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Thread: Best powder to use in 5.56

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    Default Best powder to use in 5.56

    Hey guys, just getting into reloading and I have about 1500 rds of 5.56 brass to prime and load. I prefer the 62gr projectile ss109 and want opinions for the best powder to use that will yield a nice result and the measure. Whats the experts thoughts? I like to plink but I also like to shoot in some matches so I want an overall accurate load. Whats the call on what powder I should get and how much to load? I found that I have 1000 CCI small rifle primers so I think I'm set there but heard that magnum primers are better suited that are harder to knock down the slam fire issue. I can get wolf hardened primers for semi auto's pretty cheaply. Advice?
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    Vic,
    I bought 10K of the Wolf Magnum SR primers for the same reason. As you might already know, these are not true magnum primers, but simply primers with the hardened cups, along milspec lines. That's another avenue to explore. Here's Sierra's load data which doesn't answer the question of accuracy, but gives a range of options:

    http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/sierra223ar.pdf

    There are more variables going into this like, how long is your barrel? What's the twist rate? The ammo and reloading forum at M4carbine.net is another great source.
    Pat
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    Vic.. the twist on your barrel is going to affect the accuracy of the weight of the bullet.. faster twists like 1 tiwst in 7" is going to favor the 62 grainers, slower twist is going to favor the 55 grainers.. that not a written in stone rule because the atmospheric conditions will affect things as well.. I have a 1 in 7 that will shoot 55 grainers on hot days in a tolerable fashion but will keyhole every shot on cold damp days for example...and the early AR's and some varmit rigs go up to 1 twist in 12 or 14.

    For plinking you can get away with pulled milslurp bullets and not segregating cases by weight.. for match work you need match bulllets made to tighter tolerances and everything gets weighed and grouped by weight. You will also want at least a match trigger maybe other upgrades on the rifle itself.

    I use WC846 pull down on my 62 grain loads... but I have a buddy that gets really good results with IMR 3031 of all things... RL7 is good for lighter bullets and RL15 is good for 60 grain on up. Barrel lenght matters if you are going to use 3031 or 4895.. you will want longer barrels for those... carbine lenght does better with the WC846..

    .223/5.56 comes in so many twist and barrel lenghts it is almost impossible to say what load will may do well without specifics...
    Here is a good article on what has worked for others.. http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammunit...06/index2.html

    Edit okay technically it isn;t the weight of the bullet that matters for twist as much as the lenght to diameter ratio...

    http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellb.htm#stabilize
    Last edited by AmmoSgt; 05-12-2010 at 01:58 AM.

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    Vic, you didn't mention what type of weapon you are loading for.
    I have only used one powder in my mini 14 with good results, Win 748, so I can't offer you much of a choice in powder selection. 748 has worked well enough for me, but I don't shoot match. My Mini has a 1 in 7 twist and I have used 748 with a near max load of 25grs. with CCI SR Magnum primers under the Serria MatchKing 52gr, HPBT with good results. It shoots 55gr. bullets okay, with reasonable accuracy for paper punching also. I also have some Serria GameKing, 65gr. Spitzer BT but have not tried them as of yet. Bought them because of my faster barrel twist. But I can tell you one thing between the MatchKIng and GameKing bullets. The GameKing are much more consistant in length, diameter and weight. If wanting to shoot match, you might give that a thought when selecting bullets. Waiting on some Hornady 55gr. FBSP to try. Never tried a FB bullet in my mini before.
    Either way, since you are just starting out into handloading, please start low and work up. Once you develope a load that works well you will then have to weigh and measure every case, charge and bullet to get the most from your handloads. Flash hole deburring will also help your loads to be more consistant. I believe every American commercial case is punched for the flash hole and it leaves a burr inside the case (At least everyone I have run across has). If you cut it out, you get much more uniform ignition
    If you don't know your weapons twist rate you can use the tight patch method. Insert the cleaning rod through the muzzle With your bolt locked open, screw the slotted tip on the rod in the breech with a larger patch than you normally use for cleaning. Pull the patch into the bore a little and stop. Mark the rod at the muzzle with a small mark. Watch carefully and pull the patch through the bore until you see the small mark on the rod make one full turn. Measure from the mark to the muzzle and that will give you your twist. With one complete turn of the rod, if the distance between the mark and the muzzle measures 7", you have a 1in7 twist. Measuring 9" you have a 1in9, etc. Of course you may know all of this already, but just thought I'd throw it out there.
    Take care, be safe. I am sure you will enjoy your new hobby.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
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    I find my best accuracy using H4895 powder, but haven't been able to get it lately. I have done well with both H4198 and Ramshot's TAC. TAC is a fine-grained ball powder that meters very nicely, giving good consistency. For plinking and practice, I favor the Armscor 62 grain bullets in the 500-piece bulk pack from MidwayUSA. It is not steel-core like SS109, but for my needs it does fine and is cheap.
    My gun is the Bushmaster M17S Bullpup with a 1-in-9 twist 21 inch barrel.

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    the two powders I have used have been IMR4064 and varget. I have only loaded 55 gr FmJ's but have had good sucess with mixed brass, CCi milspec primers and trimmed to uniform length. I don't have my data in front of me but with the varget I was using 25 grains with lee FCD in a seperate from seating.

    Jim

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    In my experience shooting NRA Highpower with the AR(I'm assuming thats what you'll be using) One bullet that is a real sleeper and cheaper than any"match" bullet is the Serria 60 gr HP and will hold its own at 300 yd line with any of them . As mentioned already powders like 4895, TAC, Varget and my favorite with this bullet and heavier is Alliant Reloader 15. This bullet along with others of similar weight will shoot fine in a 1:7 and 1:9 twist barrels


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    I have had consistently good results using AA 2230 (specifically designed for 5.56 loading) and CCI 41 primers....and they are magnum strength.
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    I plan to shoot them in a SIG 556 Classic with a 1-7 and a 16" barrel and for matches a A2 with 20" heavy barrel and a 1-9 twist.

    I've shot Wolf 62 gr BT out of all of my 5.56' caliber weapons with strong results and they range from 16 to 17" inch barrels with 1-7 and 1-9 twist rates in the likes of the HK93 and FNC etc.. and a M4 I built. It shoots well in the A2 also. I'm not making cloverleafs but its not an issue for me to keep them in the high scoring rings when I do my job.

    My general purpose is not Camp Perry matchs- Hell I cant see 600yds for petes sake, but my local rifle club matches at 100m in a military rifle match and a practice season or....20 that wont kill my pocketbook. So what I am looking for is a good powder choice for general loading that will yeild consistent accuracy based on your expereicned recommendations. Being a newbie always ask your buddies first and pick some brains. I'm going to order the Wolf hardened primers-my 900 CCI 400 primers may be too soft?
    I'll also order 500 rds of 55gr bullets in the canalure BT and 500 of the SS109 type as well to have a spread. I understand that that the pwder may have to be tweaked for results and could load say 50 of a spread with minor variations to find the sweet spot. Yes? The last hurdle is what powder to order that I can get decent results with. I'm looking at Weidners web site. Am I in the right place?
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    I have a Remington Model 700 Varmint special that loves 55 and 60 grain bullets with compressed charges of IMR 3031. Haven't shot the rifle in years, but I remember that the ammo was a pain to load with 3031 because I had to rattle every case to get the weight in. That being said, the rifle would then put shots in the same hole all day long. I was using old mixed lot military brass and Hornaday bullets.
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    IMR4895 is what I use when reloading for my AR-15 target rifle.

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    Decided to go with the Vihtavuori N133.
    Bought 1k of 55gr and 500 SS109 62gr.
    1k wolf hard primers. I'll use the remaining CCI 400's with the 62grs.
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    Guys. What is all this talk about "hard primers"? I've used Remington 7 1/2 and 6 1/2 and CCI 400's and never had an issue. I always load my rifle from the magazine though. Am I missing something here? Another question. Weighing cases? I suppose this is to insure the capacity is as uniform as possible to get equal pressure from each case? It should be pointed out for the new guys that before you start doing this you should have all the same lot of brass. Just because one case weighs the same as another doesn't mean it's internal capacity is the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vic View Post
    Decided to go with the Vihtavuori N133.
    Bought 1k of 55gr and 500 SS109 62gr.
    1k wolf hard primers. I'll use the remaining CCI 400's with the 62grs.
    N133 is an excellent choice for 5.56 loads.....the only downside is the price.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motor View Post
    Guys. What is all this talk about "hard primers"? I've used Remington 7 1/2 and 6 1/2 and CCI 400's and never had an issue. I always load my rifle from the magazine though. Am I missing something here? Another question. Weighing cases? I suppose this is to insure the capacity is as uniform as possible to get equal pressure from each case? It should be pointed out for the new guys that before you start doing this you should have all the same lot of brass. Just because one case weighs the same as another doesn't mean it's internal capacity is the same.
    Well of course that is true about the same lot of brass. But if every case is trimmed to the same length, and weighs the same, even with different headstamps, the only other factor is the difference in hardness as some do vary. And they do vary. For match shooting, it is always best to have all the same headstamp cases. Then sort them by weight. By lot would be even better.
    There is a lot of variables when it comes to match shooting your own handloads. Read some of the stuff from Sinclair. Wow, these guys really go above and beyond.
    Some of the tools and stuff Sinclair sells, I know I will never need. But they use them to put their rounds in a dime size at 100 yrds or so. These guys are shooting for extreme accuracy. Everything they can do to achive that, they will try.
    If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.

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    And in that time when men decide and feel safe to call the war insane, take one moment to embrace those gentle heroes you left behind.
    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
    Well, all right. Maybe just this once.

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    Armyrat, I agree and I like to really shoot my guns-not just reach around with a finger to touching the trigger while the rifle is secured in a ransom rest and only my finger tip ever touches the gun. I've seen guys like this and it kills me.

    Expert the cost was only 2-5 dollars more for a lb than the others. Most of the powders mentioned were out of stock or backordered so I went with what I could get and the best option.
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    The 223 Rem is a pretty forgiving cartridge. Lots of powders work very well.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vic View Post
    Armyrat, I agree and I like to really shoot my guns-not just reach around with a finger to touching the trigger while the rifle is secured in a ransom rest and only my finger tip ever touches the gun. I've seen guys like this and it kills me.

    Expert the cost was only 2-5 dollars more for a lb than the others. Most of the powders mentioned were out of stock or backordered so I went with what I could get and the best option.
    I hear Ya'. I have no use for a ransom. I think they serve a purpose, to show what each individual weapon is capable of, but it serves no purpose in showing what they will do in your, or someone elses hands. And face it. When you're target shooting, or hunting, you ain't gonna' be using a ransom. It's all about you and the weapon.
    I once gave a thought into getting a Ransom Rest. After further thought, I questioned why. All it would show me is how well the weapon shoots in a Lock Down Type position. Something I know I can never achive, no matter how hard I try. What would it do if I couldn't achive the same results as the Ransom? Get frustrated in my shooting? It's good to know what the weapon is capable of but, you need to know what you are capable of with it. Two people may not be able to achive the same accuracy from a given rifle or pistol, no matter what ransom test results show for the weapon.
    Reminds me of one time as a teen, when I was working in a machine shop. Just the resident go-fer, and kept the shop clean. One of the guys there ran a forklift and I used to spot for him picking up pallets of stuff and moving them in and out of the shop. After a few weeks he showed me how the controls worked and asked me if I thought I could do it. I said yeah, but I won't know until I get my hands on the controls. He looked at me and smiled, and let me give it a try. I did okay after awhile.
    I prefer hands on experience.
    Last edited by armyrat1970; 05-14-2010 at 04:26 AM.
    If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.

    I reckon so. I guess we all died a little in that damn war.

    And in that time when men decide and feel safe to call the war insane, take one moment to embrace those gentle heroes you left behind.
    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
    Well, all right. Maybe just this once.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vic View Post
    Expert the cost was only 2-5 dollars more for a lb than the others. Most of the powders mentioned were out of stock or backordered so I went with what I could get and the best option.
    It's a great choice for 5.56, no doubt. You are lucky to have those good prices. Vihtavuori N133 is about $8 a pound more per pound than comparable powders in the stores here.
    Last edited by The Expert; 05-15-2010 at 03:18 AM.
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    One thing I have learned when loading for the .223 is; 24 grains of whatever will work.

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    Well as a FNG I bought 1lb and paid the 25.00 hazmat fee. It seems I'll need about 4lbs for 1500-2000 rds?
    The powder was 24.95 per lb.

    Any recommendations with this powder in terms of loads?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vic View Post
    Well as a FNG I bought 1lb and paid the 25.00 hazmat fee. It seems I'll need about 4lbs for 1500-2000 rds?
    The powder was 24.95 per lb.

    Any recommendations with this powder in terms of loads?
    What powder? N133?

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    Vic .... all is not lost... this is still more art than science... you are going to have to work up a load , starting 10% down and make small , usually 5 cartridge test batches at progressively high powder charges , I do mine in 0.3 grain increments to find the most accurate load... I shoot each batch of 5 rounds from lowest charge to highest on a seperate target...marking each target with the load data as I go.. then I line up all the targets in sequence... you should see a pattern of the size of the groups getting smaller, then larger, then smaller, in a kind of sine wave way. You need to focus in on the two adjacent smallest groups and reload 5 rounds starting at the lightest load of those two groups , I go to 0.1 grain increments at this point and load 0.1 grain above the higher load of those two targets and repeat the 5 shot per target methodology with this second batch of loads to find and then confirm the optium accurate load... HOWEVER

    There have been times when I could not get a satisfactory load with a given powder and bullet combination.. so I would have to change one or the other and start all over...maybe only having 1 pound of powder could be a blessing.

    For future reference there are 7000 grains of powder to a pound. figuring a 22 grain load you should get 318 loads per pound.

    A more concrete example... lets say the book lists a starting load of 19.5 grains of N-133 for a 60 gr bullet and a Max of 22.2... ( or alternately, depending on the book, some will say "do not exceed 22.2" grains in which case you start down 10% at about 20 grains) Starting at 19.5 grains you would load 5 cartridges each with 19.5 , 19.8, 20.1, 20.4, up to, but not to exceed, 22.2 grains.. should give you 10 groups of 5 cartridges each .. you fire each group in sequence at a seperate target ( I run my targets off at the local copy shop for about 7 cents each in reem lots, lots of free online noncopyrighted targets you can download as masters , so take a minute and find a target that you like.. you will be seeing a lot of it if you get into reloading LOL) and record the data on the target..... okay lets say the two smallest groups were on targets of the 4th groups the 20.4 gr loads and the 5th group the 20.7 gr loads.. I would then load 20.4, 20.5,2.06,20.7, and 20.8 5 cartridges each and shoot 5 more targets... I would compare the second batch 20.4 and 20.7 with the original 20.4 and 20.7 and if that looked close to the same I would then use the load that gave me the smallest group and have some confidence that it would perform well.. but I would also record temp and humidity for that day and if I found that load not performing well at some later date I would check to see if it ws radically colder or hotter, wetter or drier as some powders are sensitive to those factors , other times loads can be affected by large changes in altitude as well.

    Anyway.. thats how I find the best load for my rifles.. and believe me, each rifle is different.. I have two unissued sequentially numbered No4 Mk2 Enfields that I shoot and handload for.. and they don't like the same loads.. I assume the chambers were cut a little differently within the allowable tolerance and using necksized fireformed brass there is enough difference in case capacity to throw off the load one to the other... It is all part of the romance of finding the best load for your individual rifle.
    Last edited by AmmoSgt; 05-17-2010 at 11:23 PM.

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    Excellent info for the beginner which I am. God I love my forums!!! And you guys and gals for helping me figure this out. It's daunting when you start out.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vic View Post
    God I love my forums!!!
    We love your forums too, Vic. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Vic View Post
    It's daunting when you start out.
    As a newbie myself, that's absolutely correct.
    Oft, in the stilly night,
    Ere slumber's chain has bound me,
    Fond memory brings the light
    Of other days around me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zippyhuntin View Post
    We love your forums too, Vic. Thanks!



    As a newbie myself, that's absolutely correct.
    Ditto on the forums.
    When I first started into handloading I never had a clue there were forums like this on the WEB. Needless to say I have had my share of blunders along the way. Crushed cases when applying to much crimp or trying to crimp a bullet that didn't even have a channelure. Once by mistake tried to seat a LP primer in a 357 case. Needless to say that messed up the priming tool a little. Loaded some 45's once and it was some time gone by before I was getting ready to go to the range with some of them. Realized I forgot to mark the baggies I put them in and could not remember what powder I had used, AA#5 or #7. Had never tried the #7, but knew I was wanting to at somepoint. To be on the safe side, I pulled them all apart and compared the powders under a magnifying glass. Realized it was all AA#5 and had to reload them all again. Made sure I marked the bags with a label concerning powder, charge, case trim length, bullet/weight and OAL. Once I starting finding gunrelated forums dealing with so many different aspects of them, I was in Hog Heaven.
    But as one word of caution. Sometimes these forums can just be an easy way around reading,
    and understanding a good handloading manual. A lot of my learning process came from reading, and mistakes. LOL
    Warren
    Last edited by armyrat1970; 05-21-2010 at 04:36 AM.
    If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.

    I reckon so. I guess we all died a little in that damn war.

    And in that time when men decide and feel safe to call the war insane, take one moment to embrace those gentle heroes you left behind.
    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
    Well, all right. Maybe just this once.

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    Quote Originally Posted by armyrat1970 View Post
    Ditto on the forums.
    When I first started into handloading I never had a clue there were forums like this on the WEB. Needless to say I have had my share of blunders along the way. Crushed cases when applying to much crimp or trying to crimp a bullet that didn't even have a channelure. Once by mistake tried to seat a LP primer in a 357 case. Needless to say that messed up the priming tool a little. Loaded some 45's once and it was some time gone by before I was getting ready to go to the range with some of them. Realized I forgot to mark the baggies I put them in and could not remember what powder I had used, AA#5 or #7. Had never tried the #7, but knew I was wanting to at some point. To be on the safe side, I pulled them all apart and compared the powders under a magnifying glass. Realized it was all AA#5 and had to reload them all again. Made sure I marked the bags with a label concerning powder, charge, case trim length, bullet/weight and OAL. Once I starting finding gun related forums dealing with so many different aspects of them, I was in Hog Heaven.
    But as one word of caution. Sometimes these forums can just be an easy way around reading,
    and understanding a good handloading manual. A lot of my learning process came from reading, and mistakes. LOL
    Warren
    +10 on that Warren. I still find new information just about every time I read one of my manuals. There was a thread a month or so ago we all remember "What the heck happened" where I member had cases collapse and we all speculated for a week or two as to what caused it. Then looking through my Speer manual I accidentally stumbled on to it. I've had that manual since day #1 it came with my RCBS Rock Chucker Combo. That was very long ago. Obviously I never read it before. I have a Hodgdon manual and it's got a section full of great info on black powder/muzzleloader shooting. Point is. Any one of us with a manual, and it doesn't matter if it's Hornady's, Speer's, Lee or whatever owes it to themselves to take time and read through it. Not all at one time just a section or 2 a week. I just got Lee's newest book. My latest one before it is nearly 20 years old. Again, different author (my first Lee manual) and some good info. I must admit saying to myself at times when reading a new thread "why don't he just look in the manual"
    Motor

  28. #28
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    My latest loads for 5.56 and .223Rem are using the Wolf SRM primers - Wolf advertises them as having the harder cups, and being particularly suitable for 5.56X45 and .30 Carbine loading. They work fine for me!
    My "Bushpup" will go 'rock&roll' using Winchester 45 grain Varmint ammo, so I avoid Win primers in these loads. CCI and Federal primers run fine in it too.

  29. #29
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    In over 33 years of reloading for an old Mini-14 & some AR's, my favorite powders are IMR-4198 and BL-C2. In extensive testing when I got my first Mini in 1977, I found that these 2 powders provided the best pressure at the gas port to smoothly and reliably cycle the action. Everything else I tried didn't always cycle as well nor perform as accurately.

  30. #30
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    I have done a lot of reloading for various .223 rifles....mainly I used Australian defense industries AR 2206 (equivalent to BL-C2) because it was readily available and seemed to shoot very well for me.My use was shooting rabbits/hares etc more than target shooting.Also used to make my own jacketed bullets for the .223.....they were inexpensive to make and quite suitable for my purposes (small game),used to make either a 55 grain hollowpoint or around a 62 grain pointed soft point,using fired .22 rimfire cases.Left to right....reload with factory 55 grain Fmj,a home made 55 gr hollow point,a home made 62 gr soft point.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jacket223.jpg  

  31. #31
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    You may want to buy some CCI #41 primers as they are specifically made for military rifles. http://www.cci-ammunition.com/produc...ers.aspx?id=30

    I had some problems with doubling and slamfires in two of my rifles (Daewoo K1A1 and Norinco 84S-1) when using the CCI400 primers. The CCI #41 primers are less sensitive and fixed that problem. Powder Valley has them from time to time but they sell out fast.

    BTW, I've used thousands of the CCI400 primers in my AR15 rifles and in my M1 Carbine and have never had any issues with slam fires or doubling.

  32. #32
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    I recommend the Speer reloading manual as having the best written step-by-step reloading instructions.
    Geal ‘us dearg a suas!

    Member since Gunboards v1.0

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by caerlonie View Post
    I have done a lot of reloading for various .223 rifles....mainly I used Australian defense industries AR 2206 (equivalent to BL-C2) because it was readily available and seemed to shoot very well for me.My use was shooting rabbits/hares etc more than target shooting.Also used to make my own jacketed bullets for the .223.....they were inexpensive to make and quite suitable for my purposes (small game),used to make either a 55 grain hollowpoint or around a 62 grain pointed soft point,using fired .22 rimfire cases.Left to right....reload with factory 55 grain Fmj,a home made 55 gr hollow point,a home made 62 gr soft point.
    caerlonie. That's some nice work on 'dem bullets. Maybe you could give a tutorial on how you made the jackets for them. Would be good to know.
    Warren
    If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.

    I reckon so. I guess we all died a little in that damn war.

    And in that time when men decide and feel safe to call the war insane, take one moment to embrace those gentle heroes you left behind.
    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
    Well, all right. Maybe just this once.

  34. #34
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    ARat Corbin makes a swag kit for .224 cal bullets you can use on a "regular" reloading press http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=BSD

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoSgt View Post
    ARat Corbin makes a swag kit for .224 cal bullets you can use on a "regular" reloading press http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=BSD
    Thats ALOT of 22 cal bullets for $783.00!!!! But I guess if you had some friends split the cost 4 ways or something like that it would take the sting out of it. A fellow shooter at our highpower league shot a 200 yd reduced match with these and they do loose nothing in the accuracy department at shorter distances.

    Tim
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

    LETS GO PENS !!!!!!!!!!!!!

  36. #36
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    Hey .. if you make 15,660 .224 bullets assuming the .22 cases are free and you are using about a penny's worth of lead, and don't worry about how much your time is worth, or the cost of running the melting pot , then you are getting your bullets for about 6 cents each. LOL

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoSgt View Post
    ....I use WC846 pull down on my 62 grain loads... but I have a buddy that gets really good results with IMR 3031 of all things... RL7 is good for lighter bullets and RL15 is good for 60 grain on up. Barrel lenght matters if you are going to use 3031 or 4895.. you will want longer barrels for those... carbine lenght does better with the WC846..
    http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellb.htm#stabilize
    Back in the days when I was messing with the Stoner rifle, IMR 3031 was the choice for standard AR15s. It was the powder that the cartridge was designed around, and the one the rifle was benchmarked for before MacNamara threw his weight around and made 'em use a ball powder with far too much flash retardant.

    IIRC, the ammo for the little XM177E2 was, most of it, loaded with IMR 4198.
    Pistol keeps me safe.
    Shotgun keeps me fed.
    Rifle keeps me free.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by RU shooter View Post
    Thats ALOT of 22 cal bullets for $783.00!!!! But I guess if you had some friends split the cost 4 ways or something like that it would take the sting out of it. A fellow shooter at our highpower league shot a 200 yd reduced match with these and they do loose nothing in the accuracy department at shorter distances.

    Tim
    Really.
    I was in WallyWorld yesterday and they had several boxes of 223 Remington, 55gr. MC for just under $9 a box. If I figure this right, I can buy 1740 cartridges, for $783. Which would put the cost of the fully loaded cartridge, with reloadable case, at around $.45. But no work involved.
    Splitting the cost 4 or 5 ways would of course make it more appealing but, I don't know anyone that would go that route with me around here. To rich for my blood.
    Sooner or later, I'm gonna have to start casting for the 223, with a $20 Lee mold.
    That's probably when I will give ladle casting a try.
    If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.

    I reckon so. I guess we all died a little in that damn war.

    And in that time when men decide and feel safe to call the war insane, take one moment to embrace those gentle heroes you left behind.
    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
    Well, all right. Maybe just this once.

  39. #39
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    A tutorial?.Sure.I made this card up years ago to show a friend how it is done.I paid $250 for the kit from Corbin's many years ago.....for $800 it would not be worth it to me to get another.The most important part to avoid reject's is to properly anneal the cases.Get then glowing red hot for at least 5 seconds or so,that makes all the difference to avoid splits in the bullet's nose when it is formed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jacket223 002.jpg  

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by caerlonie View Post
    A tutorial?.Sure.I made this card up years ago to show a friend how it is done.I paid $250 for the kit from Corbin's many years ago.....for $800 it would not be worth it to me to get another.The most important part to avoid reject's is to properly anneal the cases.Get then glowing red hot for at least 5 seconds or so,that makes all the difference to avoid splits in the bullet's nose when it is formed.
    Seems simple enough, but damn expensive.
    If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.

    I reckon so. I guess we all died a little in that damn war.

    And in that time when men decide and feel safe to call the war insane, take one moment to embrace those gentle heroes you left behind.
    Quote Originally Posted by MEJ1990TM View Post
    Well, all right. Maybe just this once.

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