That makes sense. There is no pressure on this area during normal use unless you really slam the safety on. I will say though, that the slide thickness, for the safety pocket, is very,very thin so I don't think it would take much of a blow to cause this damage.
I'm thinking of silver soldering actually silver brazing ( The term "silver solder" covers both the low heat and high heat versions. The low heat version the silver content is quite small and is mostly tin which explains why it will mate with steel. The high heat version is usually around 56 % silver and is pretty expensive. It should really be called "silver brazing". It's 450 deg. F vs 1200 deg. F ) a reinforcement across the back. I just don't want that little piece to pop off and go disappearo on me. If I had access to a TIG welder it would be very simple to weld a spot on that crack. By the way, that crack extends through the safety pocket, for now, and stops at the bottom rail.
Talking about the "silver solder" confusion a bit more. Often people will have a difficult time removing something from a firearm that has been "silver soldered" Chances are that the piece is "silver brazed" on and the steel needs to get to a dull red before the joint will soften. Shotgun barrels are "silver soldered" together which explains why they should not be dunked nto a hot bluing salts tank.
I just got this pistol; haven't even tested it yet. I'll post some pictures as soon as I get around to taking them. Long story short, I ordered the gun sight unseen from an online distributor. It was advertised as "Good" condition (with a picture of a "Very Good" example and a number of glowing customer feedbacks) and represented to me by a sales rep as "closer to 'Very Good' condition" but "free" shipping turned out to be $17.95 and what I was sent was a filthy rustbucket. Judging by the condition it was originally a POS with no magazine and they had put on some better used grips and installed a cheapo aftermarket magazine before they shipped it to me. I complained bitterly and by sheer coincidence they just happened to have a new batch in better condition. So I sent back the filthy rustbucket and got one in what I would actually call "Good" condition. PITA, but they did refund my shipping and FFL fees.
Thanks for the info, arquebus357. Nice to know the difference. This is what makes Gunboards so cool ... all the helpful knowledge that's shared.:thumbsup:
Here's my "Bubbalistic" repair to the cracked slide. Drilled a hole in the back of the slide, bent a pin to conform to the curves, plugged it in and silver BRAZED ( 56% silver @ 1200 deg, F ). Now just waiting for my Mark Lee Express Blue shipment.
Nicely done! :thumbsup: I've had great results with Oxpho Blue from Brownells ... Never heard of Mark Lee Express Blue ... Is it better? Do you recommend it? Thanks
Mark Lee Express Blue is a rust bluing product. It's referred to as "express" because unlike traditional rust bluing, there is no need to hang in a "wet hot box" for hours. Instead, you dunk into boiling water for 5 minutes. The entire sequence is...heat to 200 deg. F, wipe on bluing solution, dunk in boiling water, Card and repeat. Both the frame and slide were given 6 applications. Of course, the result is far more sturdy than Oxpho Bluing. I highly recommend.
Of course the silver brazing will not take bluing that's designed for steel. Brownells sells a solution that is specifically meant for use with silver brazing. It's on it's way.
I'm not a fan of painting fire arms... This is my Spousal Unit's gun and she very much likes the green, stabilized, maple burl grips. Do you like these better ?? That's an Oxpho Blue finish. Not too bad.
At 34 oz, this is the only 9mm she enjoys shooting. She's 72, I'm 80. Not being a collector, I probably should not even be posting to this forum. This is my last post..
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