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How to remove the cupped butt plate? (without damaging it)

6K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  Spitzenmeister 
#1 ·
Hello to all. I recently purchased two vet bring-backs; a 1940 BCD-4 and a 1940 G33/40.

I am trying to clean up the rifles as they have been sitting for a LONG time.

Is there a sure-fire (no pun intended) method of getting the cupped butt plate off without damaging the butt plate or the stock?

Many thanks!!

ARG
 
#2 ·
If these are true vet bring backs, I would not even mess with the buttplates, or do too much cleaning up so to speak. You may wind up damaging the true value of the guns. Also, that BCD 4 is actually a 1944 dated K98. Post some pictures so the guys will no what shape they are in and what you really need to do to them without doing too much. Just my advice.
Mike
 
#4 ·
Thaks for the response guys. I will post pics as soon as I finish cutting the stock and install the detachable sling swivels on the G33/40.

JUST KIDDING!

The reason I need to remove the butt plate is because of some rust issues. I need to treat the rust before it gets worse.

Regards, ARG
 
#5 ·
I removed mine (with care) large tip screw driver and using a small rubber mallet to give it little taps here and there and just wiggled it off. But, you have to be careful because the wood underneath might not be in that good of condition, ie..rust issues. You dont want to remove it and then take off chunks of the stock underneath, and then it wont go back on very well. Maybe you could just polish it up with it still on the stock. I heard of a guy who removed his, and found a handwritten note underneath. You never know whats under those things...
Mike
 
#8 ·
I removed mine (with care) large tip screw driver and using a small rubber mallet to give it little taps here and there and just wiggled it off.
As long as the screwdriver is used only for taking out the screws I agree....DO NOT use it to pry the plate off!!!!!!!

When working with a bringback go slowly and carefully. Take your time and do it RIGHT! Try to be in a hurry and you can seriously hurt value.

Here is what I do...
***Remove screws with a well fitting hollow ground driver.
Don't have a hollow ground driver....stop right here, and get one. Ill fitting drivers cause 98% of all buggered screws.
***If you are worried about the driver slipping from a really tight or worn screw head place some duct tape (on metal only) to protect it from a slip and scratch.
***Wood that has gotten damp or stored in a damp place like a basement or garage will often expand some. This expansion can really make a b-plate a bear to get off sometimes. If the stock is damp, or been in a damp place it might be best to let it dry a few days in a warm dry place before trying to remove buttplate. I have a shelf near my furnace I use. Not too hot though....a dry 80 degrees is nice... if you can't do that...put it on a dry surface and run a fan blowing gently on it for a day or two. Turn over every now and then to get other side. Sounds silly I know...but can help greatly if you have a damp stock.
***With screws out, try moving the plate. Sometimes they will come right off.
***If it will not budge enough to get it off by hand, but is loose, then you can try tapping the plate off, or using a punch to hook the screw hole....here is how to do both...
*****Start with a small punch or drift...Use a punch a tiny bit smaller than the screw hole in the plate. Start on the top hole as you want to work the plate off from the top due to wood shape as mentioned previously. Put the end of the punch into the top screw hole... by wiggling this it will give you some leverage to pry the plate when you put pressure on it. You are not using it to pry against the wood underneath the plate! This sometimes will be enough to get the plate moving.
If it does start to move then work the plate back and forth a little at a time to get both top and bottom of plate moving. Don't take the plate off completely from the one screw as angling the plate too far in one direction can mess up the wood.
*****If this gets the plate started but not all the way off then you may tap on it. I like to wrap the rest of the stock in several layers of an old towel to protect it from slips...get a friend to help you hold everything if need be. (Remember...go slow always!) Use a block of wood against the b-plate...never steel, or other things. The wood will not mar the metal, metal objects can mar it easily. Remember to hold the block away from the wood stock as much as possible when tapping...even wood can dent your stock! Better to tap many small blows than one big one. Again work slowly from several angles to walk the plate off from top to bottom a little at a time.
***This should get the b-plate off. It might prove interesting....sometimes makers marks, and things can be found under the plate on the wood. The inside of the plate will often be painted, and often have ink stamps and things. Have fun...work slow, and congrats on your new finds!!!:)
 
#6 ·
If you try it, note one thing, the angle of the wood as it goes into the stock. I think somebody mentioned awhile back, that as you get the cup to move back (evenly), you probably want to take the top end off first? Been awhile since I removed one on an RC. IIRC the wood protrudes more into the cup at the bottom than the top. Get my drift?
I just moved it in very small even amounts, working all around a few times, very gently.
Agree, if cup doesn’t move easily, may be better to just leave it alone. Also, IIRC, somebody broke a screw in one awhile ago. Had fun fixing it.
 
#7 ·
My "vet bringback" all matching K98 I haven't even "cleaned" up really. All I've done is swabbed the bore with some light coat of grease and that's it. I haven't even applied Howard's feed n wax to the stock. I have one of those red VCI bags to stuff the rifle in, but then I won't be able to see it and touch it. What's the purpose in having a collection you can't even see and touch?
 
#10 · (Edited)
Please do not use a screwdriver as a punch. :)

Before using much force, dribble kerosene, Kroil, that kinda' thing, into the holes where the screws were, as well as around the edges of the butt plate.
Let the solvent work for you...don't get in a hurry.

This will soften whatever cosmoline, grease, etc, that's holding the butt on.

Leave the stock standing butt down, if you're concerned with not wanting to remove oil and dirt anywhere else on the rifle.

It's also a good idea to have the stock warmed up, so as to help soften the grease.

Tapping around on the butt plate with a rubber mallet will help loosen it, and get the kero moving around.
 
#11 ·
Roger on using Kroil & my personnel favorite...Rem-Oil to soften up the possible crude underneath the buttplate. May have to do it several times, but the wait is well worth it.

I use a small to medium 'flat faced-punch', depending on how much space I have to work with. Also depending on how much space I have to use...I'll use either my brass punch or harder steel punch. I then use a small ball peen hammer or small rubber hammer to gently tap it off. May take awhile & more oil will be used, but it's worth it in the end.

I screwed up an RC stock a few years ago when I used my butt & not my head removing a welded-on (at least it felt that way) buttplate. Scrathed the stock oh-so-bad using a screwdriver. Shame on me.

Good luck & take care...........
 
#12 ·
agree and...

I agree with the ideas mentioned. When I removed a tough one, "warming" it up a bit by the heat vent for a day or two really seemed to help.
I also wore those gloves ("safety gloves"??) that are knit on the back but rubber on the fingers and palm. I was able to get a really great grip and slowly work off---it took more than one try over a day or two. I just kept it warm. Don't think I used anything to loosen up the cosmo but I may be wrong.
 
#13 ·
Kroil clarification: I wouldn't let it soak on wood and I don't know what would do to that primer paint inside the buttplate. I've gotten to where I just leave the buttplates alone really. knock off the active rust with a bronze brush and some CLP. Maybe remove the screws ONLY WITH A HOLLOW GROUND PERFECTLY FITTING SCREWDRIVER WITHOUT FORCING IT. More nice collectible firearms have been damaged by "cleaning" and "preservation" than by being left alone.
 
#16 ·
Picture of contour of wood under the cup FWIW.
BTW, this is a ‘WHITE’ glue Laminated stock after Ivan’s ‘finish’ had been removed. Color, etc. has been adjusted some to improve originally poor indoor flash pic.
 
#17 ·
In through the out door

I've always had more trouble getting them back on. I used to use a wooden stick and brass hammer to gently alternately tap it out. And the same tools/plan for the bands.
 
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