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New to the Makarov owner here

3K views 33 replies 14 participants last post by  LantanaTX 
#1 ·
Hello,

I just picked up a Makarov for what I think was a pretty good deal at $210.00 without shipping or FFL fee, since it was a local guy and we can just do a face to face, hand the cash get the gun transaction here in Texas. It is a Bulgarian Circle 10, that if I decoded it correct is a 1990. The finish is thin and the grips are ugly, but the after a thorough cleaning and lube seems to be in great shape with a very sweet trigger.

I intend try to hot blue it and change the grips. Any suggestions are appreciated, I like to fix up old guns and currently also have a CZ82, CZ83 and a P-64. One question I do have is why is the hammer and safety a redish color? Looks like highly polished, glossy rust?



 
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#2 ·
Reddish color on a hammer and safety is normal, its due to the manner in which the pieces are cast/forged, then cooled. Personally I like the looks of your hammer, but the safety is showing some wear.

I prefer Pierce Grips for the Bulgies. They seem to work real nice together. I'm sure this is going to open a can of worms....

I had my Bulgie re-blued. It came out super.

$210 is a great price.

One last thing, does your slide lock back and stay locked back after last round out?
 
#3 ·
I won't know about the slide locking back until I shoot it this Saturday. The guy I bought it from said it worked perfectly and he never had a problem with it but he shot it very little. When I took it apart to clean and inspect, it seemed like the recoil spring was in backwards. I flipped it around so that the smaller diameter end is now on the barrel which requires you to twist it on. I hope this is correct as this is how my P-64 goes on.

I want to use this gun to learn how to re-blue. I am not interested in cold bluing and am trying to see what my options are for hot bluing or slow rust bluing. I would like to achieve the original finish which on my gun is very black. anyone know about Nitre bluing? I also ordered a set of unused redish bakelite Star grips as I like the period look although the Pierce are probably more comfortable to shoot.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I've found the Pierce grips a little softer on the hands since they are "rubber" vice some harder based material (plastics, etc).

Chukmak has the right guidance for you on the main spring.

On the slide locking back: Take an empty mag and insert it and then pull the slide back. It should lock open. If it doesn't, then it most likely won't at the range. I would still do a range test.

Speaking of range test: Start out with no mag inserted and slide locked open. Hand load a single round into the chamber and either release slide slowly or normally. Then fire this round. This will test gun. Do this 4-5 times.

Once you have completed that, load 1 round into a mag, insert mag, cycle slide, fire the round, and see if the slide locks back. Then do a mag with 2-3 rounds.

If everything checks out after this, blast away.

If the slide doesn't lock back during the slide lock test, you can still shoot the gun, but I would replace the slide lock at the earliest date you can.

On the main spring, you have no idea how many rounds have been cycled through that gun on that spring. Get a new one.

If you have mags that you can only load 7 rds into, get a new magazine spring.

There are different "loads" on the factory ammo. LVE in the green/gold box is considered a "hot load". Brown bear is a nice load to plink and get familar with your Mak.

Lastly, and if my advice/guidance to you has been well received up to this point, then I strongly urge you to take this last piece to heart: DO NOT BUY MAKAROV MAGS FROM KEEPSHOOTING.COM
 
#6 ·
I appreciate all the tips. The slide locks back fine on an empty mag. I will do the checks above on Saturday when I can get to the range. I will be shooting the ammo I have which is Red Army Standard. This ammo has been flawless in the CZ82 and my P-64. I believe this might be considered a little hot as chronograph test has it very consistent over 1000 FPS. When you say main spring, are you referring to the recoil spring?
 
#9 ·
Nice looking gun, you got a really good price for it as well which makes for a good project gun, even if you refinish it it'll still be worth more than you paid for it. :crossfingers:

Those are the original grips as well in case you were wondering. You're gonna love it even more after you shoot it!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Welcome to the Mak family. Personally I prefer the thinner East German grip to the Pearce which adds so much bulk. The Mak is, to me, a light caliber relatively soft recoil which does not require much in the way of recoil aid. But that is just me, others do prefer a soft grip. My Mak is a fav carry pistol and the thinner grip prints less also, plus the harder grip does not pull at material and print like soft or tacky rubber can.
 
#15 ·
Thanks guys, Can't wait to shoot it Saturday! I think for the price I paid, I can restore it and still be money ahead. I would like to re-blue it myself and have been researching the internet to see how I can do this. I mentioned Nitre bluing above but that seems more suitable for small parts and not a whole gun. One interesting thing I have found that would allow me to hot blue for just a few dollars is drain cleaner bluing. don't laugh, evidently Dain cleaner crystals is the same thing Browning sells for a lot more! I already have the burner (turkey fryer burner) and a grinder with a buffing wheel. Here is a link that discusses this and has some pictures of finished guns. Click on the link in the first post to see instructions. Read both threads if you are interested in bluing your own gun for very little money!

http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/th...ing-job-that-works-great-with-factory-results
 
#19 ·
I am starting to get the things together I need to re-blue the gun. I bought a ceramic coated stock pot from Walmart along with a stainless steel ladle that has a fine mesh for small parts. Anyone know if stainless is OK for bluing small parts? I read not to use a stainless or aluminum pot. After shooting/testing the gun tomorrow, I will strip and start cleaning and polishing it for bluing. Walmart was out of Drain Out, but if I can't find it I will buy some drain cleaner that is 100% lye and some 16-0-0 or 15-0-0 Sodium Nitrate. Mixed 2:1 (5lbs Lye to 2.5 pounds Sodium Nitrate) in distilled water, at 275-290 degrees which is a recipe I got from Cajun gun works who I have dealt with before and specializes in CZ's. This recipe is actually what is in Drain Out drain cleaner. Bluing the gun myself will cost me less than $50 and I will be able to take all the time I need polishing and prepping the gun to perfection.
 
#23 ·
Good luck with your blueing project. Please keep that pistol away from a buffing wheel. To do it right you have to take the time and polish it by hand....

You should also consider getting rid of the billboard import mark on the slide. BUT, whatever you do don't touch the new serial number. Do a search and you will find import marks must be applied by the importer but there is no law saying the end user can't remove it. If you do make sure you sand it off on a hard/level surface. If its not totally flat the imperfections will show.

Also, Only do this if its for your own use or you are ethical enough to tell the next owner it was an import. No scamming!
 
#24 ·
I am shooting it first to make sure if it needs any smithing it gets done before bluing. I had hoped to get to the range today but ended up working on my daughters car. I will head out to the range tomorrow morning and if all goes well the gun will come apart tomorrow afternoon. I received a couple of new parts I ordered today, A new set of NOS backlite grips which are beautiful and a new slide release as the one on my gun was too worn. I am still waiting on a new safety lever which I ordered for the same reason. The import marks will come off and if I ever sell it, I will be honest about the refinish and import marks being removed. BTW, I have purchased two CZ83's, 2 years apart from a dealer on Gun Broker and neither gun had been refinished or had any import markings. I have an awesome 83 if anyone needs one.
 
#27 ·
Ok, I am back from the range and WOW! Love this Makarov! I was shooting at 7 yards and was shooting very tight groups. I was very impressed with the accuracy and it was 100% reliable through 2 boxes (100 rds) of Red Army Standard FMJ. Time to start taking it apart for the re-bluing project.
 
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