Need help with 1911-A1 FTRB
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Thread: Need help with 1911-A1 FTRB

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Ohio, near Dayton
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    63

    Default Need help with 1911-A1 FTRB

    I have a friend's 25 yr. old Springfield armory 1911-A1 which has become unreliable of late. It will occasionally fail to return to battery. This happens most often with a full or mostly full magazine.

    To try and eliminate some possibilities, we have used both the factory magazine and a brand new Kimber Kim-pro magazine...same results. We have only used FMJ ball 230 grain ammo, but from several different manufacturers (Winchester, Federal, Remington)...same results.

    It definitely feels like there is some hang up, or friction as the slide closes on a round...kind of a "ka-chunk" that is noticeable. I have used 7 rounds to cycle through for testing by manually working the slide, and they have all had the projectile shoved further into the case by about .070" for some reason.

    I have attached pictures of what it looks like when this happens, the round seems to enter the chamber about halfway and then hang up. I have looked into the chamber for roughness or burrs...appears smooth to me. If I push lightly on the back of the slide, she goes home just fine.

    I'm hoping someone will have some suggestions on what to look for. Thank you!

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    "This hand, hostile to tyrants, seeks with the sword a quiet peace under liberty", -Algernon Sidney, 1659

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    central Ks
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    Default

    Does NO-ONE ever replace recoil springs?

    Beyond that,, the extractor needs to be undamaged, and not excessively tight to the case. The case MUST slide up under the hook (but not be loose).

    The rear of the chamber cutaway must never extend rearward past the frame part of the feed ramp, absolute minimum, 1/32" fwd of the frame ramp edge.

    .45 Auto needs a taper crimp on it, crimp the very edge case mouth to .468" to .470" and it will stop pushing back.
    I don't always venture out into the sub-freezing darkness, but when I do, it is hunting season, and I carry a Browning. Stay hungry my friends.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Oldsmar, FL (Tampa Bay)
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    Default

    Most common causes:
    Dirty chamber, ammo over specifications, bullet seated out too much, chamber too tight, chamber too shallow. Check for leading! Someone may have used cast bullets and it can be tough to see.

    If the recoil spring is worn out you will usually get too violent an ejection first, with the cases tossed back well beyond 6 feet. (less than 3 feet means the spring is too heavy) Springs have a limited life but will usually last 2000 rounds even in competition pistols and 2x that or more for just hacking around.

    By all means get the proper spring weight, Colt spec. http://www.m1911.org/technic1.htm Except I'm not a big fan of Shok-buffs as I've had a couple come apart early and they can cause a jam.

    Usually ejector or drag problems show up with extraction jams.
    211 BC: I swear by Jupiter Optimus Maximus .... in the army of the consul Gnaeus Fulvius Centumalus Maximus and for 10 miles around it I will not steal anything worth more than a denarius in any one day.

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  5. #4
    Join Date
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    central Ks
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    I replace Shok-Buffs every 500 rounds, never had one come apart.
    I don't always venture out into the sub-freezing darkness, but when I do, it is hunting season, and I carry a Browning. Stay hungry my friends.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    In my mind!
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    Default

    Steel wool your chamber with gun cleaner .especially the leading edge rim. Throat.,
    Steel wool your ramp with gun cleaner....
    Molybidium dimsufate you rails slide two frame.
    Use another mag. Compair results.

    Get rid of buffers when not target shooting. They can change timing.
    Last edited by DK PHILLIPS; 02-14-2017 at 06:36 PM.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Ohio, near Dayton
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    Default

    Follow-up:

    Thanks all for the suggestions. I completely stripped the pistol and cleaned it well...it didn't look as if the extractor had ever been removed and cleaned. I'm not using shok-buffs. I bought a new 16lb. recoil spring (which ended up being about 1" longer than the spring that was in there) and installed it. I took a brush and wrapped copper wool around it, soaked it in bore cleaner and worked it heavily through the entire chamber and barrel repeatedly. The chamber and bore look pristine under a magnifier. Cleaned everything, applied a light lube and tested.

    First mag...no failures. Second mag...one FTRB. Third mag...would not return to battery at all, even cycling the action by hand. Again using factory Winchester ammo.

    I am leaning towards a new extractor; opinions?
    "This hand, hostile to tyrants, seeks with the sword a quiet peace under liberty", -Algernon Sidney, 1659

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