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Question of parts interchange on 1860 Army, Uberti to Pietta

7K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  edteach 
#1 ·
As posted earlier. I have a nickel 1860 Pietta.

I found out the frame is brass on this particular nickeled model.

I would like to change the case to a steel frame if I could find one.

One of the members has a steel frame parts gun, Uberti 1860 Army. I need to find out if I can use it for the frame.

Will the frame of the Uberti accept the barrel and grips etc. from the Pietta.

Can I use the frame of the Uberti and all the rest of the parts from my new Pietta?

From past experience, I found the Piettas to be different in many aspects with the same model made by Uberti.

ie. the grips are usually contoured different.

I need some advice from someone who has done some work with the two differrent makers of the same model revolvers.

TIA
 
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#3 ·
I agree w/ Wolfgang on this. The brass frame is quite servicable if loads are kept within reason. The end cost of making this change will equal or exceed the price of a new ( Blued) steel frame model. Better to keep looking for a nickled Pietta frame and even then be prepared to do a lot of fitting.
JDD
 
#4 · (Edited)
I have given up on the possibility of changing the brass frame only. Not cost productive. I suspect the the parts will not interchange between Uberti and Pietta.
However I think I will get a price on the nickel , steel frame, parts gun offered and see if I can restore it.

If you guys don't know the difference in brass and steel frames. There is not much I can say.
Other than, brass framed guns are not compatible with my style of shooting.

I have had several of both types over the years.

BTW- I bought one of Cabela's 1860 case hardened frame on sale for $200. Exc. buy.
 
#5 ·
If you guys don't know the difference in brass and steel frames. There is not much I can say.
How on Earth did you ever draw that conclusion?

Wasn't it you who said in the first thread.....

I have a 1860 Army in nickel

I discovered that the frame is brass. I didn't know brass could be nickeled over.
While I wasn't involved until now, I take offense in the fact you are offending the many who have tried to help you get sorted out.
 
#7 · (Edited)
What offends me is people who butt in and cut and paste my comments. Then interpet them to a neg.
You have not contributed anything of value. Why are you here on my thread.?
Are you now spokesperson for other posters on this thread?
Take a pass and move on, if you don't like what you see here.

If the wording is offensive to the two that posted about brass frames, I'm sorry if my wording was not what I intended to convey. Certainly, not trying to be offensive in response to you trying to help.

I have shot loose several brass framed revolvers using 20 grains.

I didn't think an explanation was called for.

I shoot long range nowdays and use max loads in my Rogers & Spencer, Uberti, Old Army and others. Now I'm going to try Piettas with long barrels.
It is my style. Short range shooting has become boring.
I shoot all my hand guns to the max range possible.



I am not sorry to anyone that butts in with cut and paste neg. interpetations of my comments on my thread.

I have solved this current problem with the nickel revolvers and if JB has any more gripes about how I word things. Take them to the minefield or PM.
I'm available.

I wil report this to the mod. and let him decide who is trolling and offensive here.
 
#13 ·
If shooting full loads . . . . then steel framed revolvers are a necessity . . . I started out with a brass framed '58 Remington by Pietta . . . and I only once loaded up 15 gr. of BLACK with filler . . . I fired two rounds and pulled the rest, . . . went to full loads . . . and got me some steel framed guns before that first one had got shot loose ( only put about 100 rounds thru it ) . . . I did get another brass framed one ( on sale cheap ) just cuz the first one was "lonely" and needed a "companion".

Anyhow . . . to go back to the origin of this thread, . . . swapping parts between Italian replica manufacturers isn't practical, . . . and if shooting full loads is your thing, . . . ( like it is MINE ) then it is better to retire the brass framed pistols or sell them and go to steel frames. Simple.
 
#14 · (Edited)
If shooting full loads . . . . then steel framed revolvers are a necessity . . . I started out with a brass framed '58 Remington by Pietta . . . and I only once loaded up 15 gr. of BLACK with filler . . . I fired two rounds and pulled the rest, . . . went to full loads . . . and got me some steel framed guns before that first one had got shot loose ( only put about 100 rounds thru it ) . . . I did get another brass framed one ( on sale cheap ) just cuz the first one was "lonely" and needed a "companion".

Anyhow . . . to go back to the origin of this thread, . . . swapping parts between Italian replica manufacturers isn't practical, . . . and if shooting full loads is your thing, . . . ( like it is MINE ) then it is better to retire the brass framed pistols or sell them and go to steel frames. Simple.
Exactly.

I should have been more clear as to my intention and purpose.

I found out the hard way about the brass framed revolvers.

I do have an 1851 replica with a brass frame that I bought on a sale from Cabela, I don't shoot it.
But keep it for looks and it is balanced perfectly and is a nice looking replica.
It was under $200.

I have quite a number of BP revolvers and buy them whenever I find a good deal.

I have found the Walkers to be too heavy, but the Ruger Old Army heavy hitter is OK.

I also bought a Rogers and Spencer which takes large loads and I really like it.
I have been selling off my milsurps to finance the BP.

THe light loads just don't do it for me.
I like to shoot the max loads they will handle.

I normally don't like "flashy" guns, but the 1860 in nickel, I like. When I bought it, I didn't know it had a brass frame and I didn't think to ask.

I agree the changing parts between Pietta and Uberti is not a good idea.

Thanks for you input.
 
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