Persian Mauser Project
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Thread: Persian Mauser Project

  1. #1
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    Default Persian Mauser Project

    Sooo yeah I bought one of those "Fair" Persians from Classic for $499 recently. What was I thinking? Well, the Persian that I've had for a while happens to be my most accurate military rifle.(It's close vs a few of my Swedes.) That is saying a lot, as I purposely seek out accurate rifles. The thought of rescuing one of these and/or discovering a "diamond in the rough" appealed to me in a moment of weakness. Figured I could always send it back if the bore was corroded.
    I ended up with the one at the end of the table which Ben called "good other than the rust at the end of the barrel."
    The Good: The barrel was packed with cosmoline. Because of that, the bore is LIKE NEW all the way to the crown. Parts of it will clean up well. Some other parts that won't clean up can be replaced, as parts are available. Much of the exposed metal is in good shape, including the receiver.
    The Bad: Corrosion under the wood line. Water damage I'm sure. I knew that many Samco rifles had this issue so I'm not surprised. The upper handguard retainer clip was rusted/broken. I ordered a new handguard with clip for $15 from Numrich. Rear and Front Sight bases have rust issues. I ordered those parts as well. (Parts were inexpensive.) Some of the wood on the buttstock will be dark stained by water damage much like a K31.
    I have a bunch of work cleaning this rifle/removing rust/treating metal and replacing a few parts. Here are before pics. Look at those cosmo-worms! Yes, there are two of them. I almost got a third, lol.
    Question #1: how to remove and replace front sight base? This is a pretty unique piece. I assume it's soldered? Would be able to torch and knock off this part relatively easily? I assume the rear sight base is also soldered.
    Question #2: as stated the bore is great all the way to the end, but the crown has a "little bit" of frosting on it. Nothing that should affect shooting but cosmetically it could use a touch-up. Where would I find some type of crowning tool that might just polish the crown a bit?



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  2. #2
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    Looking forward to seeing it all cleaned up, should turn out nice.

  3. #3
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    Front and rear sight bases will be soldered. Both should have "lock" screws indexing them in place. A Mapp torch will take them off without issue. You do not need to get them very hot. Heat the barrel evenly, not the sight base.

    Electrolysis is your friend with a project like this, unfortunately it cannot replace metal.

    For the stock I would recommend a white scotch brite cleansing pad. It will remove the mold/crud on the wood, but not effect the finish of the intact wood very much.

    What I can see the rust/corrosion is minor, you may have some pitting, but I wouldn't suspect much.

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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    Front and rear sight bases will be soldered. Both should have "lock" screws indexing them in place. A Mapp torch will take them off without issue. You do not need to get them very hot. Heat the barrel evenly, not the sight base.

    Electrolysis is your friend with a project like this, unfortunately it cannot replace metal.

    For the stock I would recommend a white scotch brite cleansing pad. It will remove the mold/crud on the wood, but not effect the finish of the intact wood very much.

    What I can see the rust/corrosion is minor, you may have some pitting, but I wouldn't suspect much.
    Thanks, any input on the crown?

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  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    Front and rear sight bases will be soldered. Both should have "lock" screws indexing them in place. A Mapp torch will take them off without issue. You do not need to get them very hot. Heat the barrel evenly, not the sight base...................
    Good advice. But, be sure to loosen the set screws before attempting to remove the sights. The front sight will require removal for access, the screw is located under it.

    The crown looks okay, there may be a small amount of light pitting but nothing significant that will affect accuracy.

  7. #6
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    Yes, thank you TP for that clarification! I should have been more clear . . .

    I was going to say about the crown, that we cannot really SEE the crown! Get it cleaned up and see what it really looks like. Shoot it and see how it shoots.

    I have found that ammunition is a larger part of accuracy than anything. I always relate the story of a 260 I had. I had worked loads up and was happy with the 5/8" group I was shooting with it. I took it down to a friends who is far more competent at reloading than I. I do not think he owns a rifle you can buy brass or loaded ammunition for. In the course of less than an hour he had my groups down to less than 1/2". I did all the shooting.

  8. #7
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    For a project its no doubt fun. But century sold off hundreds of these recently in good to excellent and some unissued condition for sub $800.. So if you're wanting a project I'd say you did well as projects can be a great time killer. But I'd have honestly spent an extra $100-200 and grabbed one off gunbroker.. Just my two cents.

    Also most Samco Persians you will find a spot of rust halfway down the barrel, another bit of rust on the rear sight and some rust at the crown. After seeing around 50 examples I noticed most of them all shared this characteristic.

    My advice would be to strip the rifle down completely, use mineral spirits sparingly with lots of papertowels.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncreptile View Post
    For a project its no doubt fun. But century sold off hundreds of these recently in good to excellent and some unissued condition for sub $800.. So if you're wanting a project I'd say you did well as projects can be a great time killer. But I'd have honestly spent an extra $100-200 and grabbed one off gunbroker.. Just my two cents.

    Also most Samco Persians you will find a spot of rust halfway down the barrel, another bit of rust on the rear sight and some rust at the crown. After seeing around 50 examples I noticed most of them all shared this characteristic.

    My advice would be to strip the rifle down completely, use mineral spirits sparingly with lots of papertowels.
    NC, I think you are a bit optimistic about what can be had right now for $600-700 on gunbroker. Here is the lowest price I found, sold for $850 and it's actually worse than mine. (Dark bore and something is really wrong with the bluing on the receiver.) I'm actually done cleaning it up and may or may not torch off those rusty parts. And yes, I have a rust spot above the wood line half-way down the barrel as you mentioned...strange.


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    Last edited by Gustro79; 03-14-2017 at 12:22 PM.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gustro79 View Post
    NC, I think you are a bit optimistic about what can be had right now for $600-700 on gunbroker. Here is the lowest price I found, sold for $850 and it's actually worse than mine. (Dark bore and something is really wrong with the bluing on the receiver.) I'm actually done cleaning it up and may or may not torch off those rusty parts. And yes, I have a rust spot above the wood line half-way down the barrel as you mentioned...strange.


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    You're happy with it, that's all that matters. I was offered these rifles(I believe there were 15 of them) and passed.
    You would not happen to be Gus from FL would you?

  11. #10
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    I'll be happy with it if it's a tack driver. And no, I'm up in WI.

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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TP View Post
    Good advice. But, be sure to loosen the set screws before attempting to remove the sights. The front sight will require removal for access, the screw is located under it.

    The crown looks okay, there may be a small amount of light pitting but nothing significant that will affect accuracy.
    Would you add more solder or will there be enough to re-use?

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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gustro79 View Post
    Would you add more solder or will there be enough to re-use?

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    When I changed the one on my Argentine 1909 I did not have to add any

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gustro79 View Post
    Would you add more solder or will there be enough to re-use?

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    You can try, but best to heat and wipe the remaining old solder off then apply new solder to the ring and barrel.

  15. #14
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    If that one is a samco marked ones , you got one of their hurricane damaged specials seems part of their warehouse where those were stored got damaged and rained in , as I remember talking to their order rep and they didnt get time to clean all of them up and dry them out very well. The ones I bought back in the 80`s or 90`s were real nice. Aaron

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TP View Post
    You can try, but best to heat and wipe the remaining old solder off then apply new solder to the ring and barrel.
    What he said.

    Typically when you heat the rear sight base the solder will flow. You will get some that beads up and tries to escape the joint. If you look closely, you will see that the sight base was tinned prior to soldering, and there is no solder on the barrel other than where the sight is.

    The solder that was used by DWM and Mauser is a very soft low temp solder. It does not take much heat to loosen it up.

  17. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    What he said.

    Typically when you heat the rear sight base the solder will flow. You will get some that beads up and tries to escape the joint. If you look closely, you will see that the sight base was tinned prior to soldering, and there is no solder on the barrel other than where the sight is.

    The solder that was used by DWM and Mauser is a very soft low temp solder. It does not take much heat to loosen it up.
    Progress.


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  18. #17
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    Of course not period correct, but l've found Loctite blue locking agent does a pretty good job as well.

    Regards
    Marty


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    I think I would swap the rear base, but just clean up the front base.

    They were hot salt blued, though the chemical composition was different, so the modern salts won't give *quite* the same color.

    mwt is correct, though you will need to remove all of the original solder first. I prefer Green, I *think* 680. Course the next guy won't...

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    I think I would swap the rear base, but just clean up the front base.

    They were hot salt blued, though the chemical composition was different, so the modern salts won't give *quite* the same color.

    mwt is correct, though you will need to remove all of the original solder first. I prefer Green, I *think* 680. Course the next guy won't...
    I ordered an entirely new front sight base and rear sight base and I believe they're blued already...NOS

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  21. #20
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    If you got a rifle with a pristine bore then I think you did well. The front base and rear sight aren't that big a deal and you got virtually new replacements for little money. The black water spots in the butt can be removed with a dilute solution of wood bleach (oxalic acid) available at a paint store.

  22. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobVZ View Post
    If you got a rifle with a pristine bore then I think you did well. The front base and rear sight aren't that big a deal and you got virtually new replacements for little money. The black water spots in the butt can be removed with a dilute solution of wood bleach (oxalic acid) available at a paint store.
    Agreed, in my mind the main risk was the bore. If the bore was bad it would be going back and I would be out the shipping cost. Thanks for the advice on the wood!

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  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    I think I would swap the rear base, but just clean up the front base.

    They were hot salt blued, though the chemical composition was different, so the modern salts won't give *quite* the same color.

    mwt is correct, though you will need to remove all of the original solder first. I prefer Green, I *think* 680. Course the next guy won't...
    NOS just arrived. Looks great!


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  24. #23
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    Indeed! Are those from Numrich? Or where from?

    Thanks

  25. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    Indeed! Are those from Numrich? Or where from?

    Thanks
    Yes, Numrich. Top handguard also arrived. Looks really good also and the color matches pretty darn close to the rest of the wood. (I asked them for a medium-brown tone.)
    I have about $60 into the parts. Great pricing for what these parts are.

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  26. #25
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    Look forward to seeing this one put back together.

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