1893 Turkish Mauser Question
Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: 1893 Turkish Mauser Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    103

    Default 1893 Turkish Mauser Question

    Are the 1893 Turkish Mauser variants with the original straight stock and the magazine cutoff remainder showing considered more desirable than the ones with the newer pistol grip type stocks?

    Thanks.

    Joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    367

    Default

    I find them more desirable.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Bienville, LA
    Posts
    2,232

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    I find them more desirable.
    Me too



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. Remove Advertisements
    GunBoards.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Cinci, Ohio
    Posts
    2,483

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mwt View Post
    Me too
    As do I.







    In Memorium:
    LST 941 - GM1c

    You can view pics of my collection here.

  6. #5
    geladen's Avatar
    geladen is offline Platinum Bullet Member and Curmudgeon-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    11,263

    Default

    Are they closer to being original? Yes. Does that make them more desirable? Yes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Turkish M1893 1.JPG   Turkish M1893 3.JPG   Turkish M1893 4.JPG   Turkish M1893 5.JPG   Turkish M1893 6.JPG  
    Every post I make is made with a request for corrections. I'm here to learn.

    Regards,
    Bill


    III, GOA Life





  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    7,226

    Default

    I prefer the Original M93 with untouched Cut off, Original Script Markings, and CALIBER 7,65x53, but a M93/33 7,9mm Conversion one has to go for the straight stock, renove3d Cut-off Button, and script on side, ASFA ANKARA 1933-35 on top ( after that they started to change to Pistol Grip M903 type stocks, and other "improvements").

    Doc AV
    Sultan of Turcomania....

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    N. VA
    Posts
    6,995

    Default

    I have one of each refurb style with Turk matching bolts

    I found the straight stocks did not carry any premium, if anything they were less in demand due to poorer condition

    SakoRick's example is a nice one

    Both Geladens and GreenMan's examples show well the reason the straight stocks were commonly switched

    The square cut out in stock for the mag cut off facilitates cracks to form..usually to the crossbolt but commonly a crack will be found emanating rearward from the lower back corner of the stock cut out as well

    Even tho SakoRick's rifle has no Crossbolt (added by the Turks) you can still see a hairline crack heading rearward from the back lower corner of the mag cut off housing
    "There is no safety for honest men, but by believing all possible evil of evil men, and by acting with promptitude, decision, and steadiness on that belief." (Edmund Burke)

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Bienville, LA
    Posts
    2,232

    Default

    Mine is not cracked but don't shoot it much for that reason-mine has no reinforcing cross bolt.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Oldsmar, FL (Tampa Bay)
    Posts
    29,526

    Default

    In the same condition they are more desirable. The cutout is a weak point but a lot of the pistol grip stocks were improperly dried and/or laid out and have cracked too.
    I download Turk ammo for mine by about 20% - helps reduce the damage from a blown primer and I guess will help with the recoil setback too.
    211 BC: I swear by Jupiter Optimus Maximus .... in the army of the consul Gnaeus Fulvius Centumalus Maximus and for 10 miles around it I will not steal anything worth more than a denarius in any one day.

    2016 AD: To enhance our community's aggregate through multi-platform metrics of media synergy catalyzing integrated outcomes of macro-disciplines toward inclusive methodology paradigms generating positive algorithms of unwavering commitment to our children, the flag, and God.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    367

    Default

    I have gotten to the point that with any Turk I plan on shooting, I skim bed the stock with devcon. Actually that is true for most older rifles, mausers in general. I have seen so many mausers cracked over the years. I used to use acraglas, then acragel, but anymore devcon is just such a better product. Now on a high end mauser with good inletting, you cant even see the devcon which is nice.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Fal Grunt,

    I found devcon plastic steel bedding compound on midway. Do you use putty or liquid? They mention imperial sizing wax, which I have, as a release compound. Is that ok? What do you use?
    Is the 2 oz liquid just for cracks not bedding?

    They mention removing the trigger, I guess so it is easier to plug the hole?

    When you skim bed, do you actually put the reciever back in like full bedding, or just skim coat the inside of the stock?

    I bought some acra gel last year, planning to bed a beater rifle for practice. Should I use that up first or just switch?

    Read that bedding compound does not stick to oily wood and thought that old turk stocks might be a problem and that bedding would only apply to new sporter stocks? Need to clean or degrease turk stocks?

    Thanks.

    Joe

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    367

    Default

    I suppose I could write up a tutorial. I am no expert, I still send some of my rifles out to be bedded.

    Would anyone else find that useful?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Fal Grunt,

    I didn't mean to cause you a lot of extra work or to be lazy expecting you to write detailed instructions. There seem to be quite a few writeups and you tube videos on bedding and devcon.

    If you want to write some tips that would be great, but I know you are busy and I don't want to be a total information leech. I appreciate all the help and advice you have been giving me and don't want to be a bother.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Beautiful NW Arkansas-Go Hogs
    Posts
    1,100

    Default

    Yep. Saw one like that at a pawn shop today..........'course the had it priced @350 so................
    befus

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Google is my friend.
    I now understand what skim bedding is and have found several detailed write ups of the process.
    My main outstanding question is how to degrease the wood prior to bedding.
    If I go with devcon I plan to use the putty rather than the liquid.
    When it gets warmer I can try it out on the junk stock I bought or on my beater turk first. Given that I have more projects in mind than I can handle it may be a couple months before I try this.

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    367

    Default

    It is not a problem. Just have to make a note and fit it in when I have some free time.

    A few quick notes, if you enter this into amazon: Devcon Plastic, Steel Epoxy Putty 1 Lb 10110 This is the type Devcon I purchase. Best price I have found as well. I use clear shoe polish, wipe on a good coat, let it dry, and if I want a REALLY nice bedding job, buff the shoe polish just like a shoe. Not too much though...

    You'll want to strip the action down. You can buy an insert, I think brownells sells one, that will help mold the excess. On something like a Mauser I just put a light skim coat. I do usually try to clean up the wood with either alcohol, or my preferred is stoddard solvent. Any degreasing type product will work, but the more aggressive you risk damaging the wood. Depending on the condition of the wood, you can make cuts into the wood, think dovetails or similar, to give the devcon a mechanical lock.

    When I say skim bed, I just put a light coat on the inside of the stock and set the action in. I just want to add some support. I have seen plenty of mausers after decades of use, wood shrinkage, the actions are literally LOOSE with little to no contact with their original bedding surfaces.

    Here are two pictures of a Turk I did recently. It had lots of cracks and other issues with the wood. Decided it would be a shooter and so I bedded the action. You can see I did not bed for 100% contact, just surfaces where the action may move during recoil or impart stress. You can see how sloppy this action was in the stock. I have done higher end guns where from the top, you can not see any bedding compound, but upon removal of the action you can see the cuts where it tapers out.

    Attachment 2047130Attachment 2047138Attachment 2047154

  18. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Thanks.
    For my turk with sewer pipe barrel (miracle it shoots 2 moa) all I really want to do is fix the hairline crack and prevent further cracking. What you describe seems to fit the bill.

  19. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Oldsmar, FL (Tampa Bay)
    Posts
    29,526

    Default

    Devcon is an epoxy and epoxy is pretty oil tolerant. Any wax will work for a release agent. And modeling clay can be used to fill any areas on the action that may lock it in to the bedding.
    If your cracks are in a high load area they should be pinned. Otherwise you may get more cracking right alongside the glue line.
    If you have Acraglas already don't discard it. It's an excellent bedding compound too and both it and Devcon are substantially stronger than the wood so you don't have to be picky.
    211 BC: I swear by Jupiter Optimus Maximus .... in the army of the consul Gnaeus Fulvius Centumalus Maximus and for 10 miles around it I will not steal anything worth more than a denarius in any one day.

    2016 AD: To enhance our community's aggregate through multi-platform metrics of media synergy catalyzing integrated outcomes of macro-disciplines toward inclusive methodology paradigms generating positive algorithms of unwavering commitment to our children, the flag, and God.

  20. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    103

    Default

    jk308,

    Thanks for the advice. I bought a series of very thin brass rods last week to use for pinning and any day now some small diameter drill bits will arrive, so I should be good to go for pinning. I also bought some steel shim material in case I need to got the soda can route with the cross bolt to receiver gap.

  21. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    618

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheGreenMan View Post
    As do I.



    Is that a functioning cut-off on yours? Never seen the cut-off lever on an updated M93 before.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •