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  1. #1
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    Default Husqvarna Vapenfabriks a.b. 30-06

    Hello everyone,

    I decided that I wanted to start hunting this year and my Grampa stated that he had a 30-06 I could have as long as I come and pick it up. So I made the short flight from Edmonton, AB to Abbotsford, BC (Canada) and obtained the following rifle: (see "rifle.jpg")

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    It is the following:
    Husqvarna Vapenfabriks a.b. 30-06
    Weaver K4-C3 scope
    Leupold ring mount
    SN: 220746 A

    Now, I don't want to know how much it's worth. In it's current condition (See glued crack in the stock of the bottom-right photo) I'm pretty sure I could put in 300-400 dollars into getting a new stock and it'd be worth 300-400. Besides that it's a rifle from my grampa, that my gramma gave to him. (see "floorplate.jpg")

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    Instead what I want to know is all about it. What year was it made, what the model number, what kind of action is it and any other info I should know about this thing. I'm not a gun guy (yet) but as whitetails are pretty common around where I live I'm hoping to take some home with me in November. I've already decided that I'm gonna pick up a Leupold VX-3 2.5x8 36mm scope to replace the current Weaver, so yeah... What else should I know about this thing?

    I appreciate all of your responses.

  2. #2
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    First of all, the scope that is on it, is all that is needed. This rifle does not need a new scope just for the sake of putting on a new scope. If the wrist break is properly repaired, ie: good glue job with acraglass of equivelent, the stock will not break there again. The last stock I re-finished, cost the owner $600.00 - for the re-finish. He wanted oil and wanted it to look like as it did orginally from Browning- ie: like a plastic piano finish. A replacement 98 Mauser walnut stock might be available from someone like Brownells(used to have them)easy if you lived in the States. Sometimes difficult to get conceived 'gun parts' over the line but OK if the outfit has the US export permit. You don't need a permit to get a stock, however they'll say you do. You can buy an injection moulded synthetic stock right from the local Edmonton Al. Wholesale sports for about $125.00 to $160.00 in a Ramline. You can buy a wooden re-carved from a gun shop dealer, or maybe Boydboys and learn to finish inletting the parts and finishing yourself, for about $250.00 or maybe more.
    There are options open to you. The prices I've quoted are not etched in stone. Different places have different prices.
    Last edited by Daryl S; 10-10-2011 at 12:36 PM. Reason: correction on pricing
    Daryl

  3. #3
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    Default

    Okay, I should have said more. I like the wood stock, and won't be replacing it. My grampa said that he used the rifle after he glued it and had no problems so I'm not going to fix what really isn't that broken. I plan on using this as a hunting rifle and not to be all shiny on a wall. About replacing the scope, when I look through it, it has lots of brown spots and dust. I'm think grampa said he put it on about 35 - 40 years ago so I'll change it out and sight it in before hunting next month. Besides, the gun was free and the only money I'll be putting into it is in that scope. Any info for me on the actual gun itself though?

  4. #4
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    kurtisb;

    Your rifle is a model 4100 made in 1957. The action is Husqvarna's "Improved Mauser Action" (aka 1640). This model if part of the "lightweight" family of rifles and was called the model 1600 in Sweden.

    Your choice of scope is an excellent match for the Husqvarna lightweights. I have 3 of them on my Husqvarna hunting rifles.
    Steve

  5. #5
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    nice attitude....and traditions over looks.....this keeping the gun in its org. hunting story condition with grandfathers handy work still telling all its stories with hunting dings, scrapes and fixes...... priceless!

    welcome to the boards......you the kind of guy we need.
    the old weaver can be refurbished, cleaned out side looks very good and correct for the time period.....or stored.

  6. #6
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    Hello again,

    Steve thanks for all the useful info! It's nice to know just exactly "what" I have and from reading other threads you are the Husky rifle resource around the web. Thanks for turning your hobby into something that points alot of others in the direction they're looking. Speaking of.... I ended up getting that scope that you like: (see "newscope.jpg")

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    After a quick boresight my friend (actually my friends dad Rick who's a hunter and has helped me with this whole the process) and I went the range and went through a box of ammo to see how close we could get to hitting a target. Bullets 17-20 look like this: (see "target_11OCT23.jpg")

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    Well shots 1 & 3 were okay but #2 I barely held onto the stock as to try and isolate the trigger. Which I unfortunately found that I pulled the gun just prior to the trigger press and threw it off course. But even still, at 100 yds I'd feel pretty confident putting Bambi's dad in the freezer. Hopefully I get to put another box through before heading out next month.


    And DK thanks for the kind words. For a relatively young guy (30) I'm one of the few who I know prefers the older stuff to the new. There's nothing special about a 2012 Dodge RAM that costs fifty grand. However when I drove my dads 1982 Dodge 250 that he put ten grand into...

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    I got way more looks and compliments and its actually useful as truck. Not something where I'd be scared to scratch the bed. And for the record this truck has a new 318, auto tranny conversion from the 4 speed, msd ignition, airbags, bluetooth, iPod connector, subwoofer, airhorn, A/C added....the list goes on.

    In regards to the old Weaver that was on there. It's not that special to me. Grampa put on a scope after he got the rifle, said it was too big as it was knocking off of center. Then he put on the Weaver. I ended up giving it to my mom. She originally wanted this rifle as she was there on christmas when her dad opened it from Gramma and still remembered that day. But, she was more than willing for me to have it because I'm going to use it for something and not ever sell it.

    Anyways, thanks again guys. Any other info about this thing I'd appreciate too. Hopefully I get something tasty next month.

    Take care.

    Kurtis

  7. #7
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    kurt:

    they like 180 grain 165 grain bullets......better than 150 usually in my experience....
    federal has given me the best groups or hand loads.....over 15 years now....
    your welcome also..

  8. #8
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    Hello everyone,

    Well I guess to show how much of a newbie I am, that last target was done with my buddy Rick's handloads...as soon as I switched to factory ammo they were much less consistent! Forgive my inexperience but lets just say I'm now saving my brass for when the time comes.

    So as I was planning on hunting in November (and ran out of handloads) I needed to find some ammo that'd work well. DK, I took your advice with the Federal's and picked up some PowerShok in 180 gr soft point (1). I then grabbed a box of Remington Express Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP (2), Barnes Vor-tx 180 gr tipped TSX BT (3) and a some Winchester Supreme Elite XP3 180 gr (4).

    I put up four targets and loaded the four different bullets in order from 1 - 4 to which I then shot targets 1 - 4 in order from left to right. After those 4 shots I placed in bullets 4 - 1 in order and shot targets 4 - 1 from right to left. This way I thought I never started or finished with the same target. After those 8 shots I let the barrel cool down for 15 minutes, made some adjustments to the scope, and repeated the exact same test. I was at 100 meters shooting off a bench, seated, with a backpack/pillow as a rifle support. And the results were....

    The Federals came in dead last... Both two shot groups had the bullets at 6 inches apart. This was a real eye opener for me from the handloads that I shot. Now I know what I need to do when I have more time, money, a bullet press, yadda, yadda... Moving on...

    The Barnes were 3rd place at 4 inches apart. A real shocker to me as they were double the price of the Federals.

    The surprise 2nd place was the Remington Core-Lokt's. Groups were 3 inches apart, bullets were relatively cheap and produced pretty good results!

    The winner though was the Winchesters. Both two-shot groups had the bullets touching each other. I was astonished!

    I then let the gun cool down again and put up a fresh target and attempted to "sight" the Winchesters in with my last 5 bullets.

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    After some light adjustments to the scope my last two shots were in middle so I felt that was good enough for my minute-of-deer angle considering I wouldn't be seated or supported.

    Since it was my first time hunting I went with a couple buddies in the area of: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=N54+46.417'+W114+28.717 between Nov 7/8.

    Didn't see anything but my friends did so that was good enough for me to try again.

    I did another couple day trips and on my third time out on Nov 23 at around 3 o'clock I saw this guy just standing there in a clearing about 50 meters/yards in front of me. (photo censored 'cause I don't know if people care whether or not they see that stuff)
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    - Headshot, dropped where he stood.

    So that was pretty awesome, and I had another chance to take a buddy hunting who's moved from South Africa. On Nov 24 at about 3:30 I saw her trying to walk across the cut line about 60 meters in front of me.

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    - Neck shot, dropped where she stood. (and no I don't know why my eye looks weird)

    So for my first year hunting I did pretty good! Wife's happy I can put some meat in the freezer and it was pretty special using grampa's old gun to do the same thing he did 50+ years ago. Oh and sbhva, thanks for the recommendation on the scope. All who looked through the glass were very disappointed when they had to go back to their rifles. And for those who were curious I kept the magnification just a little over 4x for both shots.

    Take care everyone and I hope you find some of my info useful!

    Now I just need to mount this bad boy!
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  9. #9
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    And here it is!

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  10. #10
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    sorry you didn't get the results from federal?
    Win....usually gave me average groups 2 INCH as i remember less than excellent Rem. core locks or
    ragged holes of Fed...165 bronze points and 180's...rounds....in my 98 action Huskys....1640's 3100..308'

    but at last ......the ammo i used and have stock piled many GOOD LOTS 20 YEARS....hand loaded speer ....

    i would think the new FED stuff would be improved BUT isn't the same as maybe todays lots on average ......?

    but even different box lot numbers do give different results i have found....but you had a "big gap" in the group?.....
    i ponder the variables and reasons?

    of course haven't bought new store stuff 3006 or 308, 300 mag ammo for hunting more than 6 years....

    i been mostly FMJ shtf stuff....or mixed old lots from others that stopped hunting...flea markets, gun shows.

    excellent kills..... sorry i gave you un usable info...thanks my friend for the new info....

    165 is your next test? <><dk

  11. #11
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    Default Great start to your big game hunting career!

    Only problem with your rig is you don't really need another rifle. But we won't tell your wife that.

  12. #12
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    Has anyone taught you how to clean the rifle properly? It is important.
    Daryl

  13. #13
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    @ DK PHILLIPS - Once I got such good results with that 180 gr XP3's I bought a bunch so I'll hopefully be good until I run out. Then at least I'll have the brass to reload with when that time comes in a few years. And I'm glad I could help other by putting up my results with those factory rounds. I'm not in a rush to try any 165's as I did pretty good with the 180's.

    @ lcmunn - Hah, yeah I know, and it's too bad. :P I did just buy a 1981 Remington 870 Police last month and plan on getting a Ruger 10/22 when I go out hunting next year. Maybe I'll get one more shotgun after that (as a 28" wingmaster barrel costs about as much as a new 870 express) but I'm not in a hurry to do so.

    @ Daryl S - Funny you mention that. I just did a top to bottom clean on my 870 today and spent about 3 hours with all my windows open for the solvent, oil and stock wax floating around my condo. I was shown how to do a basic clean and use Sweet's solvent with some patches and a cleaning rod. That is followed by a bore snake, some light oil everywhere and then a cleaning of the scope. But I do not have any idea how to take out the trigger and I was shown once how to take the bolt apart but I forget that process now. If you have any suggestions on how to do a better job and/or some photos/videos/links I'd greatly appreciate them! Thanks.

  14. #14
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    reloading i got best results with 180 Speer flat base HUNTING BULLETS bullets (i can look at boxe type i used them in 3006, 308), win brass and primers! 300 mag..
    4350 POWDER.....{(6?)grains i can look} very accurate 225 yard three shot ragged pinky finger hole...groups!

  15. #15
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    I know some people use bore snakes in their rifles - I don't and won't. Some people also use jointed rods. Both are bad for your bore. Use a solid one piece rod with appropriate jags with points that the patches fit over and stick on the end. Bore brushes (bronze) are not needed, let the solvents do their job. Don't leave Sweets or CR10 in the bore longer than 15 minutes before patching it out. After yo've patched it out, you can reapply if lots of copper is coming out- ie: blue patches.

    Remove the bolt and always clean from the breech. Use a bore guide. You con't have to dismantle the bolt for normal cleaning, nor do you have to take the triggers apart - ever. Spray the triggers with WD40, give them a hard shake or blow off the excess with canned air.

    Push the patches through from the breech. When you pull the rod back, the patch will/should drop off.
    Patches go one way only.

    Use a nitro solvent, like Hoppe's #9 for the final patch through your bore. Patches always drop off at the muzzle - don't drag them back and forth through the bore like was done with wrapped patches in the 'old' days.

    When done, wipe the bolt down with a rag that has been damped with an oil - 2 stroke mix oil is good ( I like Amsoil 100:1). This will not evapourate and will stay to lube the bolt. Don't douse the bolt with it or you'll get too much inside and it'll squirt you every time you pull the trigger.

    That's about it, easy stuff & easy cleaning method.

    Have fun.
    Daryl

  16. #16
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    Perfect Daryl, thanks for the info! I was wondering why after the black patches came out they would then be blue. Now I know that's just copper. So to clean the trigger group do I have to unscrew it from the stock or am I able to leave it attached? Thanks again!

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl S View Post
    I know some people use bore snakes in their rifles - I don't and won't. Some people also use jointed rods. Both are bad for your bore..
    I know this is off topic but please explain how a simple and very effective bore snake can be bad for your bore? I just do not see a better more effective manner in which to clean a bore in seconds...the brass brush simply follows the twist in the bore as it travels when you pull it slowly. Looking forward to your detailed comments..

    Thanks!

  18. #18
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    always clean from the chamber end of you gun not crown of your husky!

    when you leave the range run a wet patch through till you get home
    makes thing much easer....when you clean later..

    wet bore patch with solvent of choice put it through bore wait 15 min. clean.

    if it has ammonia in it do not get on you wood or let it stay in you bore longer than the time it takes to clean it effectly......and oil.

    your patches pushed through once.... dropped off end at muzzle.....
    don't pull it back through....just brings dirty stuff back through again......

    brass brushes are the rule.....steel too abrasive, plastic not effective at all.......

    use one piece brass or steel rods coated in plastic if possible...to cut down on ware caused by flex-ting in segmented rods...

    aluminum rods and segmented rods rub or deposit aluminum that embeds on rifling when fired later causing it to be heat ARC welded a bump of material in the barrel..... causing roughness unevenness thats what people say?

    snakes have there limits...my brother in law loves them but he's lazy about cleaning guns all together....he washes his Snake in the dish washer go figure......

    its not rocket science.....its a responsibility!.....i hope this helps anyone with the task!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl S View Post
    I know some people use bore snakes in their rifles - I don't and won't.
    NOT good.

    Eventually, hauling a piece of expensive string - impregnated with all kinds of crap - out of the muzzle, WILL degrade that vital part of your rifle.

    Do it at your own risk.

    tac
    I am an international Gunboards patron

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kurtisb View Post
    So to clean the trigger group do I have to unscrew it from the stock or am I able to leave it attached?
    Anyone have any info on cleaning the internal trigger assembly on these rifles? Thanks!

  21. #21
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    i sprayed them out with carburetor or bore solvents, wd40, cleaners dry.....
    lightly then molybdenum sulfate contacted areas with sear, rear of lugs,
    bolt movement in next to the shroud, moving or rubbing areas of trigger with a small saturated brush!
    never take trigger apart is my policy unless its broken....

  22. #22

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    The WD-40 that I am familiar with had received some bad press from some quarters in years past. Apparently it would evaporate out and leave a gummy deposit. Maybe not the best stuff to use on a trigger?

  23. #23
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    your right i have read it leaves a waxy type substance, no rust protection...
    in a trigger after i cleaned it throughly and re-oiled...molybbenum moving rubbing parts...
    it never gummed up or hurt things in actual use...when lightly applied.....
    i don't use it often enough on guns to have seen any problems....
    it will wash out of the trigger: trash, dust, practicals, mositure.....

    if your feelings run deeper or had bad experience with it don't use it there is better products on the market......i'm not promoting it just it always around most work benches isn't it?

  24. #24
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    About 10 years ago I stumbled across a synthetic lubricant called Ezzox. I initially liked it because it went on wet
    and then dried, but kept protecting the finish and it did not attrack any dust or lint or grit. I also learned that
    the synthetic oils don't create any problems in extreme cold as does traditional oils. In 2008 I had a spring time flood in my basement. The guns that had Ezzox survived with no blue damage at all.

    So I use it through out. I agree with DK about triggers. Spray them out with a solvent. Then use carb cleaner.
    Then blow out with compressed air (always wear eye protection). Then lubricate with a synthetic lube. Do not
    take the trigger assembly apart.

    Regarding the internal aspect of the bolt: You can disassemble the bolt by holding the barrel and turning the
    schroud either direction. Normally on the 1900 (my favorite) I can do this by hand. Do not use any type of pliers unless they have the plastic covered jaws - and then be very careful. Also, pay attention to the position so that you will get it back together in the cocked position. After disassembly, I use a solvent and a nylon bore brush to clean the inside of the bolt barrel. I then use a pipe cleaner on the firing pin hole. A very tiny brush is needed to clean around the extractor and ejector. Do not attempt to remove the extractor, ejector, the schroud or the firing pin spring assembly. Again, blow it out with air and then lube with a synthetic that dries.

    Keep in mind that there are no spare parts for these rifles. Therefore, clean regularly, but be gentle and do
    not disassemble anything where a spring can be launched and lost.

    Good Luck and Enjoy!

  25. #25
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    Hello everyone,

    Back again for Hunting season and for its first shot in the field this year I was able to get this little guy for the freezer. It's lung was completely ruptured and the past 3 deer I hit dropped where they stood. If anyone's curious, try out the Winchester Supreme Elite XP3 180gr in your Husqvarna's this season.

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  26. #26
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    Congrats. Did you keep the Weaver 4X on it? I have a weaver 4X on my model 4100 carbine that I still use.

  27. #27

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    This is the coolest thread! Keep the updates coming, I just love seeing hunters out doing it with good old rifles that just perform. Cheers, Al

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by moosemike View Post
    Congrats. Did you keep the Weaver 4X on it? I have a weaver 4X on my model 4100 carbine that I still use.
    That weaver had a bunch of ugly brown spots when looking through it so I didn't end up using the weaver and just gave it to my mom. I put on a Leupold VX-3 2.5x-8x 36mm but I just keep it at a little over 4x and only use the high magnification for sighting it in. It wasn't cheap but a real nice clear piece of glass. Besides the rifle was free so I figured I could justify it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Backcountryal View Post
    This is the coolest thread! Keep the updates coming, I just love seeing hunters out doing it with good old rifles that just perform. Cheers, Al
    I appreciate it man. I figured for a 55 year old rifle it still works fantastic and if I can help anyone learn something along the way then I'm glad I'm keeping up with this. Now while I have my deer for this year I may be trying to get another for my buddy who's into bow hunting (just to be his backup). Or if I see another with my regular hunting friends I may be going out with them so maybe another update this season.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbhva View Post
    kurtisb;

    Your rifle is a model 4100 made in 1957. The action is Husqvarna's "Improved Mauser Action" (aka 1640). This model if part of the "lightweight" family of rifles and was called the model 1600 in Sweden.

    Your choice of scope is an excellent match for the Husqvarna lightweights. I have 3 of them on my Husqvarna hunting rifles.
    Hi im intersted in what type of mounting system you used for your Husqvarna's. I need to install new bases on my 30-06 SN# 257 XXXA. Thanks in advance.

  30. #30
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    Sure you don't know, but Steve, SBHVA, recently passed away.

    Depending on what you're looking for, there are multiple choices for scope mounts for your rifle. There's a sticky thread at the top of the forum showing all the possibilities on a table.

    Actually, the lightest bases would be the Weaver type (#46 Front and #55 Rear). You then can find good quality aluminium rings to match. Personally, I am more into steel bases / rings, but if you want light weight, that's the easiest way to go.
    Coagula / Solve

    Baribal; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baribal

  31. #31
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    Thanks and sorry to hear that about Steve.

    So i can refer to my rifle as a 1600?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 30-06 nitro View Post
    Hi im intersted in what type of mounting system you used for your Husqvarna's. I need to install new bases on my 30-06 SN# 257 XXXA. Thanks in advance.
    Just for reference and to keep this thread somewhat on topic I'll post what I have below. All I know is that they're old and made by leupold.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mount.jpg  

  33. #33
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    Yes, the "A" in the S/N was only used for the 1600/1640 series. The Leupold one piece bases are still availlable today. See chart for futher info.
    Coagula / Solve

    Baribal; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baribal

  34. #34
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