Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Minnesota ( Twin Cities )
    Posts
    851

    Default Minwax TUNG OIL Vs. boiled linseed oil

    ok, i notice you guys always say "PURE tung oil"

    i went to home depot and got Minwax tung oil ( doesnt say pure )

    from another store, Ace hardware, i got Boiled Linseed Oil. IIRC it is generic / in an ACE hardware can.

    which do i use, and which do i return?? i dont want to make the stock any darker than it currently is. i looked at that "Howards feed and wax" and it seems that its more of an outer coating, wouldnt soak in as deep as the tung oil or linseed oil...


    thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Wisconsin, the land of cow $hit and beer farts.
    Posts
    4,672

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by builttoughf250 View Post
    ok, i notice you guys always say "PURE tung oil"

    i went to home depot and got Minwax tung oil ( doesnt say pure )

    from another store, Ace hardware, i got Boiled Linseed Oil. IIRC it is generic / in an ACE hardware can.

    which do i use, and which do i return?? i dont want to make the stock any darker than it currently is. i looked at that "Howards feed and wax" and it seems that its more of an outer coating, wouldnt soak in as deep as the tung oil or linseed oil...


    thanks
    bft, if i am not mistaken i think that pure tung oil is pretty hard to find. howards is a wax so that would make it, as you said, an outer coating. i believe the tung oil is a better choice than the linseed oil. linseed oil WON'T stop water penetration with only 3 or 4 coats. its just the way it is.

    a while back, i refinished an m24/47. basically cleaned the cosmo off with acetone. it looked pretty good that way but as i kept it by the fireplace it continued to seep cosmo. once i got pretty much most of it out after a week, i cleaned it again with acetone. the original finish was there but not completely. so i 0000 steel wooled it and steamed some bad dark dents out. then i decided to use formby's tung oil on the stock. once that was done and dry i reassembled the rifle. it looks great. just remember, formby's tung oil is a varnish. but don't let that scare you off. this process was recommended by a highly regarded cabinetman who just happens to know milsurps furniture. good luck. oh, you can always try the howards first since that also is great stuff.
    Wisconsin, land of cow $hit and beer farts.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    616

    Default

    Pure tung oil is not hard to find http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

    Hardware store products that say tung oil finish actually have little tung oil in them, and are often more of a wipe-on varnish than an oil finish.

    It is important to thin the pure tung oil with turpentine, mineral spirits, or citrus solvent until it is water-thin when you put it on, and put it on with thin coats. I dip my fingers in the thinned mixture and rub it in with my bare hand. Let it dry, rub it down with 0000 steel wool, and repeat.

    More about BLO vs. tung oil from Cabinetman at http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...om/topic/16736
    Last edited by milsurp_collector; 11-26-2007 at 07:16 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Wisconsin, the land of cow $hit and beer farts.
    Posts
    4,672

    Default

    milsurp, thanks for that response with the link. yes, it can be found but not locally by me. as mentioned, the formbys tung oil is a varnish.

    also, thanks for posting the link to cabinetmans info.

    this all should help him out tremendously.

    i used the formbys per his personal email to me since i didn't want to spend the dough on the tung oil(off the net).
    Last edited by Kursk; 11-26-2007 at 07:30 PM.
    Wisconsin, land of cow $hit and beer farts.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    616

    Default

    Here is another source of pure tung oil http://www.amazon.com/Behlen-H3987-T...6127887&sr=8-1

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    MarySUKILand
    Posts
    963

    Default

    I will say stock refinishing is a personal preference. Eventually you will find what you want/like and stick with it. IMO, original military finishes were created using either what was considered the best available in their time or what was expediently available to get the job done. Substances from boiled linseed oil, ballistol to used engine appears to have been used on German k98 stocks over the years. I am sure the texture ingredients of these finishes probably changed over the years as well. What was good for the stock 55 years ago may not be good for it today.

    Must not forget the russian shellac and cosmoline added to the wood. Whichever method of finish you choose, remember that you should Not oil the barrel channel of the k98. I say this because almost all vet bring backs and non-import marked stocks have a dry unstained appearance in the barrel channel and magazine area of the stock. Good luck and enjoy your endeavor.

    I am no expert, I can just let you know how my experiences have turned out for me. I have used Howards feed-n-wax almost exclusively on my stocks for the past several years. It does protect the wood. It helps clean it and it only takes one or two coats. I like the way it high lights the woodgrain. I have also used boiled linseed, Formby's traditional "Tung Oil Finish" mixed with mineral spirits and Birchwood casey "Tru-Oil" on mauser stocks. I since removed the linseed oil and Tru-Oil from the mausers and applied the Howards. I do not like to continually sand the wood with either fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. I like the sort of rough feel of the military wood.

    To clean a milsurp stock I generally use the following procedures:

    The wood is wiped down with mineral spirits to get the gunky cosmoline and crud off. I then use denatured alcohol to remove russian shellac and paint if desired. If it is hot enough outside I set the stock out on the back deck for a series of days in the summer and keep it wiped down as cosmoline weeps out. After the stock was weeped out, I used a $25 water steamer to target nooks and crannies and raise dings in the wood as needed. Be careful to avoid cartouches. After that I used a a Very Worn and soft green pad, warm water and go-jo to clean the stock and towel dry. It amazes me how much dark crude comes off during this part. I let it dry 24/48 hours and the apply Howard's Feed-N-Wax following the instructions on the container.

    Howards Feed-n-Wax - provides a nice easy to apply non-caustic finish. Cleans and treats the wood without darkening the grain. Does provide prolong protection of the wood from the environment and is easy to repair.

    Forby's Tung Oil - 3 to 1 mix with mineral spirits. I do like the tung oil finish and kept that on my M48A yugo mauser and the M1 Garrand. It took 18 hand rubbed coats to get it to the right feel and look (allot of work and light fine rubbing with 0000 steel wool) The tung oil provides a nice look and provides the long lasting fine protective finish.
    http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/tungoil/index.asp

    Boiled Linseed oil - One or two coats is all that is needed. Darkens the wood to much for my taste. I like to see the wood grain. It can become sticky. It does not provide as much protection from the environment as other products (i.e. tung oil and Howard's feed-n-wax).

    Tru-Oil - Birchwood casey contains linseed oil but is more of a hard gloss finish than I like on military wood. I tried it on a couple of my RC's, but removed it because of the results. I have kept on my marlin 30-30 and springfield 22 sporting rifles because it has a high gloss shine that is more appropriate for them.

    I assume you have read the above forum stickies on finishes. However, another site has a stock finish forum that may provide more info in you quest for knowledge.


    http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...um/view/id/101

    I will post some pics in your other thread shortly.... Gota get some pics first and do some honey doos done...
    Last edited by rcmauser; 11-27-2007 at 01:19 AM.
    -
    well....thats my 2 cents... not worth as much as a "real" collector's nickel... but they are shiny...

    "I know...You take a chance getting up in the morning... Crossing the street... or Sticking your face in a fan..." (Frank Drebin, Police Squad)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    texas
    Posts
    43

    Default

    +1 on this website. It is the C&R Rifle Stock Cleaning and Preservation Forum. It is a great source of information on how to clean and preserve a milsurp stock.

    This is a good thread to read:


    http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...-Penetrat.html

    The moderator, Cabinetman, recommends the tung oil formerly carried by Behr. It is now called True Tone 400, carried by some Ace Hardware stores. This thread has more info. on it. This is page 4 of a 4 page thread.

    http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...ng.html?page=4

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    The Arizona Territory
    Posts
    8,284

    Default

    Formby's & Minwax Tung Oil products are intended to surface varnish & not penetrate as BLO or the old Behr TOF#600 does. Varnish is great for refinishing Grandpa's old rocking chair, or a side table, but not appropriate for a milsurp stock. If you can't find the proper Tung Oil, then stick with BLO.

    The Behr Tung Oil Finish #600 recipe was sold to Ace hardware, but many ACE stores are clueless as to what it actually is & will swear it doesn't exist. Pe persistent & maybe someone who was able to find it will post a follow up here.

    Otherwise, check with the lady at Behr, 1-800-854-0133 x3, Janice at ext 2235. This is an old phone # from when I ordered my last batch of TOF, but hopefully she can give you some better insight, or at least a new part # for the ACE product.

    The TOF # 600 by any name is about the best and easiest oil finish to use. While it is called a Tung oil finish, it is actually largely linseed oil based, with some good volatile solvents that reduce the viscosity enough to give it greater penetrating properties than BLO.

    I'd hesitate to thin & use the Minwax or Formby's stuff without extensive testing first.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    8,308

    Default

    Collector piece? Nothing but Howards, if that. Wood doesn't need "feeding". Shooter and field rifle? Tung oil. It repels moisture and water. Linseed oil is used on nothing of mine. Good Cabinetman article.
    Last edited by Hambone; 11-26-2007 at 11:16 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I do not touch the finish on my collector rifles. I have used the RealMilkPaint pure tung oil, the Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish #600 and the Formby's "low gloss" tung oil on my shooters. In my opinion, the RealMilkPaint and Behr #600 tung oils resulted in a far superior finish to that of the Formby's tung oil. Even with the "low gloss" version, the Formby's finish came out looking too shiney for my tastes. The other two tung oils resulted in a very dull military looking finish. Can't stand a shiney pimped up look on a military weapon. Ala, the Mitchell Mausers.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    MarySUKILand
    Posts
    963

    Default

    Here are some pics you asked for (sorry for the lighing, these were taken at night). These show comparisons for different finishes that I have used over the years. Hopefully they will steer you towards the Howard's. If you don't like it you can always take it off and use something else...

    - I prefer and still suggest the Howard's feed-n-wax. It works long term and does not affect the natural grain of the wood.
    - The tung oil on my yugo m48A shooter adds a smooth feel to the wood. Too smooth for milsurp, but it shoots nice and feels good in the hands.
    - The BLO stock is one I got in trade, I just don't like the dark look it has and the slight shine it has.
    - The Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is just too shiny for milsurps and this yugo M24/47 stock is an extra that sits in the corner.
    - The Danish Oil Stain finish came like this from an ebay auction. I got it to restore a horribly sporterized stock. The Danish oil stain (I have seen this product at Home Depot) has a satin gloss and I will probably get rid of it one day or redo the finish.

    Enjoy.... and I hope these help you make up your mind on the finish to use.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails stock_193.JPG   stock_196.JPG   stock_204.JPG   stock_206.JPG   Stock_207.JPG   stock_216.JPG  

    Last edited by rcmauser; 11-27-2007 at 01:57 AM.
    -
    well....thats my 2 cents... not worth as much as a "real" collector's nickel... but they are shiny...

    "I know...You take a chance getting up in the morning... Crossing the street... or Sticking your face in a fan..." (Frank Drebin, Police Squad)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    8,308

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike442 View Post
    I do not touch the finish on my collector rifles. I have used the RealMilkPaint pure tung oil, the Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish #600 and the Formby's "low gloss" tung oil on my shooters. In my opinion, the RealMilkPaint and Behr #600 tung oils resulted in a far superior finish to that of the Formby's tung oil. Even with the "low gloss" version, the Formby's finish came out looking too shiney for my tastes. The other two tung oils resulted in a very dull military looking finish. Can't stand a shiney pimped up look on a military weapon. Ala, the Mitchell Mausers.

    Thanks for that info Mike. You're right about Formby's. Which tung oils finishes do your prefer of those listed?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I prefer either the RealMilkPaint pure tung oil or the Behr Scandinavian tung oil #600. Both give about the same results. They don't look quite as good as the Howard's but yield much better wood protection. Otherwise I would just use the Howard's.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    938

    Default

    I've found 100% pure tung oil at my local hardware store.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •