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  1. #1
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    Dec 1969
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    Default What bead blast media is best for firearm refinishing?

    Over the last couple of years I've been accumulating various equipment items to play around with gun refinishing and other metal finishing projects. What I have so far is Brownell's Hot Tank Blueing system, bead blast cabinet, commercial buffer/polisher, Mauser action wrench set and 32 gallon compressor. A gunsmith friend of mine taught me to hot tank blueing when I lived in Tennessee a few years back. All I had to do was work on his blueing and I could do all mine free. My question is does anyone recommend a glass bead media for general purpose finishing? I bought some 80 grit but have not set up the equipment yet to see what kind of results I get.

    P.S. If anyone in the Tampa, FL area wants to get involved in my effort and would like to partner up with me, I'm interested.
    Last edited by LX Kid; 01-16-2010 at 06:39 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    I had a rusty bolt cleaned up a while back,with glass bead media.It worked very well for that task,anyway.

  3. #3
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    I envy "anyone" who lives in New Zealand! God's paradise!

  4. #4
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    I use 100 grit aluminum oxided for re-parkerizing parts...it gives a good etch...smooth finish and does not burn out the proof marks & numbers...anything higher than 120 grit and your park won't bite into the metal that well...
    As for blasting and re-blueing? You would rather use a chemicals to strip off the blueing...not blasting of any type...you will loose all your machining marks that shows up in the original factory blueing...
    Try soaking the parts in brake cleaner or paint stripper to remove the old blueing...and use a tooth brush & toothpicks to remove the old blueing from the metal

    happy new year
    andy
    GOD BLESS AMERICA...LOCK & LOAD

  5. #5
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    Some of the parts I'm thinking of will really need the bead blasting. I blued bead blasted work before and got some decent results on pitted metal and an unusual looking finish. Also knocked off some of the blast with wet/dry sandpaper and results really looked cool. Anyway these would be for my amuzement and personal satisfaction rather than for doing work for customers.

  6. #6
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    Blued beadblast isn't a bad looking finish..i would just use the 100-120 grit aluminum oxide...this will help keep the original markings intact...and give a more nicer looking finish, much like a military finish...rather than something that looks like parkerized over rust...aftr all, blue dulite finish is blued beadblast..

    Happy new year
    andy
    GOD BLESS AMERICA...LOCK & LOAD

  7. #7
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    I've got some 80 grit and I'll give it a try on a couple of old rusty recievers I've got laying around. My little shop is sooooooo messy I can't even walk inside. Gotta get organized so I can set up all this equipment. Time to move a lot of other hobby materials to a rental shed!

  8. #8
    Clyde's Avatar
    Clyde is offline Gold Bullet Member and Noted Curmudgeon
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    Quote Originally Posted by GUNHEEP View Post
    I use 100 grit aluminum oxided for re-parkerizing parts...it gives a good etch...smooth finish and does not burn out the proof marks & numbers...anything higher than 120 grit and your park won't bite into the metal that well...
    As for blasting and re-blueing? You would rather use a chemicals to strip off the blueing...not blasting of any type...you will loose all your machining marks that shows up in the original factory blueing...
    Try soaking the parts in brake cleaner or paint stripper to remove the old blueing...and use a tooth brush & toothpicks to remove the old blueing from the metal

    happy new year
    andy
    I've never had any luck with brake cleaner or paint stripper on anything but petroleum-based crud of one sort or another. I guess they MIGHT take the enamel some guns are painted with off, but I have my doubts - just about nothing touches the stuff Fazakerly put on my No. 4 when it was FTR'd after the War.
    Absent comrades (sound of breaking glass)

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