Loooooong Trigger Pull... UPDATE
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Thread: Loooooong Trigger Pull... UPDATE

  1. #1
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    Default Loooooong Trigger Pull... UPDATE

    I spent about 100 rounds with my Bulgarian this weekend and have discovered that in double action only, the tigger pull was exceedingly long. I would say the hammer didn't fall until the trigger was darn near pulled all the way back, and with little tension. In single action possibly 1/2" prior to break. I need some help taking care of this and appreciate all feedback. Thanks
    Last edited by Jaws2; 05-26-2017 at 07:52 PM.

  2. #2
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    That has all the symptoms of a hammer spring thinned by Bubba. Jaws you've probably been around here long enough to have seen a thread on this - thinning the waist on the hammer spring to lighten trigger pull was briefly in vogue. It results in a lighter, longer pull and may cause the spring to fail in time.
    I'm always looking for rare varieties of 9x18 ammunition.

  3. #3
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    Yeah 5 minutes and a new spring should make it much better.
    Now remember, when things look bad and it looks like you're not gonna make it, then you gotta get mean. I mean plumb, mad-dog mean. 'Cause if you lose your head and you give up then you neither live nor win. That's just the way it is. ---- Josey Wales

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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by North Bender View Post
    That has all the symptoms of a hammer spring thinned by Bubba. Jaws you've probably been around here long enough to have seen a thread on this - thinning the waist on the hammer spring to lighten trigger pull was briefly in vogue. It results in a lighter, longer pull and may cause the spring to fail in time.
    When you say thinned what exactly do you mean? Thanks

  6. #5
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    The edges on the spring may have been ground at the waist to make the spring narrower - I guess "thinner" may have been misleading. It could be that Bubba didn't have his way with it and the spring is just weak. Like lee1959 said it's inexpensive to swap out the spring and I'd do that first.
    I'm always looking for rare varieties of 9x18 ammunition.

  7. #6
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    Well guys, I picked up a 'new' replacement from APEX and it looked identical to the one on the gun. I replaced the 'old', installed the new, and went to the range. EXACT same performance. You pull the trigger back expecting to fire and same results. Wait, wait, wait, fire! It doesn't break almost until the end of travel. Single action, perfect, double forget it. Trigger transfer bar appears to work fine and the base of the hammer is not worn. Any other suggestions appreciated.
    Richard

  8. #7
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    sick

    Look at a YouTube video by Chromefreak123, entitled Makarov Part Change. The slot on the frame where the hammer fits had worn. I will try and send video. The link below may work and help you.

    https://youtu.be/N26tOweJuMk
    Last edited by septembermars; 05-27-2017 at 08:45 AM.

  9. #8
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    Boy thanks for the link! I've compared this Bulgarian to my Russian and I must say the hammers do not look the same. If these two parts should be identical, these are not. It appears in double action that the Bulgarian hammer actually slides to the right (looking down from the top) when you cock the hammer. The Russian goes straight back. Perhaps this is the issue, but I'm not sure what's causing this. I compared the area he was speaking about on the frame and both pistols look the same there. I'll study the video a little more. Thanks,
    Richard

    OK, now I've disassembled both, and the sear spring on the Bulgarian is 'soft' compared to the Russian. In fact, it is spread a little between windings vs. the Russian. I'm going to switch the spring and see how the Bulgarian responds.

    I switched the springs and it changed little if any. Now what? I'm at a loss. Thanks,
    Richard
    Last edited by Jaws2; 05-30-2017 at 02:41 PM.

  10. #9

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    I'm no expert but I picked up a Bulgarian Makarov that was listed as
    "This is a good-looking pistol, however, it has an issue with the hammer sticking in the lowered position, making it very difficult to rack the slide. The double-action trigger will not draw back the hammer."
    The trigger tried drawing the hammer back but not reliably. The issue was the grip screw was in too far. It had black plastic grips and I changed it out for original brown ones, and it worked fine. I played around with the black ones on the gun for a few minutes and noticed the trigger pull did change by screwing and unscrewing the grip screw. I noticed the metal screw locking detente device was missing from inside the screw hole of the black ones!
    $154 wasn't a bad buy for a 1982 Bulgy.
    Just a thought

  11. #10
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    Speaking of Grips, I've seen Magazine damage occur when Pearce Rubber grips were installed on a MAK, and the supplied Allen Screw was tightened too much, The tip of the screw entered the Magwell, and dented the Mag

  12. #11
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    Jaws2:

    There is at least one video on Youtube showing us how to modify a Makarov spring.

    I've never tinkered with gun components, and don't have any of the skills. That's the main reason I'll never 'Convert' my all-original .223 Saiga rifle.
    Why convert something--handgun Or rifle--and risk screwing up a gun which is 100% reliable? It doesn't make any sense.

  13. #12
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    Agree, no way I'm modifying my Makarov! I'll get this resolved one way or another.

  14. #13
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    Trigger bar or trigger may need attention, meaning replaced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaws2 View Post

    I switched the springs and it changed little if any. Now what? I'm at a loss. Thanks,
    Richard
    Why not keep exchanging parts (trigger bar, hammer, main spring, trigger) to try and isolate the culprit part? Maybe mark the Bulgy parts with a piece of masking tape. Having two Maks available is very helpful. Just one part at a time. If your hammer does something weird, as you say, put it in the Russian and see. One way to do it. YMMV.

  16. #15
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    I really think this is the best course of action. Just for the heck of it I tried switching the sear spring, no change. I'll keep going.

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    My limited imagination says the sear is not being lifted up far enough to disengage in DA sooner.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaws2 View Post
    I really think this is the best course of action. Just for the heck of it I tried switching the sear spring, no change. I'll keep going.
    Not a fan of double action (except hang-fire: rare) it's been a long time since I tried DA on my Mak and don't see how it can get any longer. Seems to use up all the travel as the disconnector has to cock the hammer, in SA it just lifts the sear. Shorter pull, but still breaks just short of the end of travel (SA). I was wondering if you could describe the difference between your Russian DA and your Bulgy DA?

  19. #18
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    I'm scratching my head, because to me, an extraordinarily long trigger pull is caused by the hammer spring. I suggested that immediately but Jaws2 said he replaced the hammer spring and it doesn't cure the problem. I'm puzzled by how the other options - sear, trigger - could cause this, but that's delving into voodoo engineering and that is worse than politics on a gun forum.

    Jaws2, I sure would love to have your Mak in hand in my gun room where I have multiple replacement parts for everything including the frame.

    You know that the normal operation of a Mak has a really long DA pull; then a short crisp SA pull? I'm sure you do. But perhaps if you held a few more Maks you would moderate your criticism? I wonder if you expect too much from a military trigger pull?
    I'm always looking for rare varieties of 9x18 ammunition.

  20. #19
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    Well the difference is so significant between my Russian and this that I'm just perplexed. Frankly, I'd spend the cash to send this to a member like yourself to experience what I am with this. I'm concerned that if I took this to a gunsmith that they wouldn't have enough experience with a Makarov that I'd just get ripped off. My choices are slim here with gunsmiths. Someone would have to experience this to understand and would HAVE to shoot a couple of rounds in DBL action to see what I mean. The parts look identical to me between the two so I just don't gat it.

  21. #20
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    Since you do have two Makarovs perhaps you could switch all of the internal parts from one to the other.

    I have a Russian made commercial Makarov that has some wear on one of the pivot holes in the right side of the frame. Can't remember right now if it was for the hammer or sear but it makes for a sort of spongy feeling trigger pull. It still functions fine but it is so different from all of my others.

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