I am hooked, my first Husqvarna, input needed
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Thread: I am hooked, my first Husqvarna, input needed

  1. #1

    Default I am hooked, my first Husqvarna, input needed

    20.5 inch barrel 30-06. Barrel serial # 2207XX. No stock cracks, just some bumps and bruises. Stock shortened for a butt pad. Some scratches on the barrel. It needs a good cleaning as the action screws look like it may have never been out of the stock. I'll need a rear sight as I don't think I'll put a scope on this one as the stock is in solid shape and the eye alignment is very nice. Trigger pull is at 4# but the mechanism is full of gunk. Hopefully I will be able to pick up another one in .308 or .243 as I think they are near perfection. Perfiection is a CRF with a tang safety (no, Ruger don't cut it)


    First off, can anyone help me with determining what do I have for sure?
    What should I do with the stock; glass bed, free float the barrel, etc? Yes, I can do all this myself and clean up the trigger.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20170311_111333142[1].jpg   IMG_20170311_111354302[1].jpg   IMG_20170311_111409240[1].jpg   IMG_20170311_111436681[1].jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    152

    Default

    deadi,

    Congratulations on the fine rifle. It looks like you have a Husqvarna model 4100. It appears to have been manufactured in about 1958. I am a fan of glass bedding around the recoil lug, especially on something like a .30-06. I worry about any wood stock cracking with time. That is just my opinion. Be cautious in any event as the trigger guard assembly is cast aluminum. They are breakable. As for any additional touches like floating the barrel, to each their own. In some of the Tradewinds catalogs I have the 4100 wore a adjustable rear sight with a three position elevator. Is there evidence on the barrel of an elevator rubbing? Hopefully some of the other members can help verify my information and sight type here. Sights do pop up for sale on ebay and such places on occasion if you are looking. Or send me a message if you want and I will see what I have in the parts bin. I wish you good luck with the rifle. I am sure it will serve you well in the woods.

    Regards,
    kirkp

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    542

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KirkP View Post
    deadi,

    Congratulations on the fine rifle. ........ I am a fan of glass bedding around the recoil lug, especially on something like a .30-06. I worry about any wood stock cracking with time. That is just my opinion.
    Regards,
    kirkp
    I agree, I glass bed mine and make sure that there is some clearance at the rear tang. Husqvarna's are prone to setting back the recoil lug in the stock, when that happens, the tang contacts the wood and cracks the stock just behind the tang. You see this more often in rifles that have been shot. Collector grade rifles less so.

    I see this model referred to as a 1600K. Seems to me the model designation varies depending on who the retailer was and on the market.

    As I said, I like to glass bed the action. If shots fine, that's all I do. If I find it doesn't shoot, then I will look for pressure points in the barrel channel.

    Anyway, you have great rifle, enjoy.

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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In my WVA mind!
    Posts
    27,128

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    No problems with what's been said...all mine org. Down to bedding...
    Accurate guns...keep screws tight no problems....
    only glassed i. used on one with start of grain crack...
    Bought with loose screws found when cleaning going over it first week.
    Yours: has Pad added.
    Molybidium I use on in trigger contacts has worked wonderfully for me....!
    Last edited by DK PHILLIPS; 03-17-2017 at 04:53 AM.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Bolivia or North
    Posts
    2,029

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    Isn't it a 1640 Special if it has the cheekpiece?
    I have two 1640's. Great guns, accurate and slick action.
    Like KirkP and Z1r said, glass at least the recoil lug and make sure there's a hair's clearance around the rear tang.
    I like to glass a blind crossbolt into mine at the recoil lug. I also glass from the front of the chamber back so the first straight part of the barrel, front receiver ring, and recoil lug are all supported by one homogeneous glass bedding. I float the barrel from the chamber forward. Others have other preferences just like cake recipes. I don't know what's "best", just what appears to work for me.
    How many psi in a CUP?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Winterland, Canada
    Posts
    1,927

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    No, it's a 4100 because of the fore end checkering.
    Coagula / Solve

    Baribal; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baribal

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Bolivia or North
    Posts
    2,029

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    Quote Originally Posted by Baribal View Post
    No, it's a 4100 because of the fore end checkering.
    Thank you. I need to pay attention.
    D
    How many psi in a CUP?

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