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Thread: Bedding a Mosin Nagant for accuracy

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    22

    Default Bedding a Mosin Nagant for accuracy

    I lifted this article from a Finnish Rifle Forum, there is some good info here.

    Bedding a Mosin Nagant for accuracy (pictures) The bedding tricks are quite similar for most of the bolt action military rifles.

    1) The recoil lug must be tight and even up against the recoil bolt - the recoil lug must be straightened by filing, if the contact point is not uniform.

    2) The screw holes have to be adjusted if they prevent the recoil lug from contact with the recoil bolt.

    3) Keeping the barrel from contacting the woods (the alternative method is to use oiled felt material to keep the barrel from not touching the woods, other steps are the same - this was widely used by Russians for the 91-30's).

    4) Centering the barrel in the woods - There 3 bedding points - flat area around the rear receiver screw, the flat area behind the recoil lug and the chamber area of the barrel. Use oiled pieces of paper or bedding compound to make sure that the barrel is in the correct position and the receiver will not bend when the screws are tightened.

    5) Removing extra stock material so that the magazine doesn't touch the receiver or woods.

    6) Remove wood from the stock so the receiver does not come in contact with it.

    7) Be sure that the recoil lug doesn't touch the wood when tightened.

    8) The screws have to be shortened if they are too long reaching the bottom when tightened. (My note, this is why you use shims)

    9) The front stock screw has to be tightened as tight as possible with the hand held screw driver - the rear one not quite as tight.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Rustbelt, USA
    Posts
    2,534

    Thumbs down

    Quote Originally Posted by Libertad View Post
    I lifted this article from a Finnish Rifle Forum, there is some good info here.

    Bedding a Mosin Nagant for accuracy (pictures) The bedding tricks are quite similar for most of the bolt action military rifles.

    1) The recoil lug must be tight and even up against the recoil bolt - the recoil lug must be straightened by filing, if the contact point is not uniform.

    2) The screw holes have to be adjusted if they prevent the recoil lug from contact with the recoil bolt.

    3) Keeping the barrel from contacting the woods (the alternative method is to use oiled felt material to keep the barrel from not touching the woods, other steps are the same - this was widely used by Russians for the 91-30's).

    4) Centering the barrel in the woods - There 3 bedding points - flat area around the rear receiver screw, the flat area behind the recoil lug and the chamber area of the barrel. Use oiled pieces of paper or bedding compound to make sure that the barrel is in the correct position and the receiver will not bend when the screws are tightened.

    5) Removing extra stock material so that the magazine doesn't touch the receiver or woods.

    6) Remove wood from the stock so the receiver does not come in contact with it.

    7) Be sure that the recoil lug doesn't touch the wood when tightened.

    8) The screws have to be shortened if they are too long reaching the bottom when tightened. (My note, this is why you use shims)

    9) The front stock screw has to be tightened as tight as possible with the hand held screw driver - the rear one not quite as tight.
    What is the point of this post?

    If you "lifted" this information, as you say you did. you should at minimum give credit to where you "lifted" (some might say "stole") it from.

    Do you have an opinion on the content of what you "lifted"? If so, please share it.
    Just looking...... Membership Chair, Dormont Mt. Lebanon SC, PA. Visit us at : http://www.mdi.net/dml/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    1,984

    Default

    And what "pictures"?

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