1943 M91/30 PU restoration
Results 1 to 27 of 27

Thread: 1943 M91/30 PU restoration

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default 1943 M91/30 PU restoration

    About 5 years ago I bought this 1943 Izhevsk M91/30 refurb. It turned out to be an ex-sniper. It was a $100 rifle at the time. I shot it a few times and put it away. About a year ago I got it out to shoot it again and several of the weld plugs came loose. The plugs popped out with a light hit with a punch and hammer. This started me down the path to re-sniper and restore this rifle. I am a project type of guy, so I was looking forward to it. In order to make it worthwhile, I needed to find the best deals on a base, mount and scope. I found the right base and screws and bought a mount and scope from a member here. Cutting the stock was slow and tedious. It came out fine, but far from perfect. I wasn't worried though, the stock had plenty of scratches on it. I had Mike B turn the bolt for me. Excellent quality work. Now I just need to get it dialed in. I have shims and a barrel wrap on it, following the guidance provided in the kit. The trigger is decent now, but needs more work after I get some accuracy testing done... which will include finding a good hand load to feed it. Overall I'm happy with it so far. Hopefully I can get it to print well. It shot decent with iron sights. I should mention that it is counter bored too.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	right side angle.jpg 
Views:	64 
Size:	83.1 KB 
ID:	2143482Click image for larger version. 

Name:	right side full.jpg 
Views:	58 
Size:	206.5 KB 
ID:	2143490Click image for larger version. 

Name:	left side full.jpg 
Views:	53 
Size:	212.6 KB 
ID:	2143474Click image for larger version. 

Name:	muzzle.jpg 
Views:	53 
Size:	283.7 KB 
ID:	2143514Click image for larger version. 

Name:	left side close.jpg 
Views:	69 
Size:	285.1 KB 
ID:	2143466Click image for larger version. 

Name:	scope.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	214.9 KB 
ID:	2143522Click image for larger version. 

Name:	barrel shank.jpg 
Views:	72 
Size:	80.2 KB 
ID:	2143498Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bolt.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	73.8 KB 
ID:	2143506
    Last edited by MarksmanTim; 05-06-2017 at 08:11 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    8,986

    Default

    Interesting to hear of one where the plugs popped out. Most are welded up super tight.

    Does that one have the original scope numbers on the left side?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Assachusetts
    Posts
    337

    Default

    When did you have Mike B do your bolt? Sent him couple of emails few weeks ago and no reply whatsoever. Is he still in business? Website seems to be up and running

  4. Remove Advertisements
    GunBoards.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pavlin View Post
    When did you have Mike B do your bolt? Sent him couple of emails few weeks ago and no reply whatsoever. Is he still in business? Website seems to be up and running
    He did the bolt for me close to a year ago. When he was busy, at first it took him a while to reply. Once arrangements were made and I sent the bolt out, it was a very fast turn around.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stalin's Ghost View Post
    Interesting to hear of one where the plugs popped out. Most are welded up super tight.

    Does that one have the original scope numbers on the left side?
    Yeah, I was shocked. It came slightly loose from the firing, I shot it a few more times and during a strip-down cleaning I started investigating. It ended up coming right out. The rest were pretty easy to knock out as well. The threads were still visible but a little damaged. I ran a tap through it and was able to get the base screwed on with a little fitting to get it right.

    The original scope number is still intact, yes. I thought that was pretty neat. Combined with the loose plug and it was meant to be converted back. The billboard import mark (and placement on the receiver) make it obvious that this rifle wasn't imported as a sniper. My handiwork is good but certainly doesn't replicate original (especially the wood) so if I die and all my records are lost, a collector will be able to tell it was put together.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,090

    Default

    I'm looking forward to seeing your targets. Good Job!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Small update. I knew I took photos of some of my original work. I finally found them. I've attached a few photos of the plug removal, what they looked like, etc. The one photo shows the base secured and in the stock. This was one of my test fits, so the one locking screw wasn't installed yet. While looking at that photo, you can see the fresh cut in the stock. What should I use on it to help it blend and be sealed/treated like the rest of the stock? You can also see the bolt work. I'm happy with the way it turned out. It sounds like Mike B (Mosin Parts, LLC) is off the grid right now. I wish I had him bend a couple spare bolts because I need one for my PE now!

    Now I just need this weather to clear up so I can use my range!

    .
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	plug removal.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	88.2 KB 
ID:	2205106Click image for larger version. 

Name:	plugs.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	79.1 KB 
ID:	2205114Click image for larger version. 

Name:	receiver holes.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	64.8 KB 
ID:	2205122Click image for larger version. 

Name:	base and bolt.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	70.4 KB 
ID:	2205098Click image for larger version. 

Name:	scope number.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	81.9 KB 
ID:	2205130

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,090

    Default

    Tim, Get some Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac clear and dab it on the bare wood. You can mix in a little NAPA Indian Head Gasket Shellac compound to give it a nice reddish tinge. Good job on the restoration, I look forward to seeing your targets.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Montana Bearbait View Post
    Tim, Get some Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac clear and dab it on the bare wood. You can mix in a little NAPA Indian Head Gasket Shellac compound to give it a nice reddish tinge. Good job on the restoration, I look forward to seeing your targets.
    Thank you for the tip. I will get some to try.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dark and Bloody Ground
    Posts
    7,328

    Default

    If you want to be 100% historically accurate, the Soviets didn't bother shellacking the cut edge.







  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Finally got a break in the weather yesterday. It was 45F, cloudy and a slight breeze but no rain! I took the rifle and my lead sled out to the range. I set up at 50 yards and used the iron sights to get some groupings and also dial in the scope. I had to add a shim behind the mount to better center the post. For 50 yards, I was not impressed. I suppose I wasn't disappointed, but she needs some work to tighten the groupings. Of course I have a little voice in the back of my head saying there is only so much that can be done to yield improvements and that it might not be the most accurate Mosin out there. The good news is that I'm very happy with my trigger and bolt action. I have a fair amount of bench time into tuning the trigger and massaging the bolt all while making sure it stays safe. I don't have a pull gauge but I'd guess it's around 3-4 pounds.

    For the targets... the first round was iron sights using factory PPU 182 gr match. This is the group off to the left in the first photo. The second group was using the scope, same ammo.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	182GR PPU.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	114.8 KB 
ID:	2211218Click image for larger version. 

Name:	174, 150 GR.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	297.5 KB 
ID:	2211226

    Next I moved to the second target and new ammo selections. First I fired 10 rounds of one of my handloads: 174 gr SMK (.311's) with 50.0 gr of H380. Better than the PPU, but not by much. Next I tried a lighter bullet, also a handload: 150gr Sierra spitzer, also a .311 I believe (I'm not with the data right now) loaded with the same 50.0 gr of H380. Definitely appears to be an improvement in accuracy. I have 150 or so PPU 150 gr bullets that I can use to load a few boxes to try next. I believe they are .310 diameter though so they may not do well. I'll also load more of the spitzers. Any recommendations for a 150 gr bullet that's a little fatter? .311 or .312... I have H380, H335, IMR4064 and IMR4895 on hand. I'd rather not introduce another powder into my system unless really needed. Good news is that around here powder is readily available again.

    Thoughts and opinions on the accuracy and load development? (after only one range trip)

    Lastly to mention... I am using a shim under the magazine (on both ends) and a metal tape wrap under the barrel shank. The barrel channel is clear and will run paper front to back so it shouldn't be touching at all. I don't know if there is anything else I can or should do to the rifle itself. I do have the barrel wrap material but figured since the barrel is floating already, I don't need it?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dark and Bloody Ground
    Posts
    7,328

    Default

    I'd try a barrel wrap in the area of the front band just to see what happens. You also might want to shim the tang and/or flat behind the recoil lug (Finn style) rather than the barrel shank area to see what effect that has.

    Also, make sure the barrel crown doesn't have any issues.







  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    I may swap the wrap for the shims under the receiver. The barrel is counter bored a solid inch or more. You would think they found good rifling at that point!

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    There are a bunch of threads on how to make these shoot well. Do a search of OlRelic's, Milpreb?sp?, and others. The info is overwhelming.

    Make sure the action screws are checked often. Otherwise any effort is pretty much a waste of time.

    The shims may or may not be an improvement. The wrap is way more often than not in my experience. Good ammo, like Extra Match but good quality reloads should do very well. Enjoy.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4,306

    Default

    It seems to want to shoot nice groups, but needs a little tweaking. A question: Is the 10 round 174gr group on the second target wandering to the bull, or did you adjust the scope as you went? In that group, I'm seeing small groups of two, within the main group. This is very common when a barrel needs a wrap, as suggested, or if the existing wrap needs to be adjusted. It's also not uncommon to see the vertical stringing in the same scenario. I would completely agree that a wrap is in order. It will likely take some trial and error with the length and thickness of the wrap, but I'm willing to bet that you'll see an improvement. I've used teflon tape in the past with good results, but oiled felt strips are even better. Either one will likely need refreshing every year or so. Possibly sooner if you shoot a lot.

    As for shims, I've never had any luck with shimming under the chamber, but others have. As for shimming under the receiver/mag/trigger, I typically only do that when the action screws are bottoming out before getting enough tension between the receiver and stock. To figure out if that's the case, take the stock off and screw your magazine back on, counting the turns of the screws. Do the same thing with the stock in place and if you can get the same amount of turns before the screws stop, you need shims.

    As for the loads, I'm not familiar with H380. However, I wouldn't change them until I got the barrel wrapped and saw some improvement. I would use any/all of the loads you tested as controls to measure the success of the wrap, then move on to tweaking the loads, themselves. I'm most familiar with Varget, IMR 4064 and both IMR and Hogdon 4831. While some of my snipers have preferred one powder over another, I can usually get decent groups from any Mosin using one of those powders (and 1.5 MOA or better at 100m with snipers).

    Nice looking restored sniper, by the way!

    John

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,090

    Default shims or cork?

    Tim, I think one of these accuracy kits might help. http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...!-15-GROUP-BUY!!!!!!!!!

    Now that said, Mosins are very individual. What will work great on one, only messes up the other. there is a lot of trial and error involved in sorting it out. Also read this: http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...g-and-shimming

    The ex-dragoon I worked on had a great barrel and crown, but shot lousy. So I added one of those accurizing kits. That helped a lot. But what finally did the trick was putting a thin piece of automotive gasket cork under the tapered section of the barrel and up at the nose piece. So you're going to have to experiment. Which will give you more excuses to go shooting! Good Luck!
    Last edited by Montana Bearbait; 05-11-2017 at 01:41 PM. Reason: spelling

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joop View Post
    It seems to want to shoot nice groups, but needs a little tweaking. A question: Is the 10 round 174gr group on the second target wandering to the bull, or did you adjust the scope as you went? In that group, I'm seeing small groups of two, within the main group. This is very common when a barrel needs a wrap, as suggested, or if the existing wrap needs to be adjusted. It's also not uncommon to see the vertical stringing in the same scenario. I would completely agree that a wrap is in order. It will likely take some trial and error with the length and thickness of the wrap, but I'm willing to bet that you'll see an improvement. I've used teflon tape in the past with good results, but oiled felt strips are even better. Either one will likely need refreshing every year or so. Possibly sooner if you shoot a lot.

    As for shims, I've never had any luck with shimming under the chamber, but others have. As for shimming under the receiver/mag/trigger, I typically only do that when the action screws are bottoming out before getting enough tension between the receiver and stock. To figure out if that's the case, take the stock off and screw your magazine back on, counting the turns of the screws. Do the same thing with the stock in place and if you can get the same amount of turns before the screws stop, you need shims.

    As for the loads, I'm not familiar with H380. However, I wouldn't change them until I got the barrel wrapped and saw some improvement. I would use any/all of the loads you tested as controls to measure the success of the wrap, then move on to tweaking the loads, themselves. I'm most familiar with Varget, IMR 4064 and both IMR and Hogdon 4831. While some of my snipers have preferred one powder over another, I can usually get decent groups from any Mosin using one of those powders (and 1.5 MOA or better at 100m with snipers).

    Nice looking restored sniper, by the way!

    John
    Thanks for the comments and feedback!

    The 10 round group did not include any scope adjustments. I kept the point of aim in the same spot the whole time. The 150 gr group does look like vertical stringing but that wasn't the order in which they hit the paper.

    How the heck do I know where to start with the barrel wrap? I do have strips of cloth from Brian's shim kit. In the directions he provides, he shows about where to place it, I'm more curious about overall length and how thick I make it. I don't think I can go very thick as the barrel bands have good tension already. I'm guessing I just need to play around with it.

    Regarding the shims; I like your description on how to check if I need them based on screw tightness. In Brian's kit, he mentions potentially shimming the mag to get a minimum gap between the top of the mag and receiver. I think I have that without the shims but the hinge on the mag is buried into the wood a little without the shims.

    Further on shimming and receiver placement within the stock. Brian mentions that we don't want the back of the "trigger tang" (my words) to touch the wood. The wood I'm referring to is where the actual receiver tang sits. I'm pretty sure mine is rubbing there as I can see marks and the first time I tried to put a tang shim in, it bent the shim after tightening the action screws. I removed it without test firing. I can get pics if needed for a better visual. What should I do here?

    I agree that I don't want to change more than one thing at a time unless there is a blatant change needed, such as with the stock to receiver fitment as I described above. I plan to load a couple more boxes of the 150 gr load exactly as before so I don't introduce another variable. Once it seems like I've honed in the rifle as best as possible I will follow the MBO system to develop the best load possible for this particular rifle. On this subject, it seems many have great results with the 174 gr SMK's like I started with. Is there a known 150 gr bullet equivalent? Meaning a 150 gr that usually give the best results for that weight.

  18. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Montana Bearbait View Post
    Tim, I think one of these accuracy kits might help. http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...!-15-GROUP-BUY!!!!!!!!!

    Now that said, Mosins are very individual. What will work great on one, only messes up the other. there is a lot of trail and error involved in sorting it out. Also read this: http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...g-and-shimming

    The ex-dragoon I worked on had a great barrel and crown, but shot lousy. So I added one of those accurizing kits. That helped a lot. But what finally did the trick was putting a thin piece of automotive gasket cork under the tapered section of the barrel and up at the nose piece. So you're going to have to experiment. Which will give you more excuses to go shooting! Good Luck!
    Thank you. I do have one of Brian's kits. It's great to have those pieces to play with! I figured I would have to just experiment, but I like to experiment logically and armed with as much knowledge as possible about what works most often.

    Regards

  19. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mike radford View Post
    There are a bunch of threads on how to make these shoot well. Do a search of OlRelic's, Milpreb?sp?, and others. The info is overwhelming.

    Make sure the action screws are checked often. Otherwise any effort is pretty much a waste of time.

    The shims may or may not be an improvement. The wrap is way more often than not in my experience. Good ammo, like Extra Match but good quality reloads should do very well. Enjoy.

    I suppose I need to read more threads. I was checking the action screws, so we're good there.

    Unfortunately I live behind the iron curtain of NY. I live 7 hours from NY City, so don't have that vision (nightmare). But because of our ridiculous laws I can no longer buy ammo online (retail). I can still buy from private sellers, there is no provision blocking that. That said, I really don't have access to Extra Match ammo. I'm fine with hand loading anyway.

  20. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4,306

    Default

    Tim,

    It sounds like the stringing is being caused by either barrel whip, movement of the action in the stock, or both. Barrel heat can also be an issue, but since the barrel is floating, I'm betting on the whip/action seating being more to blame at this point. I think you're on the right track by not wanting to change more than one thing at a time. That will help you narrow down possible issues.

    I usually wrap an area that's 3-4 inches in length, with the center of that being exactly where the front band is. Start on the thin side, by not overlapping the fabric strip quite as much in each revolution around the barrel. You can always come back later and wrap it in a tighter coil to thicken it, if required. The goal is to provide some support around the barrel with the stock and handguard, but you don't want it to be so thick as to not be able to get the front band back on.

    For the shims, absolutely check the action screws and if they're bottoming out, as I described. I try to avoid shimming under the action, at least to start with. IF the screws are bottoming out, I will shim under the mag, first. After doing so, check to be sure that the magazine still feeds properly and that the interrupter is working as it should. It's my opinion that keeping the action seated as deep in the stock as possible will reduce the risk of it moving around, so long as the action screws are able to keep it tight. If I find that the action needs to be leveled (usually to get the barrel to float without hogging out the channel), then I'll shim under the receiver. I've only had a couple rifles over the years that seemed to need shims on both top/bottom of the stock and shims both under the tang and behind the recoil lug. If I get the point that I think I want to try shims under the receiver, then I will usually start with the tang and, so long as it doesn't tilt the barrel too far forward in the channel, I will just run with that. This is just my approach and every rifle is different, so it's impossible to say that any one method is "The" method.

    As for the 150gr weight range, I would have to defer to someone who has more loading experience with that weight. I've always run the 174s, having long range on the brain. I've also found that when you get them moving between 2550-2600, they match the elevation settings on the scope turrets pretty closely.

    Cheers,

    John

  21. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joop View Post
    Tim,

    It sounds like the stringing is being caused by either barrel whip, movement of the action in the stock, or both. Barrel heat can also be an issue, but since the barrel is floating, I'm betting on the whip/action seating being more to blame at this point. I think you're on the right track by not wanting to change more than one thing at a time. That will help you narrow down possible issues.

    I usually wrap an area that's 3-4 inches in length, with the center of that being exactly where the front band is. Start on the thin side, by not overlapping the fabric strip quite as much in each revolution around the barrel. You can always come back later and wrap it in a tighter coil to thicken it, if required. The goal is to provide some support around the barrel with the stock and handguard, but you don't want it to be so thick as to not be able to get the front band back on.

    For the shims, absolutely check the action screws and if they're bottoming out, as I described. I try to avoid shimming under the action, at least to start with. IF the screws are bottoming out, I will shim under the mag, first. After doing so, check to be sure that the magazine still feeds properly and that the interrupter is working as it should. It's my opinion that keeping the action seated as deep in the stock as possible will reduce the risk of it moving around, so long as the action screws are able to keep it tight. If I find that the action needs to be leveled (usually to get the barrel to float without hogging out the channel), then I'll shim under the receiver. I've only had a couple rifles over the years that seemed to need shims on both top/bottom of the stock and shims both under the tang and behind the recoil lug. If I get the point that I think I want to try shims under the receiver, then I will usually start with the tang and, so long as it doesn't tilt the barrel too far forward in the channel, I will just run with that. This is just my approach and every rifle is different, so it's impossible to say that any one method is "The" method.

    As for the 150gr weight range, I would have to defer to someone who has more loading experience with that weight. I've always run the 174s, having long range on the brain. I've also found that when you get them moving between 2550-2600, they match the elevation settings on the scope turrets pretty closely.

    Cheers,

    John
    Thank you for all the time you've spent sharing knowledge. I starting reading the thread that MB posted. Lots of guidance and information in there. Hopefully this Sunday I'll get back on my range for more testing.

    Regards

  22. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    I was doing a little observing with my stock fitment last night. With the rifle flipped over, the magazine out and screws out, I can get a little fore and aft movement. This is with me pushing down evenly on the stock to simulate it being in place. If I end up shimming the tang and receiver flat (I didn't have time to experiment) that would probably increase the fore/aft movement since the stock and lug are a wedge fit. How should I address this movement?

  23. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,090

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MarksmanTim View Post
    I was doing a little observing with my stock fitment last night. With the rifle flipped over, the magazine out and screws out, I can get a little fore and aft movement. This is with me pushing down evenly on the stock to simulate it being in place. If I end up shimming the tang and receiver flat (I didn't have time to experiment) that would probably increase the fore/aft movement since the stock and lug are a wedge fit. How should I address this movement?
    Tim, I don't remember which Mosin I saw it on.

    But someone placed a small, square, sheet metal shim against the "back wall" of the small tapered square hole cut into the stock, that is where the recoil lug on the barrel goes.

    I think it was there to take up the fore/aft slack. Do you follow me? If you do, I'd try that if I were you.

    Also, try the thin cork in the tapered area of the stock, just before the barrel channel.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bedding2.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	102.5 KB 
ID:	2222010Right there at the blue area in the picture is where you put the cork. Good Luck!

  24. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    11,537

    Default

    Somebody here had suggested high temp. gasket material and that is what I typically use. Advantages include that it does not draw moisture and is hard to catch on fire.

    Lots of good help given from excellent sources.

  25. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    I managed to get 45 minutes in at my range yesterday before Mother's Day dinner (my range is on my parents property). Finally some improvement!

    First I did some work to the rifle in the morning. I put a metal shim in the recoil lug side to take up the slack there. Next I tried to put a tang shim AND receiver flat shim in. This made the action teeter on the receiver flat. I removed that shim but left the tang shim in place. This seemed to solve the rocking issue. The action did rock side to side however. I added 2 more layers of my "metal tape" under the chamber area. It wraps a little ways up the sides, but not enough to be visible once the rifle is assembled. Next I checked the barrel float. It was still good from the rear sight all the way to the front of the stock where it got pretty tight for the last couple of inches. No matter, because I then installed a wrap. I put it a little further forward towards the muzzle rather than centered on the barrel band area. I also removed the magazine shims since I added the tang shim and chamber "wrap". The last round is still pretty loose and usually needs help to chamber. Since there are no more shims, is there anything else i can do to resolve this? The only thing I can think of is the mag needs to be closer in, which means a little stock wood or mag metal needs to be removed. I don't want to do either of those things.

    Ok onto the testing: I used up the rest of my 150 gr spitzer hand loads. The first grouping was decent. The point of impact was way off from where it was previously though. I adjusted the scope elevation screws with the next 5 rounds. Then I settled in and fired the 5 round group shown zoomed in on one of the smaller targets... aim small miss small... especially with a scope at 50 yards. haha. The next group is 9 rounds (the rest I had) aimed at a fresh target. I am more satisfied with these results. I think I will start to experiment with new handloads before I tinker any more with the rifle. I would like to improve the accuracy more, but I think this is a good starting point.

    I quoted my last range session for easy reference. Here are the new targets. There is a marked improvement in that the hits actually show groupings. Note in the first group 2 holes on top of each other. Also it was very windy yesterday... gusty. I tried to time the shots for lulls in the gusts. Being at 50 yards helped minimize the affect probably.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	43PU GROUP1.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	238.1 KB 
ID:	2228786Click image for larger version. 

Name:	43PU 5-15-17.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	134.5 KB 
ID:	2228778



    Quote Originally Posted by MarksmanTim View Post
    Finally got a break in the weather yesterday. It was 45F, cloudy and a slight breeze but no rain! I took the rifle and my lead sled out to the range. I set up at 50 yards and used the iron sights to get some groupings and also dial in the scope. I had to add a shim behind the mount to better center the post. For 50 yards, I was not impressed. I suppose I wasn't disappointed, but she needs some work to tighten the groupings. Of course I have a little voice in the back of my head saying there is only so much that can be done to yield improvements and that it might not be the most accurate Mosin out there. The good news is that I'm very happy with my trigger and bolt action. I have a fair amount of bench time into tuning the trigger and massaging the bolt all while making sure it stays safe. I don't have a pull gauge but I'd guess it's around 3-4 pounds.

    For the targets... the first round was iron sights using factory PPU 182 gr match. This is the group off to the left in the first photo. The second group was using the scope, same ammo.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	182GR PPU.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	114.8 KB 
ID:	2211218Click image for larger version. 

Name:	174, 150 GR.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	297.5 KB 
ID:	2211226

    Next I moved to the second target and new ammo selections. First I fired 10 rounds of one of my handloads: 174 gr SMK (.311's) with 50.0 gr of H380. Better than the PPU, but not by much. Next I tried a lighter bullet, also a handload: 150gr Sierra spitzer, also a .311 I believe (I'm not with the data right now) loaded with the same 50.0 gr of H380. Definitely appears to be an improvement in accuracy. I have 150 or so PPU 150 gr bullets that I can use to load a few boxes to try next. I believe they are .310 diameter though so they may not do well. I'll also load more of the spitzers. Any recommendations for a 150 gr bullet that's a little fatter? .311 or .312... I have H380, H335, IMR4064 and IMR4895 on hand. I'd rather not introduce another powder into my system unless really needed. Good news is that around here powder is readily available again.

    Thoughts and opinions on the accuracy and load development? (after only one range trip)

    Lastly to mention... I am using a shim under the magazine (on both ends) and a metal tape wrap under the barrel shank. The barrel channel is clear and will run paper front to back so it shouldn't be touching at all. I don't know if there is anything else I can or should do to the rifle itself. I do have the barrel wrap material but figured since the barrel is floating already, I don't need it?

  26. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,090

    Default

    It looks like you are making good progress with your rifle.
    I suppose you know, that it takes ten or twenty rounds to really settle the action into the stock.
    After that your groups should be smaller, than the first few shots.
    But you definitely have a positive trend going!
    Good shooting!

  27. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Montana Bearbait View Post
    It looks like you are making good progress with your rifle.
    I suppose you know, that it takes ten or twenty rounds to really settle the action into the stock.
    After that your groups should be smaller, than the first few shots.
    But you definitely have a positive trend going!
    Good shooting!
    Thanks! I plan to load another 20 round box of the same ammo I've been using for a "benchmark". Then I will try more of the 174gr and 1 or 2 others that I can make to do some testing. Once I decide on a bullet I can work up the most accurate load for the bullet/rifle combo. Hopefully that will result in satisfactory accuracy. If not, I'll at least have accurate ammo to keep as a solid variable in continued testing of black magic rifle tuning. :-)

  28. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Provided the weather holds out, I have basically all day planned at my range. I have to do some maintenance to it first, like cutting the super long grass (it's been so wet!). But then I will be trying out some new handloads in this rifle. I measured the "free bore" of the rifle and found that 3.10" will touch the 174gr Sierra Match King bullet to the rifling. I loaded the 174gr SMK's to a 2.90 COAL. I did this because if it's seated any further out, I believe I risk reduced bullet concentricity in the cases? The bullet jump isn't extraordinary at 0.20" is it? Thoughts on the effects on accuracy of bullet concentricity vs effects from a longer/shorter bullet jump in a Mosin?

    The boxes I loaded so far are with 44.0, 45.0, and 45.5gr of IMR4064.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •