TYPE 99 ARISAKA Sniper I just bought..... hope its real
Results 1 to 36 of 36

Thread: TYPE 99 ARISAKA Sniper I just bought..... hope its real

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default TYPE 99 ARISAKA Sniper I just bought..... hope its real

    I was able to buy this for around $475, I dont know a lot about them but know it was a deal. can anyone tell me if it is legit. He told me what he wanted for it and I did not have time to say no or do any research. the worst that could happen is i would be out $475, but i think the scope is worth almost that. s






  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    165

    Default

    nice. I don't know much about them either, but you may have scored big time.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    You stole it. Scope is about $1500 if optics are OK. Bolt looks OK. The stock relief cut for the scope is uncertain, need better pics. Need a pic of the serial number and bolt number to say much more.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    GunBoards.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    if its real i would say i did, but i dont know a thing about them either.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    6,967

    Default

    A real Type 99 sniper and scope is easily worth five times your purchase price and it would quickly sell in that price range. At auction, with the right players involved, it would probably sell for six times or more.

    The photos reveal no warnings signs and it looks good. BUT, those photos indicate that it was once listed, and perhaps sold, on Gun Broker. Unless it was horribly described and virtually no one saw it, I can not imagine it not being purchased, or alternatively I can't imagine it not selling for so much more than the asking price now.

    If you didn't have it in hand I would suspect that someone was using photos swiped from an online auction and trying to scam you from a distance. If you have the rifle and scope shown, and you paid less than $500, you just hit a grand slam. Congrats!
    Purists of the world, unite!

    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    Samuel Adams

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    I was able to to buy the rifle on gunbroker with a buy it now. He shipped the rifle today but I could not stand it anymore and had to see if it was legit.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    6,967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brodydog View Post
    I was able to to buy the rifle on gunbroker with a buy it now. He shipped the rifle today but I could not stand it anymore and had to see if it was legit.
    It's true, miracles happen.

    Congrats on a big score. Everyone hates you now.
    Purists of the world, unite!

    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    Samuel Adams

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    2,133

    Default

    It looks correct but possibly is not. If legit the serial will be on the top of the reciever behind the arsenal stamp. If a repo on the side partially obscured by the scope base Good news,the scope alone is worth three times your price and more alone if the optics and reticle are intact. The mount cut in the stock could be bubba, looks wide, which brings into question the stock. The mount base may be a repro or just bad photo. The bolt handle is questionale too from that angle? Need better pictures to know for certain. Not a battlfield rifle (defaced mum) What is the number on the back of the scope mount base and the serial of the rifle (rear of reciever on top just in front of the bolt handle if real or on the side under/near the base (partially obscured if fake). Hard to believe it went for 500. How many sales did the seller have? You did great if he delivers just the scope . i CAN NOT WAIT FOR BETTER PICTURES. LOL...I hope you scored big and the rifleis legit, matching and a find.
    Last edited by mjmd; 12-05-2013 at 07:13 AM.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    12265 is the scope number, i dont have the rifle yet so I cant tell you anything other then what the pic show. I will try to update as soon as i get it.
    Last edited by brodydog; 12-04-2013 at 06:12 PM.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Where Men are Men and Sheep are Nervous
    Posts
    2,558

    Default

    Damn you stole that one, amazed the auction lasted 2 hours!
    "The only real power comes out of a long rifle."- Joseph Stalin

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=380176065

    here is the link/ the seller has over 150 sales. the serial number is on the top of the receiver. I sent him an email asking if he had a but it now and he said $475 shipped would work. I sent him a credit card payment and he advised he would ship the rifle today. I cant believe no one placed an opeing bid on it.

    I have already ordered the missing parts.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    2,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brodydog View Post
    12265 is the scope number, i dont have the rifle yet so I cant tell you anything other then what the pic show. I will try to update as soon as i get it.
    yikes!. only 10,000 99 snipers made so i assume you took that off the rear of the scope/eyepiece?

    turn the scope over, in the middle of the base on the back will be a stamped number. you can almost see it in your photo but it is out of focus

    see photo of where a serial number should be on a type 99 sniper rifle. note what the top of the bolt handle looks like and the curve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 39.jpg  

    Last edited by mjmd; 12-04-2013 at 06:51 PM.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Where Men are Men and Sheep are Nervous
    Posts
    2,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brodydog View Post
    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=380176065

    here is the link/ the seller has over 150 sales. the serial number is on the top of the receiver. I sent him an email asking if he had a but it now and he said $475 shipped would work. I sent him a credit card payment and he advised he would ship the rifle today. I cant believe no one placed an opeing bid on it.

    I have already ordered the missing parts.
    I have a Type 99 Sniper I got from my dad back in the late 70's that is #'s matching but minus the scope, and I have hunted far and wide for a scope only to just miss out everytime one comes along.
    That my friend is a screaming deal on a very hard to find sniper.
    "The only real power comes out of a long rifle."- Joseph Stalin

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mjmd View Post
    yikes!. only 10,000 made so i assume you took that off the rear of the scope/eyepiece?

    turn the scope over, in the middle of the base on the back will be a stamped number

    see photo of where a serial number should be on a type 99 sniper
    I will look in that location as soon as i get the rifle, I am hoping Saturday or Monday at the latest. I will be like a kid before Christmas until it comes.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    You definitely stole it. It is not likely that the bore is pitted but it is possible. They were chrome lined.

    The serial on the top bridge is what I needed to see. Original Nagoya t99 sniper. Stock cut for the base looks a little better in those pics. Bolt is original sniper bolt, but can not see if it matches. I can not understand why it sold so cheap. It is a $2500-3500 rifle depending on more detailed pictures. If the scope number on the back/inside matches the rifle serial number, very unlikely, double the value I guessed. The serial number you cite is the scope serial number and is independant of the rifle number. They only made 10,000 Nagoyas so a scope rifle serial number of over 10,000 is not possible.

    Looks like mjmd beat me on the other info.

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mjmd View Post
    yikes!. only 10,000 99 snipers made so i assume you took that off the rear of the scope/eyepiece?

    turn the scope over, in the middle of the base on the back will be a stamped number

    see photo of where a serial number should be on a type 99 sniper rifle


    I just looked back at the auction pic and there is a number in the location you showed in your pic. I dont think it matched the scope number.

  18. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    2,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brodydog View Post
    I just looked back at the auction pic and there is a number in the location you showed in your pic. I dont think it matched the scope number.

    that is good news? you may have a legit 99.I hope you do. Mike radford seems positive and he knows them far better than id do. So we will see.

  19. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Where Men are Men and Sheep are Nervous
    Posts
    2,558

    Default

    I blew up auction pick #5 and it looks like there is a s/n of 7820 and the stock cut out looks spot on to mine.
    "The only real power comes out of a long rifle."- Joseph Stalin

  20. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    6,967

    Default



    The Nagoya marking is where it should be.
    Purists of the world, unite!

    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    Samuel Adams

  21. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    thanks everyone, I cant wait to get it. I will post more pic when it comes. He put it in the mail today and sent it priority so it should only take 3 day to get here.

  22. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    12,025

    Default

    When your thread title says, "hope it is real", you might want to pinch yourself each morning for the next three days. I've had really vivid dreams before. Just sayin'.



    Wow.

  23. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    Post it on the Japanese Forum as well. Vic Soto will want to know the data and can provide you with some more details.

    Hopefully the closet neglect will clean up well. A gentle cleaning with Kroil oil and bronze or Nickel wool will make the metal look much nicer. The Japanese blueing does very well with such a cleaning. I had a Kokura 99 sniper that was neglected and it cleaned up amazingly well. The missing small parts, screws or whatever, will not be a big deal. I am most curious about the bore and optics. Keep us updated.

  24. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    I will let you know as soon as i get it. I have already ordered the parts.

  25. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    View W/bars on windows Glendale, Kali
    Posts
    4,406

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by martin08 View Post
    When your thread title says, "hope it is real", you might want to pinch yourself each morning for the next three days. I've had really vivid dreams before. Just sayin'.




    Wow.

    Martin don't you say anything your luck must have rubbed on OP.
    Bitterly clinging to my guns/ammo /religion since 11/6/2012 Compesce Mentem:Compos Mentis
    Join NRA


    C&R collector Contact me Finn M39 or K98. Offer Russian SVT-40 date1942 Tula Trade for k98 Berlin-Lubecker- "237" 1940, and also "duv" 40 date.
    Feedback iTrader Link:
    http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?342775-armenjs-is-EXCELLENT-to-deal-with!



  26. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    3,297

    Default

    Never like those. GREAT price tho. Flip it and use the profits on some cooler snipers. :D

  27. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    They are not my favorite either but there is so much history with them it would be hard for me to sell. I am a Mauser guy but this will find a place in the safe. It will also depend on the condition once i clean it up

  28. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    6,967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brodydog View Post
    They are not my favorite either but there is so much history with them it would be hard for me to sell. I am a Mauser guy but this will find a place in the safe. It will also depend on the condition once i clean it up
    Please don't over-do the cleaning.
    Purists of the world, unite!

    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    Samuel Adams

  29. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    734

    Default

    I wont, I have cleaned quite a few mausers and use oil and stainless steel wool. I dont scrub to hard and only attempt to remove the surface rust. After i do that I will wipe it all down and apply a heavy coat of oil and let it sit for a few days and wipe it down. then I will apply a second coat and place it in my safe. I will wipe the stock down with wax and cloth only.
    If you have a better or different way please let me know, The only reason i do it this way is because that is how i was shown.

  30. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    6,967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brodydog View Post
    I wont, I have cleaned quite a few mausers and use oil and stainless steel wool. I dont scrub to hard and only attempt to remove the surface rust. After i do that I will wipe it all down and apply a heavy coat of oil and let it sit for a few days and wipe it down. then I will apply a second coat and place it in my safe. I will wipe the stock down with wax and cloth only. If you have a better or different way please let me know, The only reason i do it this way is because that is how i was shown.
    I am a strong opponent of adding any new "layers" to a stock, so I would recommend against applying any wax, oil or the latest trendy wood "preservatives." I know this will anger the multitudes of haters, but I recommend just wiping down the rifle, the metal and the wood, with WD-40. This will lift any grease and grime without harming the metal or wood finish. Needless to say, don't soak the wood with WD-40, just wipe it down and then wipe-off the excess.

    If the metal has any light surface rust, apply just about any solvent, oil or grease and very, very lightly see if the rust will wipe-off with a cloth before moving to a very fine grade of steel wool. I have never had any problems with steel wool, but I have a very light and cautious touch when it comes to cleaning old artifacts. Whether you use steel wool, or copper or brass, be gentle, you can and will scratch the surface and remove finish that should be left in place if you apply to much pressure. An old rust/patina on an old rifle is more appropriate than spots of shiny, in the white steel where spots of rust were aggressively removed.

    I have only the low resolution photos to work from, but I believe your rifle just came out of a closet. Wipe it down and leave it alone. Maintain a proper environment and keep it out of the sun light. I guarantee that it will age much more nicely than any of us here if you simply do no harm. That's my advice.
    Purists of the world, unite!

    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    Samuel Adams

  31. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    3,340

    Default

    Hi brodydog :

    Looks like the God of collectors took a liking to you !, congratulations. Haven't heard of such a find in two decades. Based on the blowup by Richard it is Nagoya 99 # 7820. It is a new number for the files falling in between # 7768 and 7839.
    Before rifle # 7250 the receiver mounting base was made to accept the smaller 2.5 x 10° scopes. From rifle # 7250 to 9999 end of production all have the normal 4X receiver base like yours.
    From rifle # 7250 to 8000 equals to 750 rifles made, in that range I only knew of 15 reported rifles, yours is the 16th.
    The scope that came with it is the correct 4 x 7° fixed model. This particular example was manufactured by Takatiho Seisakujo, serial number 12265. The information we need is once you remove the scope from the rifle look on the backside of the mounting area, you will see a small rectangular cover plate retained by 4 tiny slotted head screws, in the middle of that plate will be a one to four digit long number. That is the rifle issue number to which the scope was optically paired to at the factory, more than likely it will be a number between 1300 and 1900 which is based on previously reported scopes in my files for that scope maker. Takatiho was contracted to make 1000 4 power scopes, I have data on 38 scopes and yours is the 39th. There is no matching scope for your rifle in my files.
    The barreled action is secured by 3 trigger guard screws, the front one is the shortest, the middle one is just behind the trigger guard, and the rearmost is the longest and is called the tang screw. Beware of imitations, these are uncommon metric screws and not "commercially" available. The front one is : 6 x 0.75 x 22 mm, middle : 6 x 0.75 x 32 mm, and the rear - tang : 6 x 0.75 x 57 mm .
    Vicasoto

  32. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC Mountains
    Posts
    7,235

    Default

    I am trying to understand how the seller could sell it for so cheap when he knew exactly what it was judging from the description..
    I normally throw offers to people with bad descriptions, but folks like this I figure "no reserve.. hes going to want a couple grand, not worth my time".

    As someone else said, miracles happen.
    Congratulations, real or not you at least tripled you money.
    Jack of all milsurps, master of none.

  33. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard in NY* View Post
    I am a strong opponent of adding any new "layers" to a stock, so I would recommend against applying any wax, oil or the latest trendy wood "preservatives." I know this will anger the multitudes of haters, but I recommend just wiping down the rifle, the metal and the wood, with WD-40. This will lift any grease and grime without harming the metal or wood finish. Needless to say, don't soak the wood with WD-40, just wipe it down and then wipe-off the excess.

    If the metal has any light surface rust, apply just about any solvent, oil or grease and very, very lightly see if the rust will wipe-off with a cloth before moving to a very fine grade of steel wool. I have never had any problems with steel wool, but I have a very light and cautious touch when it comes to cleaning old artifacts. Whether you use steel wool, or copper or brass, be gentle, you can and will scratch the surface and remove finish that should be left in place if you apply to much pressure. An old rust/patina on an old rifle is more appropriate than spots of shiny, in the white steel where spots of rust were aggressively removed.

    I have only the low resolution photos to work from, but I believe your rifle just came out of a closet. Wipe it down and leave it alone. Maintain a proper environment and keep it out of the sun light. I guarantee that it will age much more nicely than any of us here if you simply do no harm. That's my advice.
    I pretty much agree with Richard. Go slow with any cleaning. I would soak the metal parts with Kroil Oil instead of WD40 but most oils will help. Then wipe it with a cloth and try again. I would just wipe the stock with clean cloth or paper towels.

    I have cleaned several T99s with Kroil oil and fine steel wool with great results but I went very light, slow and very carefully. When in doubt do as little cleaning as possible. Many would suggest just wiping it with oil and then apply RIG and call it good. A few would say do nothing but I personally can not at least try to stop any rust with an application of RIG.

  34. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Where Men are Men and Sheep are Nervous
    Posts
    2,558

    Default

    Any Updates brodydog ?
    "The only real power comes out of a long rifle."- Joseph Stalin

  35. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    46

    wink2 Hey thats my picture ...LOL

    Quote Originally Posted by mjmd View Post
    yikes!. only 10,000 99 snipers made so i assume you took that off the rear of the scope/eyepiece?

    turn the scope over, in the middle of the base on the back will be a stamped number. you can almost see it in your photo but it is out of focus

    see photo of where a serial number should be on a type 99 sniper rifle. note what the top of the bolt handle looks like and the curve
    Still looking for a scope for mine.

  36. #35

    Default

    Any updates? Great find, any range report? More photos please!

  37. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    These typically shoot 1.5 MOA, five shots of factory non-match ammo. I had one do 0.78 MOA but that is not the norm. Most WW2 snipers do about the same with match ammo. Most people will not shoot them as the lenses delaminate and you have a mess. I am not so smart.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •