Husqvarna trigger guard/floorplate
Results 1 to 29 of 29

Thread: Husqvarna trigger guard/floorplate

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    12

    Default Husqvarna trigger guard/floorplate

    G'Day All,

    I just wanted to know everyone's thoughts on whether the steel trigger guard/floorplate or the later alloy type is the overall best in the Husqvarna 1640 actions.

    I have read the alloy type are prone to cracking, but am not sure if this is true.

    Cheers, Mitchell

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    198

    Default Husky alloy floor plates and trigger guards.

    I have seen 3 broken and just replaced one the replacments are hard to find. Elmer.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    1,297

    Default

    I have never run across a broken alloy trigger guard and have only seen one broken floorplate. I actually broke the floorplate myself trying to straighten out one that had been bent.

    One the other hand, I have run across a couple of the steel triggerguards with broken floorplate releases.

    Keep in mind that finding any spare parts outside of Sweden can be difficult. And for goodness sake, don't lose your bolt!!! I can't believe how many contacts I have had over the years looking for a replacement bolt.
    Steve

  4. Remove Advertisements
    GunBoards.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Three broken, thats worse than I thought. :D

    It's hard to believe Husqvarna would take a step backwards though. Maybe they were struggling a bit financially.

    Steve, you say the release was a bit iffy but would you happen to know if the hinge was the same design?

    Anyway, I'll not worry whether I get steel or alloy, the're all the same on top... I hope.

    Thanks guys.

    Mitch

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    1,297

    Default

    The alloy floorplate has a completely different release design. The steel release is outside the trigger guard which means your finger (which is pushing the release) is in the way of the floorplate opening, especially with gloves on. The alloy release is inside the trigger guard.
    Steve

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Yep, I gotcha.

    For anyone that comes to gunboards knowing nothing about these rifles (Like I did a few days ago) this is the difference between the earlier steel design and the later alloy type. The steel is pictured top.





    One more thing, there was an ad in the latest issue of one of our major shooting magazines over here with what is described as a Husqvarna commercial small ring 98 action. It said the serial number was #1203XXX but I am assuming the 1 out the front isnt meant to be there. Anyway, it goes on to say its got an alloy trigger guard/floorplate, which contradicts the #220000 switch over.

    Maybe he cant tell if its steel or alloy.

    Any suggestions?

    Mitch

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    1,297

    Default

    You are learning quickly HuskyM96! Now for an advanced lesson. The alloy and steel trigger guard are interchangable with respect to the action, but it's the stock that is the problem. The steel trigger guard narrows around the front action screw (like a typical mauser) while the alloy does not. Sometimes you will see an alloy guard on an action with a serial number below 220,000, but most likely that is due to a stock swap to address the stock cracking problems of the early 1640's. Also, all the fullstocks I have seen (and that is alot!) have cutouts for the allowy trigger guard, even on guns with serial numbers below 220,000. I have owned a number of fullstock 7x57's (which are all found with serial numbers below 220,000) and all have had the alloy.

    As to the ad; I would bet that there is an extra X in the ad and it's really in the 120,000 serial range which would make it a 640 with a commercial FN 98 action and the seller doesn't know how to tell the difference between a large ring and a small ring.
    Steve

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Will a m98 (like 640 fn) bottom metal fit to a 1600 action properly ?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    1,297

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DKH7 View Post
    Will a m98 (like 640 fn) bottom metal fit to a 1600 action properly ?
    I have never tried that.
    Steve

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Posts
    1,700

    Default

    Interesting, I had never thought of the 98 versus 1640 situation either. I've got an HVA/FN 98 triggerguard/magazine sitting right here and a steel 1640 and arms length away. I'll give it a try:D
    kriggevær - skarpskytte, samler, jæger
    "Roland was a warrior from the Land of the Midnight Sun..."

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Posts
    1,700

    Default

    Nope - A M98 triggerguard/mag box might fit a 1640 with modification, but it would take metal work on the 98 and woodwork on the 1640.
    kriggevær - skarpskytte, samler, jæger
    "Roland was a warrior from the Land of the Midnight Sun..."

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Argh, ok, thats good that they are interchangeable. Its never likely to help me though, if I get an alloy 1640 the chance of finding a steel trigger guard to swap it with is near impossible for me in Australia.

    Im going to have to settle for anything I can get!

    Good idea about the interchangeability of the FN trigger guard, pity its not that straight forward though.

    Thanks for your help fella's. I've learnt a lot.

    Cheers, Mitch.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    181

    Default

    I dont have a 1600 action to check. I have lots of 98 and m96 parts. Im curious what dosent work with a m98 bottom. Screw spaceing ? what about a m96 bottom?
    Last edited by GSP7; 02-11-2008 at 09:14 PM.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Posts
    1,700

    Default

    Well, I didn't mean they were interchangeable, only that with modification to both parts they might work. The M98 mag is wider than the 1640 mag inlet and the action screw hole spacing is different. I think it would be more trouble than its worth unless there is just no other way to do it. I've got a small ring 640 that I could see how close it comes to fitting, but it is getting late. Cars and guns - they are all modifiable into something else, it just depends on how much effort and frustration you want to put into it
    Last edited by kriggevaer; 02-11-2008 at 11:14 PM.
    kriggevær - skarpskytte, samler, jæger
    "Roland was a warrior from the Land of the Midnight Sun..."

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Argh, ok, thats good that they are interchangeable. Its never likely to help me though, if I get an alloy 1640 the chance of finding a steel trigger guard to swap it with is near impossible for me in Australia.
    Sorry krig, I meant its good that the 1640 alloy guards are interchangeable with the 1640 steel ones. Steve said that a bit further up.

    And I dont know about you guys but I definately wouldnt modify a Husky to make something else fit on it. Keep em' the way there are I say!

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Posts
    1,700

    Default

    Oh! It was late and I was dopey so I misunderstood But, let me get the workshop warmed up and I will check and see how close a triggerguard from a small ring 648 will come to the 1640.

    Well, I checked the 648 triggerguard and it is far too short. I didn't take measurements, but the mag box on a 1640 is much narrower than a M98 mag box so you would have to rework the M98 mag box to a narrower dimension and/or take a considerable amount of wood out of the 1640 mag inlet. I will take measurements and think about it some more, but perhaps a modification of a M98 triggerguard mag box isn't as difficult as I thought, if, one has access to some metal working tools.
    Last edited by kriggevaer; 02-12-2008 at 08:47 AM.
    kriggevær - skarpskytte, samler, jæger
    "Roland was a warrior from the Land of the Midnight Sun..."

  18. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Thanks for your help Kriggevaer. I was thinkin if I got a rough 1640 action for a project, Id might want to replace that alloy/ large front tang bottom. Unless I happen to get a early 1640 with the steel bottom metal

  19. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Posts
    1,700

    Default

    Well, I haven't managed to get back in the shop and take all the necessary measurements, but I think it would be a worthwhile little study. Questions about the alloy versus steel triggerguards have popped up with some regularity. Because parts are so difficult to find an alternative would be great. Now, a lost bolt, which comes up every now and then, well that is beyond my capabilities.:D
    kriggevær - skarpskytte, samler, jæger
    "Roland was a warrior from the Land of the Midnight Sun..."

  20. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2

    Default Can someone tell me the year of manufacture of my rifle Husqvarna 1640

    Hello,

    I have a Husqvarna 1640 serial number 166XXX it is a 30-06.

    Can anyone tell me what year it was made?





    Thanks

  21. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Calgary, Canada
    Posts
    34

    Default

    I guess the nice thing about the alloy floor plate is that it's light weight :D

  22. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    In the Alberta Badlands
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jamesm029 View Post
    Hello,

    I have a Husqvarna 1640 serial number 166XXX it is a 30-06.

    Can anyone tell me what year it was made?





    Thanks
    I'd say it was built in 1954

  23. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Kachemak Bay Alaska
    Posts
    950

    Default

    Any other trigger guard (Lowers) that might work?
    How about any of the other commercial trigger guards from similar actions, like the Parker Hales or even the Howas????

  24. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In my WVA mind!
    Posts
    27,091

    Exclamation never seen alloy guard on a husky broken.

    but i would say to brake one , would be the flaw of the owner,:eek: not the design. . and i know that if you have a fail Case ( 306 in a 300 mag chamber) :eek: it is far better to blow off the alum. floor plate than to damage wood or gun more, it will let gas out the bottom of the gun fast! not into your face, i was lucky... no blessed :D not paying attention to what was handed to me! Ive went through that with a Austrian voere 3000 Tirol, and to steel 98s, Ive put a modern mark x 98 button release, trigger guard and all on a custom stocked FM safari deluxe action Parker hale with thumb slot in action, about 1958 model, no modifications except where button was. might fit 98 husky's with missed up trigger guards. <><dk

  25. #24

    Default

    Yes, a thread resurrection!

    I am able to purchase one of two Husqvarna 30-06 16XX series with either the steel or alloy floor plate. The rifles are identical except for the floor plate assemblies otherwise (stock, barrel length, etc.).

    I have a husky in 6.5x55 with the alloy plate, and another in 9.3x62 with the steel plate so I'm familiar with both designs.

    I looked closely at both assemblies and they are both machined and I can't think how switching to alloy would have saved Husqvarna much money as the machining costs are still going to be there. However, the alloy floor plate is almost 50% less by my scale which could be a reason:

    Alloy assembly weight: 4.8ozs.
    Steel assembly weight: 8.3ozs.

    Also, the alloy floor plate has the superior floor plate release location inside the trigger guard. This means it is much harder to have your ammo get accidentally dumped on the ground if some brush or your hand hits the exterior button. It would have to hit the button inside the trigger guard which is not as easy to do. Plus I suppose the alloy will not rust with your hand in the rifle carrying position all day around the magazine area.

    My question is between the two rifles, as they are the same price, is there a particular reason why I should choose steel over alloy? This is a hunting rifle for me and I'm looking to watch the weight. I'm not interested in collectable issues.

    In particular, which rifle would be built with better quality? The older one with all steel, or the newer one with alloy that maybe they were able to work out some kinks in the later versions?

    Which version will be less likely to cause me trouble when hunting in all conditions?

    Maybe it's a toss-up with what I listed above between steel vs. alloy?

    Any advice appreciated.

  26. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In my WVA mind!
    Posts
    27,091

    Default

    Alloy...scratches very easy.
    Steel wears longer.

  27. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Bolivia or North
    Posts
    2,026

    Default

    3.5 ounces if that's meaningful to you.
    I think blued steel looks better than black anodize or paint.
    But I wouldn't hesitate to buy one with an alloy triggergaurd if it was pretty and the price was right.
    .
    How many psi in a CUP?

  28. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In my WVA mind!
    Posts
    27,091

    Default

    I too agree.

  29. #28

    Default

    Thanks for the responses. I'll see which rifle looks nicer overall and make a choice. For 3.5ozs it may be best to get the steel for the durability.

  30. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Oceanside, California
    Posts
    1,958

    Default

    Echoing some of the earlier/expert posts here. Both alloy or steel; quality. I considerably prefer steel Husqvarna rifle bottom metal to their alloy editions. As noted, due to much softer metal, the latter scratching more easily and exposing particularly bright metal. On that note, my belief 'perhaps' the factory later applied a much more pleasing and more durable, Matt alloy finish. Considerably nicer looking to my view, such than the earlier alloy. See exemplars below.
    Also to note that the late fifties and sixties, 'the era' of alloy bottom metal. Across the board, increasing competition, ‘cost-saving’ becoming paramount. Many of the higher quality rifles such as the Pre 64 Winchester 70 Super Grade, remaining only in steel. For safe queens or those where particular specimen acquisitions paramount, to understand. Otherwise...
    For me, the issue remaining little contest., all other considerations largely equal and only marginal weight difference.
    Below exemplars of the bottom metal styles and finishes among my Husqvarnas. First several 1640/1000 models. 1. Early alloy. 2. Early steel. 3. Later Alloy (7mm Rem Mag of mid-sixtiesi) 4. Model 640 - (always in steel). Note, as discussed above, floorplate fastener difference and shape of the triggerguard assemblies, between alloy and steel.

    Just my take
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R265-18.jpg   R276-9.jpg   R312-5.jpg   R336-5.jpg  

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •