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Remington 1903 questions and bolt markings questions.

9K views 51 replies 15 participants last post by  Planejumper 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, so I picked up a Remington 1903 today, and it's got some things I'm curious on.
first off, the finish metal is a shiny brown? What the hell is this??

next the bolt has markings I'm unaware of.

also curious of value you would place it at, wanting to make sure I got a good price.

thanks for any help
 

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#4 ·
Has the receiver been buffed or is that oil you've applied? The rifle is a mixmaster and I agree, a "straight" bolt. Remington bolts had a "swept" handle and an R stamp under the bolt handle. If you look on all sides of the safety lug halfway up the bolt handle, there should be a letter or letter/number that would identify the bolt.
 
#7 ·
There re is absolutely no markings other than that pacman looking mark. It's honestly the strangest bolt I've ever seen. The finish is just like that, looks like polished. As dumb as this may sound, could it possibly be Greek bolt? I'm not sure if they made any parts. Most parts are Remington on the rifle, I have heard that later 1903 Remington would have a mix of stamped 03A3 parts and milled parts, I know the rear sight is perry pointe replacement. Obviously scant stock is a replacement as well.
 

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#5 ·
The receiver appears to have been buffed and some type of cold blue applied. I have not seen the bolt mark before. The safety appears to be an 03A3 variety. What is the barrel date and maker? Better pics of the bolt and rifle would be required to evaluate further. My guess is a put together rifle. May be a good shooter but not a collector. JMHO though.

John O.
 
#8 ·
the barrel is a Remington 8-42

RA
8-42

actually bought it as a shooter/reenacting rifle, the bore looks to be in great shape. Shinny and strong rifling. I don't have a muzzle gauge but did a bullet test, seems to be well within acceptable. I'll be taking it to the gun show in a month to see if someone can get a proper reading on it.
 
#6 ·
It's a very strange looking refinish. I've never seen that hue on an 03 receiver before.

For value? It is going to rest at the price you payed. For most serious collectors, a refinished gun is not considered for purchase unless it is very low priced, or the gun has a part which is needed.

Now, for a shooter. I can appreciate that the days of $2-300 parts guns are long gone. If the bore is good and all other parts/functions check out (be sure the bolt has a steel lot code with double heat treatment), it could be a $4-600 range gun.
 
#12 ·
The picture angle from the top of the handle does confirm that it is a straight bolt. The swept bolt would curve toward the rear on the knob end.

Check the following link for bolt steel lot codes. Some Springfield bolts from 1903 and Rock Island from 1905-1908 will not have any steel lot markings. I suspect your straight handled bolt might come from one of those two possibilities.

http://www.vishooter.net/m1903.html
 
#14 ·
ive read somewhere, can't remember where that just like low number receivers you "shouldn't use" these. Any truth to these statements? Also is there any value to the bolt? I wouldn't mind replacing it all together, and have a B&S ww2 era replacement bolt I'm thinking about just subbing out for this one.
 
#28 ·
This. It looks like a rifle that was sporterized and later returned to military configuration to get more money.

I have read in a number of sources that very, very early Remington bolts from their M1903 production (under the first 250 made) did have straight handles but also the R at the root of the bolt handle. These rifles are very rare and very expensive, and a collectors dream. The bolts are safe, but given the fakery out there, and the possibility that someone would R mark a bolt, I would still be cautious even with an R.
 
#15 ·
Also would anyone know if it's possible to remove the shine in any way with our having to take it to a professional? If not how much and who or where can do a good strip and park on the gun. I know it's not going to increase value, be more for my enjoyment of having a nice looking 03 with a correct finish.

The knowledge here is massive, thank you all that have posted in helping me out to identify, and sharing your knowledge on the rifle.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Hello SkyDiver,,,Any Gunsmith worth his Nuts would be able to check the Head Space, and correct any problems. If you plan to replace the Bolt or the Bolt Body (Absolute necessity), you will want to wait on that, but in the meantime,,,,,DON'T SHOOT THE RIFLE...!!!! In the meantime until you get your receiver re-coated the way you choose, if you want to dull the Blinding Brown shine you could do this :

1) Take the Rifle apart and just work with the Barreled Action.
2) Buy some Scotch-Brite Green Scour pads (Pic Below), and GENTLY rub the pad across the Brown Shine. Depending on what it's made of, you may see the Sheen start to disappear.
2) If the Scotch Brite doesn't work, you can also try some "0000" Steel wool, and rub that GENTLY across the surface too. Remember to start with VERY LIGHT PRESSURE.

You may find the De-Sheen process very easy, but again it depends upon what the coating is comprised of.

Since the Bolt "Body" you have seems to be from a 1903 that was not properly Heat Treated, a good source for a replacement one is very popular Gun Related Auction Site. I just looked and saw many Remington Bolt Bodies with Swept back Handles in the $10-$25 start range. Remember that any new Bolt you install will have to have the Head Space checked. Best of luck to you...!!!

 
#20 ·
looks like a put together rifle,
action was likely buffed and hot salt blued with Brownells salts..and run to hot..giving it a purple or brownish color,
bolt is a single heat treat bolt..
id suspect headspace as well, i see a breaching washer behind that rear sight base,..
address that headspace before you fire it.
what are the barrel and dates?
 
#25 ·
RBI, thanks for the lead, but I am looking for a mil spec park job on the rifle. Want to bring it back to its former glory, granted it will have to be over time, and won't be cheap but I bought it for the purpose of restoring it, that's to say, what I think should be on it. Eventually I would like to replace the trigger guard with a milled one, rear band with a milled one, eventually rear sights, and then the correct Remington bolt. I do understand that this will cost more than the rifle will be worth, but if it shoots well enough I would like to get into competition shooting.
 
#27 ·
Also, I was told by a gunsmith today, once again, everything I've read is to not shoot these single heat treated bolts, but he told me the bolts are fine to shoot as long as it's not a low receiver. This seems to go against everything I've read, and would rather be safe than sorry.
 
#30 ·
Well tonight or tomorrow, it will be taken out of the stock to get a better look at it. From what I can see, it appears the shiny coat is ONLY on the metal that's exposed, but will have to verify this. I would also easily believe it was at one point sporterized, maybe a new barrel put on the sucker, but it's got mil sights, so if the person did a minor restoration it, the barrels alone go for 100-200 currently (and its in good shape which leads me to believe it's replaced as well) and I've seen scant stocks go similar prices as well. As long as it's sound, I rrelly don't mind if it was at one point bubba'd because I bought it as a project rifle anyway. Just for the fun of it type of project, if you will.
 
#33 ·
I did black out some some of the numbers, and you are absolutely right about Remington receivers being considered in the safe to shoot, but the bolt that came with the rifle is more than likely a pre ww1 bolt as it is a straight handled bolt with no markings. Martin provided a link, showing some pre ww1 bolts did not have any steel lot code. These bolts were single heat treated just like the receivers, and a few sources say you should not use these bolts, just as with the receivers pre 800k with Springfield, and pre 270-280k or something close to that with Rock island.
 
#34 ·
As I suspected, it's only shiny where the metal is exposed. Thought anyone? Something that can easily be removed? Looks like the metal under where the "brown" is is a similar color, not as pronounced though. The barrel is a matte black, which I think is a park of some kind? Either way the experiments begin tonight to see if the shiny finish will come off with a very light steel wool wipe down. (0000 steel wool for anyone that wants to know.)
 

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#37 ·
The difference in the finish texture is explained by more polishing on the exposed areas before refinishing. The "shine" was the intended result by the person who performed the refinish.

Myself? If I was just going to use this as a shooter, I wouldn't bother with the finish at all. I would address the bolt and headspace issues, have the gunsmith verify safe functions, and then take it to the range.
 
#40 ·
it will more than likely be left as is for a while, but within the reenacting community (which I'm hoping to use the rifle in as well) some of the guys are very nitpicky, "farb" is the term they use for things that don't conform perfectly. The only other reason I'm even interested in a refinish on it is that I love the looks of a correctly finished 1903, kinda almost an obsession to get it as accurate as possible. Not saying there is anything wrong with sported rifles, or different finishes, but more of an obsession to return it to its original configuration as best as I can within my financial boundaries, that and I love working with the guns. If I had the capabilities, I would most assuredly do it for a living if I could, but have no idea where to start.
 
#41 ·
On a side note, I've removed all the rust from the gun, and have freed up the rear sight as the winds he knob would not budge in the slightest. Now that it's freed up, it tends to be too loose, so I was thinking maybe it was locked up and left that way for a reason, but either way, can't undo that now. I'll take some more pics tonight if the now rust free areas. A little upset because there is very very light putting where the rust was, telling me it's previous owner didn't care much to remove the rust, as whenever I've had light surface rust, and remove it even within a month, it has NEVER left pitting. It is not very noticeable, but still drives me a little nuts.
 
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