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Thread: 7600 remington

  1. #1

    Default 7600 remington

    Hey guys having a bit of trouble getting the bolt out of a rem 7600 pump. Im pretty sure you unscrew the pump "rod" (for lack of proper nomenclature). Then unscrew the barrel. The problem is the "rod" doesnt want to budge. Any ideas on it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Oldsmar, FL (Tampa Bay)
    Posts
    22,453

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    Bolt removal is not recommended for anything but major repairs.

    You have to remove the action tube, bolt extension, and barrel before the bolt will come out the front of the receiver. problem is the rifle is changed from the 760 and I couldn't find any directions on removing the bolt beyond that.
    I've uploaded the parts diagrams and the 760 parts list, see the thumbs at the bottom. The first is the 7600 diagram and parts list, the 2nd the 760 parts list, the 3rd the 760 parts diagram. If you can figure out the changes maybe the following will help:

    Here's the rem 760 disassembly instructions from The NRA Firearms Assembly 3:

    1. Push out the receiver pins and remove the trigger plate assembly by sliding it forward and down.

    2. Remove the magazine, press the action bar lock and open the action about half way.
    With the bottom of the rifle UP on the bench, insert a snug fitting punch or steel rod through the holes in the action tube.
    Unscrew the tube by turning the tube with the punch counterclockwise until it can be removed.

    3. Close the action and remove the barrel, bolt and bolt carrier from the receiver.

    4. Holding the bolt carrier, pull the barrel forward until the bolt releases from the barrel extension.

    5. Push the bolt carrier with the bolt, free of the action bar.

    6. Tilt the front of the fore arm downward and slide the barrel out between the action bars.

    Once disassembled, the wood forearm is held on the action bar assembly just like a Remington 870 shotgun.
    There's a round nut (Part #29) inside the front of the forearm that must be unscrewed to allow the wood to be slid forward and off the action bars.
    This requires a special spanner wrench, which can be made from a section of steel pipe, or a piece of 1/8" thick steel plate.
    WARNING: DO NOT try to unscrew the nut with pliers or poorly fitting tools, the thin action bar tube can be damaged if you slip.
    Buy or make a good tool for this.

    To reassemble, reverse.
    When reassembling the barrel into the fore end assembly, don't spread the action bars more than necessary to get the barrel bracket (Part #23) into place.

    To reassemble the barrel and bolt assemblies into the receiver, be sure the indent in the curved end of the ejection port cover (Part #34) is locked ahead of the lug on the bolt carrier. The cover must enter the small slot in the top of the receiver freely. DON'T force it.
    I swear by Jupiter Optimus Maximus .... in the army of the consul Lucius Quinctius Cincinnatus and for 10 miles around it I will not steal anything worth more than a sestertius in any one day.

  3. #3

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    Yeah I was pretty sure about the action tube thing but this one just aint budging. Thanx

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    West Texas
    Posts
    875

    Default

    The tube is VERY tight on these rifles. I have built a spanner which works well using an open end wrench that ifts over the tube. On old heavy wrench works well. Drill a 1/8" hole in the "jaws" of the wrench so that a piece of 1/8" drill rod can be slipped through the holes in the tube and the wrench. Close clearance between the wrench and the tube is the key here. Carefully clamp the receiver in padded vise jaws, near the front of the receiver so as not to crush it. Yes, I have done that! If the tube does not unscrew with a moderate amount ot effort, 30 to 40 Ft Pounds, apply heat to the bottom of the tube where it screws onto the receiver stud. Some models may have Loctite or nylock on these threads. I have been successful with this tool. PM me if you want pictures of the tool.

  5. #5

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