M39 bolt will not close on hand loads only - Page 2
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Thread: M39 bolt will not close on hand loads only

  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2010


    I am 78 years young and still going strong as to reloading and bullet casting. Even after 60 years the learning curve keeps expanding. I have and use old equipment such as Lyman #45 lubricator/sizer and etc., if one takes care of tools, they will take care of you.Attachment 2118146


  2. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 1969


    Quote Originally Posted by Leon View Post
    The Lee Classic cast iron press has efficient decapped primer disposal. They drop down through the hollow ram into a flexible tube. If you like picking old primers up from the floor, then by all means get the RCBS. The Lee Classic also cannot cam over; flanges on the linkage prevent it. I'm talking about the cast iron, screw-in-the die Lee Classic. Save your money with the Lee so you can buy a good powder scale. BTW the flimsy-looking and inexpensive plastic Lee "Perfect" powder measure throws amazingly consistent charges.
    Quote Originally Posted by LMyer View Post
    Forster press is a Cadillac, but Chevy and Ford will get you there too! Only advantage to the Forster press is not having to pull very hard to get the job done, the way they let the dies float on their adjustment nuts (which by the way are clamp to lock, not set screw) allows for self-alignment of the dies with the case, and dies simply slide into the press from the side. Other manufacturers have their own versions to do this as well. Plus you can always use an old-fashioned set screw lock nut with a rubber o-ring underneath, if you have an old fashioned press. Does pretty much the same thing, but maybe not so precisely each time.

    Now, Forster dies are clearly superior IMHO. The 7.62x54r Full length sizing die works the necks of the brass the least I have seen. Just take out your sizing button from the die and short size a fired case with whatever die you have, after measuring the OD of the neck - then measure how much undersize your die squeezes it down. - Also measure the length. Then do the same case again with the sizing button (it is really tough on brass to push the sizing button through the other way so plan on throwing it away if it ends up shorter than before). I think you will find that many dies overwork the brass. My Forster 7.62x54r die barely works the thinner necks on my PPU brass down enough for 0.002 neck tension on a 0.308 bullet and the sizing button ends up doing very little. For this reason I exclusively use the thicker Lapua brass for the 0.308 bullets and the added thickness allows the 0.307 sizing button to work just right after 0.001 springback. For 0.311 and 0.312 bullets, I use a 0.310 sizing button in the same die to get 0.002 to 0.003 neck tension. Forster will sell you any size button that you need, as well as the assembly that holds the button. If you really want to get fancy, I called them up once and they will custom machine (modify) an existing die to neck size to a specific neck O.D. without a sizing buttton. Talk about not working the brass! But your brass and bullets have to be very uniform to do this properly. It all gets crazy expensive and I stopped short of that. The seating die I have is nothing special other than being micrometer adjustable, and with the adjustment nut locked - I record what adjustment = what COL and go directly to it. Saves a lot of time when changing bullet type.

    Denny, if you're considering just getting into reloading - I suggest just buying an old used RCBS JR2 / JR3 press off Ebay for $30 or find someone who is retiring from loading. They work just fine for full length sizing unless you happen to be a real weenie! I have found that if you nicely ask RCBS for pricing on small missing parts for a JR2 press, they will give them to you gratis (within reason). I would however recommend new sizing dies as 7.62x54r are not carbide and can get pretty scratched up if the brass is not cleaned well before sizing. RCBS make a 7.62x54r neck die if you are interested in segregating brass - and it doesn't work the brass nearly as much as their full length die. I used to get about 20 reloads on PPU brass with the RCBS neck die if I kept the brass segregated. Just remember that any of the conventional dies should work fine, and brass life / convenience / availability of sizing buttons is the only real difference. Then you can test drive reloading and see if it is for you. Of if you want to splurge for the Forster dies right away they can be used with any press. Just don't expect reloading for a rifle to be a money saver (there is so much to buy), and it's definitely not a time saver. You have to enjoy doing it to make it worthwhile.

    Best wishes

    Thanks for the info. Denny

  3. #48


    Quote Originally Posted by DanBlue View Post
    Thanks LMyer! Do I even need to resize my brass for reloading the M39? What If I shoot a box of commercial PPU, then just remove the primer without resizing the brass, then resize my neck with the Lyman thing if needed, then just reload as normal..Would that particular brass then fit perfectly into the M39? So I'm asking if I should reload like this specifically for the M39?

    Yes. I prefer this method. I have rifle-specific brass to make reloading easy. It seems, that your m39 has tighter chamber dimensions. This is nothing new. Even back then cartridges and chambers had minimum and maximum tolerances, Sako and VKT used closer to minimum specs in order to achieve better accuracy.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  5. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2016


    Quote Originally Posted by jack57000 View Post
    7.62x54r vs D166

    There is no D166 on this picture

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