On bedding 1600
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Thread: On bedding 1600

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    125

    Default On bedding 1600

    I have been considering bedding my 456. Will bedding the front ring to the chamber be sufficient or do I need to bed the whole action? Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Bolivia or North
    Posts
    2,040

    Default

    Hi JDL,
    I did mine from the chamber back to the recoil lug. It's important to glass the lug to prevent setback commonly found in old stocks. Oil and bore cleaner sometimes gets down in there, repeated firing can set it back over time. Just insurance the action won't move back on impulse of firing and crack the stock in front of the magazine cutout and rear tang.
    This will give you one solid bed that will prevent movement and flexing when fired.
    Also, make sure there is a hairline space at the back of the receiver tang to prevent cracking there as the impulse of firing pushing the action back can crack it there.

    What you can't see is a steel bar glassed in the recoil shelf, like a hidden crossbolt. It's a poor iPhone photo. You can actually read the numbers and has a perfect imprint of the crown symbol in the Acraglass.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Ordtech; 03-17-2017 at 01:09 PM.
    How many psi in a CUP?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Australia, NSW - Central Tablelands/Hunter Valley
    Posts
    71

    Default

    timely thread, I've been thinking about doing my 1640K. Any reason you wouldn't treat it like a 98 in regards to bedding? I'm thinking full action bed including bottom metal. Debating pillars... Why do people use alloy instead of steel? Have devcon steel putty - worked wonders on a 98 I used to own

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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In my WVA mind!
    Posts
    27,532

    Cool

    Oil, cleaner, loosing bedding screws. Is what usually gets the block to compress...

    I may add every one of my rifles still owned newish...and the 95% I use to own in the beginning of my collecting endeavors ....shot better, off the bench with young eyes, than most guns today.
    180 to 165 grain 308, 3006, 300 mag.my hand loads to factory federal and Rem old bronze points.
    Shooting out To 100 years. Clusters amazed me others in those days.
    Never had one that grouped over 1/2 mostly less.

    I've grown to love 1900 actions ahead of its time looks, fit finish INSIDE out.
    1600 HVA actions are my second love....lighter than plastic guns of today!

    Never have I seen one brake while shooting in my hands?
    Only had one bought 3100 with grain splits (--) about that long.
    So I glassed it there and in lug area only!
    It's shot excellent...but I was looking by that time unmolested 98% ers or new in box.
    Had every type of brand rifles all over Europe ...Austrian German Voere's , klingunthers,
    Manlickers...model 70 pre 64 super grades Sako's....all fell short of accuracy compaired.
    Just reciently sako TIkka varminter, 223 bull barrel is coming the closest in accuracy.
    And trigger too smooth....will put 50 millimeter Leopold doom to correct visual problems.
    my eyes my ability at 60 years plus a variable...
    I glassed near 45 plus rifles tuning them up or cracks...ever company you can name.
    Only one husky!
    Releasing undercutting the tang slightly may be the only thing needing to be done.
    Very tight beding of the actions by the company I think causes along with loose action screws,
    SRINKING gets my vote NOT POOR INLETTING, or rear furrel placmentment by excellent crafts men in those days.
    No offense to any one or any body on this forum!
    Proud owner ><> Daniel
    Just my thought voiced here many time in many many years.
    Last edited by DK PHILLIPS; 03-19-2017 at 08:45 PM.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Beautiful bedding job Ordtech!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In my WVA mind!
    Posts
    27,532

    Default

    Yes clean job.

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