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Thread: Trigger work

  1. #1

    Default Trigger work

    Other than buying a Timney trigger or any other custom trigger.............has anyone done any 'work' with the original triggers to make them smoother, etc.? If so...then what?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    Austn Tx
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    3,963

    Default

    The cheapest and fastest way to improve the trigger (some, not a lot) is to substitute a spring from the bolt shroud detent pin.
    Just kickin it, slurping on a Brawndo and tuning up the Killdozer...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Pa...State of Corruption
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    Default

    Try a search of the K98 Forum. Use searches with different key words, ie; mauser trigger, trigger, k98 trigger adjustment, trigger polishing, etc.
    I know there are some threads on here that went into trigger work on how to make them better. chasdev's idea was one of them.
    Good luck.

  4. #4

    Default

    OK guys, thanks for your input.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
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    Default

    Very simple and easy to modify..... (However this should be done at your own risk)!

    Any metal removal needs to be done judiciously! You can't put it back once you take it away.

    I usually clip 1 1/2 coils off the coil spring that fits in the "cup" (bears on the receiver) THen I polish the sear engagement with fine files, a stone and and/or a cratex cone point on a dremel tool. Lightly lube contact points and hinge pin areas with a good moly or teflon grease (TW-25B is my preference)

    Ensure the trigger isn't dragging on the trigger guard assembly. Use a file to "clearance" the slot in the trigger guard if necessary.

    If the trigger still has too much creep, you can remove about a thousandth at a time from the top of the sear until it feels right.
    THe height measurement that seems to work best for me on various mausers is about .050" measured from the bottom to top of the sear....

    On the bolt, just make sure the sear engagement point is smooth and square. Don't change it's height.-- Do a bump test and ensure the rifle won't accidentally fire if dropped. That's should do it!

    Make sure you get all the crud out of the bolt! Lotsa folks will clean the rest of the rifle, but never take the bolt apart!

    I've also seen a trigger adjusted using thin brass shims. I have a Yugo Field Expediant Sniper done like that. THe first stage was shimmed up tight so that , in effect, you had a single stage trigger. The sear engagement was adjust up with shims to a 3 lb pull. I'll bet that was one tedious job. It's pretty amazing though. At first I thought it had an aftermarket trigger in it!
    Last edited by ak_milsurp; 03-07-2011 at 08:01 PM.
    AK_MILSURP
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    "Remember the Range day, And keep it holy. May the light of the Holy Tracer guide thy aim"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Default

    The cheapest, fastest way to improve a K98 trigger is to completely disassemble the trigger group and thoroughly degrease and clean every part. A lot of them have dried grease, dirt, and other crap in the works, especially the spring and spring cup. Polishing the sear surfaces without removing any metal helps, too. Some people like to remove the first "hump" to make a single stage trigger, but this can be confusing if you shoot a lot of K98s and don't remember which ones have the "shaved" trigger.

  7. #7

    Default

    Once more! Thanks for the info' ! It is appreciated!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Somehow I actually like the 2 stage trigger feel. The 1st stage gets ready for the 2nd stage and makes the trigger safe, the 2nd stage is what actually affects the group. To improve the 2nd stage, will need to work on the sear engagement.
    Last edited by HankC; 03-12-2011 at 08:38 AM.

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