1640 HVA custom build
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Thread: 1640 HVA custom build

  1. #1
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    Default 1640 HVA custom build

    Hi All,

    After probably days of reading your fine forum, Ive finally decided to register and post;

    Sitting on the desk beside me is a 1640 action from a 425$ Trade Ex rifle. It arrived with a 30-06 barrel, alloy bottom metal, and a joke of an aftermarket stock that was so badly inletted that the pillars had been extended so only about half the trigger was peeking out from below the action. Within an hour of picking up the rifle from the post office, I had it out of the stock, the bolt disassembled, and the action soaking in a bucket of toluene. The next day I pulled the barrel out and cleaned some more. Since cleaning it up, I changed the cocking piece out for a flat bottomed commercial M98 style, and substantially lapped the lugs particularly in the receiver, where it seems they either tore them up or rolled a chip under the tool during manufacture. I machined a small cast iron lap to first lap the lugs in the receiver, then made another fixture with a spring loading the bolt face so I could lap the bolt lugs to the receiver. I stopped after about 75 percent contact was achieved top and bottom, where I estimate from bluing wear original contact was about 30 percent on the bottom lug, and less than 10 percent on the upper one.

    I then for no other reason than sheer winter boredom bought a cheap metal polishing kit, and polished the bolt and extractor to a marginally mirror finish.

    So, the plan...

    ...a Mauser actioned long range deer, close range elk, and up to 1km bell ringer, chambered in 264 Win Mag.

    Ive been moonlighting for a small welding-machining-smithing shop, and hes willing to pay me in gun parts, dollar for dollar, at my wage.

    The stuff ive ordered or already gotten:

    1:8 twist Benchmark 5R #6 contour sporter barrel. We figure we can finish this one at just under 29.5 inches
    Timney #301 (i think) trigger with side safety
    Commercial M98 cocking piece to work with Timney above
    Boyds prairie hunter laminate stock inlet for a large ring Mauser

    The stuff Ive figured out:

    After side by side comparison with an HVA 1640 that was factory chambered in 7mm RM, it seems the feed lips and follower are identical between my action and the magnum one. A series of measurements proved them to me no more than .005 inches from one another. Looks like all I need to do is open up the bolt face, and re grind the extractor.

    The HVA action, despite being a small ring, (should) be able to withstand 64 some odd KPSI without lug setback, gas venting, explosion, etc.

    The Timney trigger can fit. Sort of.

    My questions:

    Is .264 WM a wise choice for this action. Ive seen chamberings up to 358 Norma mag, including 7 Rem Mag and other cartridges in a similar pressure realm

    Did my bolt lapping compromise the hardness of the receiver lugs. Theres literally no information on how the 1640 actions were heat treated, material, hardness etc...

    Is there someone who has put the timney on this action available to comment on the procedure. Online, I can only find vague references to Tradewinds timney triggers, and some saying it will work, others not.

    Sorry for the long rambly post, and thanks for reading and any advice you can provide. Merry Christmas, Cheers.

    PS- I am actually a machinist, and can make things fit that ordinarily would be too difficult or costly for the non machinist, if that makes sense.

  2. #2
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    Welcome yoour boards...friend, merry Christmas too.

    I'm having thoughts that are a bit confusing ...
    Photos of action would help.....
    1640 isn't a 98 action..."was the safty on the bolt shroud you took off?"
    If it was its a 98, not a 1640.

    If safety on the right side attached to trigger group its 1640. (Or later 1900 having saftey in same left position)

    1900 actions have cammed lugs slanted not flat like Mauser ony make full barring on complet closer.
    (and can not be worked down 98 style.)

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    Take s look at my graphic drawings (for an article I was writting for GunDigest's and ken Warner...never published.)
    this should clear up which action:
    1) first a 98 FM 1950's actions used to build earlie huskys.
    2) second HVA in house design 1640 action introduced in mid 1950's.
    3) Third (and last in my drawings and my favorite) 1900 action designed Late 1950's ( to replace 1640's)

    Get back to me will talk more <>< Daniel

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    As far as your queston about surface Harding reduced by grounding locking lugs ???
    locking lugs metallurgy ....not my expertise ...checking safty issues must be expertly done!

    A note: 1640's have with stood (over) 70,000 pounds pressure barrels packed with wet sand and blue proff load fired in it did not wreck barrel or action. 1963 ad Guns mag.

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    264....no experience owned traders only never shot O Even!
    I would think 7 mag easiest route to take...

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    Hi, figured I'd need to clarify this rambling mess at some point, wife was rushing me towards the door...
    I have no doubt the action is a late 1640 action, it has the slide safety, mauser claw extractor, tiny (in comparison to my m96) bolt release button, and alloy bottom metal. Receiver thread is approximately .980" major diameter, with 12 threads per inch.

    After substantial lapping of the receiver lugs I estimate that up to .002" may have been removed from the lugs during the process. I'm wondering if that's enough to blow through the case hardening, if these actions even are cased? I have read about people cutting back the lugs in the lathe, which I imagine would remove way more material. This whole thought may be a complete non issue...unless these actions have a shallow case hardening like the M98's do. I'm trying to contain up to 64K PSI from the 264.

    Also, I was hoping for some guiding light from someone who has put a Timney on these actions before and what's required. I switched over to the commercial m98 cocking piece per this forum due to the Husky cocking piece trapping the timney sear in it's V-shaped bottom. I like the side safety idea, and ordered the mauser timney that includes it.

    Most of my confusion stems from the fact I originally thought the HVA action was more of a modern M98 clone, not as different as it is. Its really my fault for not looking into this thing more closely, hopefully I can still get it suitable for what I'm trying to do.

    In terms of the caliber choice, I was on the fence with whether I wanted to go 308 norma mag, 358 NM, 7 Mag or 264. I already buy 6.5mm bullets for my sporterized surplus M96 in 6.5x55, and I've been thinking about a fast 6.5 for probably a decade. I really want to play with the 6.5mm ballistics with some power behind it, and the 264 Win became the obvious choice in my mind, at least.

    I welcome everyones input.

  8. #7
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    Default Some really abysmal pictures

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    The camera lens on my phone is actually broken in half. Please excuse the terrible image quality!

  9. #8

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    Hi Ichiban, in my opinion any of the 6.5 cals will make a good long distance rifle, so the 264Mag is possibly a good choice if you like a belted cartridge. We are having huge success here in NZ with the new high BC 6.5 projectiles, in a number of different cartridges, there are plenty of options. A friend of mine has just built a 6.5-06 and is driving the 143gn ELDX at over 3100fps for some spectacular long range shots on game, and its is performing way above expectations and killing cleanly. Be interesting to see what you might get out of the 264.

    Not too sure about the bolt lapping thing, but hey as you say, many do it with a lathe and that definitely can take more off. So if it was me I wouldnt get too concerned.

    There is a Timney trigger that fits, there have been post on here before as to the correct model and how to fit it. I havent bothered with any on my 1600's cos its relatively easy to work the original trigger to a nice crisp letoff anyways.

    I would keep my barrel to 26" max - any more is just way too long for a good all round carry rifle, often 26" is too much. With a variation of powders you dont need the extra barrel length to get more speed. And speed is not your friend - accuracy is. Find a suitable projectile, load it for accuracy, find out its speed, then do the math and work out your trajectory, use a rangefinder, and if need be, dial.

    The 1600 action can be fitted to a large ring Boyds stock with a little bit of modification to mainly the mag inlet, and a good bedding job - works well. However lately I have been informed that Boyds do actually make a small ring stock, would be worth looking in to it.

    Dont overthink the task at hand, the 1600 action will work no problem, to me it sounds like a good fun project, keep us informed as you build, with pic's.
    Cheers,

  10. #9
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    I found a post finally where somebody detailed installing the Timney with side safety. Seems it's mainly stock inletting and bending the safety lever to clear the receiver, strangely they mentioned nothing about switching out cocking pieces? Since I'm going to custom fit and bed the Boyds when it arrives (if it ever arrives) this shouldn't be a problem. I plan on putting the stock on the milling machine to deal with the barrel channel anyways.

    3100 for a 143gn from a 6.5-06 seems impressive to me. I was hoping for between 3100 and 3200 from the 264 mag with 29" tube and slooow powders and 140's. These speeds are almost +300 FPS faster than what Nosler 7 suggests, although for some reason they use a 24" test barrel. I was contemplating shooting 160's at times, and wanted the extra barrel length to get the last little bit of speed without pushing pressures into the red. I guess I will see if barrel length is as big a factor in 264 WM velocity as some say...

    I'm interested in trying out the ELD-X, I understand they require a long magazine box and lots of throat length?

    Why on earth is there no 150 grain 6.5mm bullet option? Everything else seems to have it?

    I'm building this rifle for basically sitting at the treed edge of the gas line/powerline cut, alpine meadow, cutblock etc and taking longer shots from a bipod. Also occasional long range steel to about 1Km. If I need to carry a rifle, I'll grab my 24" barrel 6.5x55 or my wifes CZ 527 carbine. If the extra barrel bothers me, I can always put it up in the lathe and part it off...no biggie.

    Anyway, looks like my gunsmith friend is away for a few days for Christmas...I need to order a reamer and wait for the stock to show up. Not going to be a fast project this one. Suppose I could always open up the bolt face and grind the extractor back tomorrow

  11. #10

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    A number of my mates are using the 143ELDX, and none are using a longer mag box. And your 1600 has a pretty long mag box anyways. However I have heard there are a few shooters using a long mag box for the 6.5-284 in a med action. Way too much work for this boy, just use a long action! Again dont be too set on searching for the highest speed, 3100-3200 should be heaps and easily obtainable. But do strive for the utmost accuracy, and this may mean you have to drop 100fps or so. With the high BC bullets it is way more important that you know your ballistic's and are capable of using them, than an extra few fps.

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    My laptop just dumped my entire post, so...yeah, good advice Al. Load for accuracy, learn the curve and practice dialing/holdover, and don't get greedy with speed. Right now I'm focusing on getting the action set up, square and solid. Need it safe to run before I can run with it.

    If I remember correctly, my accuracy load for the 6.5x55 is somewhere between 1 and 1.5 gr below max..

  13. #12
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    6.5x06 is the same balistically as 6.5x284 and as such is an overbore cartridge.
    too much powder for the bore size.
    if you want something different, a better balanced cartridge is the .256 Newton (I have 2 of them on modern actions)
    joy to shoot.
    6.5 creedmore comes to mind as well.
    good luck w/project.

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    I put a commercial cocking piece and Tubbs 98 Mauser Speed Lock firing pin and spring in my 1640. I have a Tradewinds Timney trigger so don't know anything of modifying an aftermarket trigger to fit. Even with the Tradewinds trigger designed to fit it I had to bend the safety tab out a little bit so it wouldn't stick.

    264 is way overbore. It really won't do anything a mundane 270 won't unless you nitpick 100 fps and just a hair more SD and BC. If you can hit with a 264 at 500+ you can hit with a 270 to the same.
    How many psi in a CUP?

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    Quote Originally Posted by xroads View Post
    6.5x06 is the same balistically as 6.5x284 and as such is an overbore cartridge.
    too much powder for the bore size.
    if you want something different, a better balanced cartridge is the .256 Newton (I have 2 of them on modern actions)
    joy to shoot.
    6.5 creedmore comes to mind as well.
    good luck w/project.

    I'm not sure I understand, wasn't the 256 Newton actually the previous "version" of the 6.5-06? My buddy's Speer manual even describes it (the newton) as a cartridge that went from commercial status, to wildcat, then was re born as the again commercial 6.5-06 A square. Apparently they are so similar to each other that load data is interchangeable, but for some reason the cartridges no longer are. So I'm just curious why you would recommend the newton over the 6.5-06.

    If I was going to shoot a creedmore, I would simply build another 6.5x55.

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    Butting in here, the .256 Newton is slightly shorter, both overall and at the shoulder, than the 6.5-06. Not really enough to change load data but they are not interchangeable in any other way. The previous recommendation puzzles me as well.

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    I always felt common established cal.'s ( common through all my guns) with materials and commerical materials loaded ammo all...tied into supportive supplies across all my guns the best idea..
    I have mostly 30 cals. Reloading made easy.
    A few 243's, a 7 mag in my husquvarna and Carl Gustafs collection.
    By working in these cals I could share components on a poor teachers salary.
    Changing bullet weights loads for a pactulal need easier than picking up a new cal. In bolt action hunting gun.

    Now my modern rifles AR's I'm again staying so far in 233. Or AK's 762/39 same idea.....

    This proved a good idea during three smmo shortages that couldn't touch my stock piles ....in like cals.

    For 200 feet per sec. The deer wouldn't know, nor the target ...just an old mans view on economic shooting over 40 years.><> Dan

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    He WANTS a 264 Winchester. He doesn't have to justify it to me.
    My brother has an original Newton rifle in 256. Newton pushed the shoulder back to get a slightly longer neck and narrowed the shoulder for a bit more case taper, probably for easier feeding from the magazine or easier extraction in his rifle design. I've never read anything Newton wrote as to why. The differences with a 6.5-06 are quite visible. There is less case capacity than the 6.5-06 and that should be taken into consideration when reloading.
    All OT for this thread.
    Back OT:
    The 1640 is strong and should handle the 264 Winchester Magnum just fine. You might have to modify the feed rails some to get it to feed smoothly, just as a M98 might need them worked.
    How many psi in a CUP?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ordtech View Post
    The 1640 is strong and should handle the 264 Winchester Magnum just fine. You might have to modify the feed rails some to get it to feed smoothly, just as a M98 might need them worked.
    Yes, when you consider that they were factory made in .358 Norma and 7mm Rem Mag you will be fine. They were factory made in .270 Win which is loaded to higher pressure than the .264 WM.

    Over the years, I have amassed the parts to make a complete 1640 action with a magnum bolt (face). The two contenders are .338 WM or .264 WM.

    I already shoot the .260 6.5x55, 6.5x57, 6.5-06, and 6.5x65 RWS. Only real reason to build a .264 WM is that I can, oh, and I have several hundred cases with no rifle to shoot them in. Of course, I also have several hundred 338 WM cases as well.

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    Needs want and wishes all in the eyes of the owner and his money to do a job well!

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    Default some progress

    After being down with a wrist injury, Holiday commitments and a cold/flu, finally made some headway on this.

    Made a program to cut the magnum bolt face on the mill. After having a look online I came up with a sketch that widens the approach angles slightly, but maintains the "cup" on the left hand side of the bolt face that holds the cartridge rim in place when the extractor is putting inward pressure on it. Set up the bolt vertically in a V block in the mill vise, dialed the block to within .0005" and clamped in the bolt. Dialed center from the firing pin hole, hoping this is close enough, as it seemed impossible to get a good datum by sweeping the OD of the bolt...
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    My gunsmith friend, Quinn, did an absolutely amazing job contouring the extractor to fit. Bevelled it to ride over, kept the hook and polished it nicely. Oh, and took him about 5 minutes, too. It holds the .264 cartridge perfectly

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    In other news, I tried my hand at touch-up bluing with Super-Blue, I didn't have any fine steel wool, so in my drunken stupor I somehow thought that magic eraser would do the trick. Not so. After 4 or 5 sloppy coats of blue, I had this horrendous mottled finish all over the original bluing. In desperation, I rubbed a cloth into some white polishing compound and rubbed the receiver down like a pair of parade boots, unbelievably managing to remove the mottling, but keeping the original blue, and the now barely visible touch ups!
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    Boyd's prairie hunter laminate appeared yesterday. Red lines indicate where Mauser 98 and HVA 1640 don't match. Will also certainly need to relieve the barrel channel for the #6 contour and probably for the Timney and side safety when it shows up.
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    Extended LOP, because of my weirdly long arms.

    Enjoy!

    Edit: I forgot to mention, Quinn is suggesting I go with a M98 Detachable Box and bottom metal kit. Seems to think it will be an easy fit, and will also fit the stock inletting better than the HVA bottom alloy metal. I can't remember what brand it is at this moment, thoughts?

  22. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by z1r View Post
    Yes, when you consider that they were factory made in .358 Norma and 7mm Rem Mag you will be fine. They were factory made in .270 Win which is loaded to higher pressure than the .264 WM.

    Over the years, I have amassed the parts to make a complete 1640 action with a magnum bolt (face). The two contenders are .338 WM or .264 WM.

    I already shoot the .260 6.5x55, 6.5x57, 6.5-06, and 6.5x65 RWS. Only real reason to build a .264 WM is that I can, oh, and I have several hundred cases with no rifle to shoot them in. Of course, I also have several hundred 338 WM cases as well.

    I've always been fascinated by the 6.5x65. What's it like? I also considered .308 Norma Mag, seems like a good fit for the 1640 as well

  23. #22
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    Thoughts about bottom metal ....on an early Mauser action Parker hale 308 FN action (pre Santa Barbara.)
    I replaced stock and bottom with a MARK X (with the button mag. Release) made my custom rifle fitted to me by gun smith stocker friend added to the custom lines....less military.
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    Only custom gun I own fitted completely to my reach, cheek...(friend Doney Valley died few years later)
    wood old growth plantation out of Kentucky..
    near moorevill college... out in the country up a dirt road...on left.
    only gun "stock blank cutter" on east coast..... if he's still alive?

    I would go with the mark X bottom metel "if it can be fitted from a 98 to your HVA 1640".

  24. #23
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    With regards to bottom metal for the HVA 1640, would the likes of Swift/Blackburn, Sunny Hill, or Wiebe fit? How about the extended or "drop" depth units that allow an extra round? I recently picked up an Husqvarna 1651 and would like to upgrade some parts, have it re-finished, and re-stocked. The bottom metal is one of the main components I want to replace and I really like the looks of these after-market units.

    As far as stocks go, has anyone here had a McMillan stock fitted to their Husqvarna? If so, what model did you select?

    Thanks in advance for any insights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ninersfan View Post
    With regards to bottom metal for the HVA 1640, would the likes of Swift/Blackburn, Sunny Hill, or Wiebe fit? How about the extended or "drop" depth units that allow an extra round? I recently picked up an Husqvarna 1651 and would like to upgrade some parts, have it re-finished, and re-stocked. The bottom metal is one of the main components I want to replace and I really like the looks of these after-market units.

    As far as stocks go, has anyone here had a McMillan stock fitted to their Husqvarna? If so, what model did you select?

    Thanks in advance for any insights.
    Any bottom metal unit made for a 98 Mauser will NOT readily adapt. Unless one of those manufacturers makes a 1640 specific unit, you are stuck with what you have or making your own. The hole spacing is the same, little else is.

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    A good stock smith could fit the (98) or maybe easier the 96 Mauser bottom to it...?
    I fit a 96 action swede from a 98 stock snabble Parker hale stock by siles of Italy ..
    Stock From the above custom rifle....above.
    ...setting it to rear as far as it could go...
    glassing front of floor mag. Gap colored correctly ....Leaving this small moon shape area in front of action screw.....looked like a sporter with long barrel.
    Sold quickly ....
    many na Sayers ...very supprised.

    If you had the 98/or 96 bottoms infront of you you would see maybe a little easier.. how to fit final product.
    The area norrowing up front my have to be opened a little.to let it seat flush unnoticed change.

  27. #26
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    96 bottom metal won't fit, the action screw spacing is different.

    While the hole spacing on a 1640 is the same as a 98, the magazine box on a 1640 is located further forward that it is on a 98. So, bottom metal for a 98 would have to have the rear and front walls moved forward to fit properly. Yes, it can be done but not by a stock smith.

    1640 on top, 98 (Husqvarna 146) on bottom:





    98 stocks can be made to fit. I have made patterns using various 98 stocks before but they do require altering to fit the 1640. The steel bottom metal units fit better and require less alteration than the aluminum units.

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    Yes moved forward to fit...good example.
    96 to 98'moved backwards to fit as I did the 96 in a 98 stock.

    A good stock man and glass beding it forward even shaving a little out side metal below wood line would hedge the forward positing.....
    In a pinch holding the 98 action bottom end may be too much for a novice even an expert may see this very difficult to accomplishment....I'm too old can't see and stiff hands..
    .Been a while sense glassing, piller beding or pressure tipping barrels maybe 9 year So?
    I think also the inters in the trigger guard, action screws glass or relieving wood would be covered up by mag plate complety ...
    Much .much easier than my 96 military into a 98 snabble Mauser stock....
    No phone pictures in those days...

    So Listen to Z1 he's did in hands thinking ..
    for unless in hand .....could I figure if ......I COULD ATTEMPT THE FITTING?
    Thanks Z1

  29. #28
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    Well then, great info...

    I wasn't particularly set on the drop box anyways. I'm sure we could machine, weld, cut and butcher a functioning box into the thing. But cutting up a 250 dollar mag well? I could probably make one from scratch for what it's worth. i'm pretty sure the kit my smith buddy was recommending was the CDI precision one, as he mentioned it takes Accuracy International magazines. I really don't hate the alloy bottom metal that much anyway..

    Reamer showed up...Might chamber and thread the barrel this weekend. Timney also arrived, so I suppose I could start inletting and modding the stock to fit the action too. Looks like I need to either trim the bottom metal or open up the stock to get that to fit too.

    Pillaring...any good ideas how to deal with the front action screw on these?

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    Yes: leave enough wood in the piller to get your action hight stable.[ ^

    On both sides L-R almost cut through the wood pillar block>[] about thickness of un sharpened pencil.

    then cut front of wood pillar block back the thickness of three dimes width....

    All the way Down into the bottom....of wood....

    We're acton screw comes through, in front of recoil wood block..

    at very bottom add clay the thickness of half a unsharpened pencile ...
    this to keep the action lug from bottoming out bouncing on recoil.

    You can shoot it at this point ...leaving barrel channel as is!
    Shoot it...if ok satified then your done.

    If not getting pint point accuracy ..then see if free floating barrel or pressure tipping will help.

    or if three point piller beding is what that particular rifle needs turn out to be by adding glass to tang.
    I also turned rifles up side down and bed trigger guard were action screws come through...
    but that's just me and my OCD ness.

    30 years back Started doing this on rifles to us up glass left over that always went bad.
    Even on some forearms cut a grove channel...for stability.
    The grove thickness wide, deep as a pencil....and all way up to pressure tiped piller for barrel .at end of forearm....
    Just at first to use up leftover glass that goes bad.... Till I saw in some guns it was necessary.
    By stiffing stocks forearm keeping them from twisting warping changing impact.

    increasing accuracy by a great deal I have found out...
    Last edited by DK PHILLIPS; 01-21-2017 at 07:34 PM.

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    Ichiban,
    Give some thought to your end use for the rifle to see if you really need the detachable box mag. If you can live with the hinged floor plate, which is an improvement over the original mauser design ( exc 1909 Argentine, of course), then you should be able to open areas up as needed and fill voids (especially at rec ring) with a compound such as Devcon 10110, which would come pretty close to matching the gray colors in the lam stock. Make sure you have some clearance between top of bottom metal (mag well top edges and top of pillar) and bottom of action. Worse case, you can file down about .010" off top edges of bottom metal afterwards to restore clearances. As Dk Phillips says, tape, modeling clay and release agent are your friends, as is the most important part ...patience.

  32. #31
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    For bedding the stock, I was thinking I would make aluminum pillars, epoxy them into the stock and then fully glas bed/devcon the action and chamber area of the barrel. I did the same on my CZ 455, this way I'm not relying on the wood to control the pressure between the stock and action. Also, the bottom metal and mag well distance is set by the pillar height and action screw torque. No compression shrinkage or expansion due to temp and humidity messing around with things. Quinn suggests I mill the boss of the front of the bottom metal at the action screw and make a pillar that basically envelopes the boss on the bottom of the recoil lug. Rear pillar should be straight forward, but I'm not sure if the one that came with the rifle is the actual original, due to it being restocked?

    Anyone have a length dimension for the factory 1640 rear pillar?

    usherj
    Ichiban,
    Give some thought to your end use for the rifle to see if you really need the detachable box mag. If you can live with the hinged floor plate, which is an improvement over the original mauser design ( exc 1909 Argentine, of course), then you should be able to open areas up as needed and fill voids (especially at rec ring) with a compound such as Devcon 10110, which would come pretty close to matching the gray colors in the lam stock. Make sure you have some clearance between top of bottom metal (mag well top edges and top of pillar) and bottom of action. Worse case, you can file down about .010" off top edges of bottom metal afterwards to restore clearances. As Dk Phillips says, tape, modeling clay and release agent are your friends, as is the most important part ...patience.
    I think I can live without the DBM. For hunting, the rifle will be loaded, then walked in to the stalk/blind/whatever. For any bench use, there's all the time in the world to thumb in a few rounds. Even our designated ranges here don't get silly about having to single load and things like that, so factory magazine should be fine. It will never serve as a truck gun, so I won't have to worry about jumping out of a vehicle and stuffing rounds into it for a quick shot.

    I believe that Devcon product is what we are using. I did use it on my CZ and the grey should hopefully disappear, particularly around the receiver ring and tang, where the inletting doesn't quite match.

    In other news, I got around to turning up a mandrel and started checking out the receiver. Ended up with a rod .703" at one end, tapering out to about .706 at the other end. Locked the receiver on with a sight screw and cut the face, taking about .0045" to get a clean up. I tried 4 jawing the action to chase the threads out but couldn't get it to run good enough, so I'll build a double cat head fixture to properly hold it. Going to chase the threads to 60 degree form and also to cleanup and align them with the receiver face. Do most people take the threads out to .990"? 1.000"? I'd like to have a number to aim for when I cut the barrel threads and not have to guess...

  33. #32
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    Ichiban,
    Not sure about the oversize thread dimensions. I believe most folks just true up receiver face and take high spots off lug seats, then lap in the lugs. I have been re-considering my prior comment about the clearance at the top of the original front pillar. It appears the original design maintains the gap between the top of the box and receiver when the rear sleeve is used and the front pillar bottoms out on the bottom of the recoil lug. Bedding all at once with alum pillars secured in place with guard screws is good way to assure that job is stress free. Please continue to share your progress...your machining skills are impressive!!

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    No I don't have those measurements...
    Tell you the real truth, getting in to huskys earlie on I bought examples in 98% or better.
    Yes an occasional 95 to 96% ones till I got better ones.(years of patience).

    To my point...I've glassed many a gun for people and myself....
    Only ONE Husky...Mod. 3000. Small hair line crack following grain in tang....
    must had just started, wasn't very visable caught a glimps in the sun light.
    Newish nice grain over all very good looking gun.
    Cleaning it first time I found with action screws loose back and front?( how long I don't know, history of gun) and didn't talk much to dealer that day that I remembered.
    Rear stock Ferrel found missing?
    I replaced it with a standard Mauser ferrel cut to length.
    I glassed the defect with as little intrusion as possible and glassed ferrel in place.
    Left everything else factory.
    It shot great, sold it cause it wasn't org. Any more?
    Never did pick up another one to go with my 3100 with griffin Howell side mounts.

  35. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by z1r View Post
    96 bottom metal won't fit, the action screw spacing is different.

    While the hole spacing on a 1640 is the same as a 98, the magazine box on a 1640 is located further forward that it is on a 98. So, bottom metal for a 98 would have to have the rear and front walls moved forward to fit properly. Yes, it can be done but not by a stock smith.

    1640 on top, 98 (Husqvarna 146) on bottom:





    98 stocks can be made to fit. I have made patterns using various 98 stocks before but they do require altering to fit the 1640. The steel bottom metal units fit better and require less alteration than the aluminum units.


    This picture is an awesome reference. Yesterday we chased the receiver threads and cut and chambered the barrel to match. Thread major came out to almost exactly 1", 60 degree, 12 TPI. Man is that receiver hard....

    I ended up taking the 1.25" barrel chamber "bulge" down to 1.20". It now matches the edge of the receiver radius perfectly.

    So anyways, after starting to fit it together I realize that the latch assembly for the floor plate is going to interfere with the cross bolt in the Boyd's. Once I hog it out a bit, I'm considering looking at grinding/milling some material off of that latch mechanism for some added clearance. Also, the mag box and bottom metal will need the inletting in the stock blown way out to fit it. My concern is that once I fit the stock to the alloy 1640 bottom stuff, there won't be any going back in case I do eventually decide to run a drop box or m98 contour bottom metal. I'd prefer not to remove too much material from around the cross bolt either, to try and maintain some of its holding strength.

    There will be a pile of laminate machined out of the barrel channel, I'm thinking .75" ball nose end mill?

    Someday when I get a new phone I might get some pictures up haha.

    z1r, could you shoot me a measurement difference of the mag boxes you pictured earlier?

    I also figured out that I likely do have the factory rear action screw "ferrule", when I stick the bottom metal on the receiver and screw it together, I get a nice consistent .025"ish gap between the top of the mag box and the receiver bottom. I will base my rear pillar length off of this. Probably going to just forgo the front pillar and use what the bottom metal already has, and let the glass bedding do it's job.

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    By the way thanks for the interest and support guys!

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    Ichiban, you are making good progress! I wouldn't worry too much about the rear cross bolt. Even the front really isn't needed with the stronger laminate stock and bedding material. I wish I had a mill. I opened my bbl channel by tracing the contour and then repeatedly cutting out halfmoons along the line with an incanel gouge to prevent splitting. I'm at the same point bedding mine - all inlet and exterior shaped but debating the front pillar. Made a pillar but afraid to cut stub pillar off of floorplate. If I do, only a skins thinkness of aluminum will be under screw hole. If I go that way I'd have to leave a short stub, about 1/8" for strength. Will call the smith fort advice. Good luck. John

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    Quote Originally Posted by usherj View Post
    Ichiban, you are making good progress! I wouldn't worry too much about the rear cross bolt. Even the front really isn't needed with the stronger laminate stock and bedding material. I wish I had a mill. I opened my bbl channel by tracing the contour and then repeatedly cutting out halfmoons along the line with an incanel gouge to prevent splitting. I'm at the same point bedding mine - all inlet and exterior shaped but debating the front pillar. Made a pillar but afraid to cut stub pillar off of floorplate. If I do, only a skins thinkness of aluminum will be under screw hole. If I go that way I'd have to leave a short stub, about 1/8" for strength. Will call the smith fort advice. Good luck. John


    I'm thinking of leaving the front pillar alone, and just bedding above/below the thing. Rear pillar will get glued into the stock.

  39. #38
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    I just bedded mine last night, using a piece of 1/8 inch SS pipe for the rear and a stub pillar for the front, both held in place by the guard screws and set into the mud. There is mechanical lock issue to watch out for where the machining cut at the top edge of each side flat continues into the front ring - be sure to fill with clay. I didn't and it made for a tight extraction!

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    Front can be strengthen just by a drill bit size cut down on each front side or the wood.{|....|}
    Push glass into those to drilled out stripes keeping the interagency of hight width..........^...^

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    Quote Originally Posted by usherj View Post
    I just bedded mine last night, using a piece of 1/8 inch SS pipe for the rear and a stub pillar for the front, both held in place by the guard screws and set into the mud. There is mechanical lock issue to watch out for where the machining cut at the top edge of each side flat continues into the front ring - be sure to fill with clay. I didn't and it made for a tight extraction!
    Good to know! I see exactly where that would happen. Did you have to cut through the rear cross bolt?

    Quote Originally Posted by DK PHILLIPS View Post
    Front can be strengthen just by a drill bit size cut down on each front side or the wood.{|....|}
    Push glass into those to drilled out stripes keeping the interagency of hight width..........^...^
    Also good to know. I'm probably going to pillar the front anyway. I'm finding milling the laminate to be challenging. If you climb mill in, it seems to be fine. When you try to conventional mill it seems to blow apart and delaminate quite easily.

    Since there's room above the rear cross bolt between the mag box and the trigger, I think I will shape a block of aluminum and glue it in to compensate for all the wood I took out so the trap door release will fit.

    Also, the Timney trigger fits and functions perfectly, except for the side safety. All timney has to do is revise the safety or have it work with the original slide. I'm going to cut the safety lever and TIG it back on where I want it. I hate having to take off the safety to open the bolt, so that feature is getting eliminated.

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    Like the updates. Little info on things like the Timney Safety are good to know. Thanks.

    I put a Bold Trigger with safety on a 46 with a commercial flanged shroud from Brownell's. The flange would hit the safety lever and required some alteration. Grinding a small clearance cut was easier than cut and weld of the safety in that case.
    How many psi in a CUP?

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    Standard wood drill bit...use a sharpe nail make the measured witness-marks on both sides...same position and distance back through top down. Then fill with glass...
    I usually do three seperate drill reliefs left, middle, to right. Spaced evenly.
    Leaving the original recoil wood block intact: hight width, depth.
    That way no tilting of actions org. Configurations.
    Only glassed on husky....my thoughts loose action screws beat it out of specks!
    Sold it ....(it shot great).....as I collect 98% or better replacing it.

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    My stock had no crossbolts. Here is a pic of it so far. Still have to relieve the area in front of rear screw once action is fully assembled. The area in front of receiver was bedded with 2 layers of tape, so bbl has clearance. I did it that way to have cleaner transition area.
    Attachment 1953041

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    Photo,doesn't come upon clicking.
    Last edited by DK PHILLIPS; 02-11-2017 at 04:05 PM.

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