1936 Finn Capture PE sniper
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Thread: 1936 Finn Capture PE sniper

  1. #1
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    Default 1936 Finn Capture PE sniper

    I mentioned in my other post that I was acquiring this rifle. I finally picked it up today. I took pictures as I received it. I believe the sticky oil is from the importer since it seems to be in the stamps on the muzzle, etc. I already started cleaning it. I love the worn bluing look, and this one is missing plenty. :-) The bore looks decent so far, with the muzzle end looking better than I normally see at the crown. I intend to install optics back to this rifle. I'll update the thread when I get moving on that work. One question for now though; Should I have this bolt bent or use the spare one I have that had has no serial number on it?

    Comments welcome.

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  2. #2
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    If it was mine I would leave the strait bolt that came with it alone and get a separate bent bolt for it. Nice one by the way; great original stock!
    Looking for PU scope number 10062. See post http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...light=pashutr3

  3. #3
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    Beautiful rifle. Congratulations. As for bolt I think it doesn't matter since it's not matching anyways. If you put another bent bolt and keep straight one as spare, it'll be just a rifle with two bolts. The fact that you have spare straight bolt won't add any value to the rifle. It's not like you'll be putting scope on and off. If you rescope (please do) it'll stay that way forever hopefully.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAshutr3 View Post
    If it was mine I would leave the strait bolt that came with it alone and get a separate bent bolt for it. Nice one by the way; great original stock!
    +1
    Purists of the world, unite!

    If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.
    Samuel Adams

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarksmanTim View Post
    I mentioned in my other post that I was acquiring this rifle. I finally picked it up today. I took pictures as I received it. I believe the sticky oil is from the importer since it seems to be in the stamps on the muzzle, etc. I already started cleaning it. I love the worn bluing look, and this one is missing plenty. :-) The bore looks decent so far, with the muzzle end looking better than I normally see at the crown. I intend to install optics back to this rifle. I'll update the thread when I get moving on that work. One question for now though; Should I have this bolt bent or use the spare one I have that had has no serial number on it?

    Comments welcome.

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    Ya just gotta love that patina

  7. #6
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    Here are a couple shots after I got it cleaned up and of the base I have for it. First, I didn't even notice the D stamp until sizing the photos for upload. Lightly struck above the star.

    As for the base... The seller I bought the scope, mount and base from is located in Belarus. It's not a stretch to think this base is one of the Ukrainian reproductions? I know for a fact it's not original and the seller stated it was a reproduction as well. Should I look for a different base that might line up better? I can pretty easily grind to get it to fit vertically, but the hole spacing is pretty far off on the outside holes. I would have to "hog" them out pretty far I think in order to get screws to fit. Also, I will need screws for the base still. I have one lead from a member here, but I figured I'd ask around. My understanding is that the thread pitch on the Accumounts screws are not the same? I also read in a thread something about the pitch changing at Tula after a certain year? Educate me please. :-)

    .
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  8. #7
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    First of all, GREAT PIECE! Pretty close in serial to another that I recently sold to a fellow member. Great stuff!

    As for the base, you're going to be hard pressed to find an exact match. It's my understanding that they drilled/tapped the bases/rifles together and that finding two that match, which are not original to each other, could be very difficult, if not impossible. It's too bad that nobody makes a blank base that you could measure/drill on your own, to match up. I think that's what it might take to get the alignment right on most of these.

    Best of luck!

    John

  9. #8
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    I would hog the holes slightly on the base and then set the screws in JBWeld metallic epoxy to fill the gap. I think what you have there is as close as you will get.

  10. #9
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    I believe Accumounts used to offer undrilled bases. There is a seller on eBay that offers the correct style screws out of Russia. I'll see if I can find them.
    ***ASK ME HOW TO "ACCURIZE" YOUR MOSIN OR MAUSER AND MAKE IT MORE ACCURATE***
    ***LOOKING FOR "DMITRY" (Feldscher) AND "IGOR" PEM MOUNTS***
    ***LOOKING FOR "DMITRY" (Feldscher) DYNAMO "D2" GECO BASE, MOUNT, AND SCOPE***
    ***LOOKING FOR PE AND PEM SCOPES***
    ***LOOKING FOR ZF-39 ZEISS 4X ZIELVIER SCOPES***
    ***LOOKING FOR RUSSIAN CAPTURE K-98'S (43-44 BNZ AND CE 44)***
    ***LOOKING FOR COMPLETE DOUBLE CLAW OBJECTIVE MOUNT ZEISS/HENSOLDT SETS***

  11. #10
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    ostfront.militaria
    Quote Originally Posted by Raupleminze View Post
    I believe Accumounts used to offer undrilled bases. There is a seller on eBay that offers the correct style screws out of Russia. I'll see if I can find them.

  12. #11
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    Your current mount has decent (not perfect, but decent) patina and wear match to your rifle. I would employ a machinist to line up the mount holes to the drilled holes in the receiver.

    BTW, through our contacts about this rifle and the near endless factors regarding re-snipering, I commend you for the intensive homework that took place. Your studies paid off. It's a great purchase, and a righteous project. You'll have a fantastic specimen when finished.

  13. #12
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    If you line up the middle hole just like you did on your pictures, the front one almost lines up too. I bet if you open it up a bit with a dremel the screw will fit fine and once tightened you won't be able to tell that the hole was enlarged. That leaves the troubled most rear hole that's way off. Why don't you weld it shut or at least the portion that goes past the threaded hole on the rifle and then redrill.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavlin View Post
    ostfront.militaria

    Yeah, that's the guy. I forwarded his info to the OP. I have bought them from him before, they are quality.
    ***ASK ME HOW TO "ACCURIZE" YOUR MOSIN OR MAUSER AND MAKE IT MORE ACCURATE***
    ***LOOKING FOR "DMITRY" (Feldscher) AND "IGOR" PEM MOUNTS***
    ***LOOKING FOR "DMITRY" (Feldscher) DYNAMO "D2" GECO BASE, MOUNT, AND SCOPE***
    ***LOOKING FOR PE AND PEM SCOPES***
    ***LOOKING FOR ZF-39 ZEISS 4X ZIELVIER SCOPES***
    ***LOOKING FOR RUSSIAN CAPTURE K-98'S (43-44 BNZ AND CE 44)***
    ***LOOKING FOR COMPLETE DOUBLE CLAW OBJECTIVE MOUNT ZEISS/HENSOLDT SETS***

  15. #14
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    Thank you gentlemen for the comments and also tips on the base installation. I ordered the screws today. Once they come in I will start to play around. With screws in hand I'll be able to get a better handle on fitment.

    Next weekend if the weather stays nice I'll be able to test fire the rifle finally. I put a micrometer in the muzzle and unfortunately my eyes let me down when I thought the bore looked good. Haha. It does have a great crown still, but the bore is worn, measuring .304 and .314. Hopefully my .312 hand loads will still work some magic. This sniper rifle definitely saw heavy amounts of firing but was maintained. The bore (and rifle) is clean, but worn.

  16. #15
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    I finally have my scope! I purchased it along with the base you guys have already seen and an original mount. The seller is from Eastern Europe and is a member here. We negotiated a price, with shipping being one factor of the negotiation. English is not his first language, and although we generally communicated fine, it seems I didn't realize he planned to disassemble the scope for shipping in 4 different packages (including the mount parts). There were no customs issues and each package actually arrived quickly once sent, each about a week apart.

    Anyway, I knew I was up to the task of reassembly. It's 99% there. I just need to figure out how to get the one lens cap tight enough to reinstall the screw. I think it has to do with the brass ring further in possibly not being screwed 100% in. There is no retaining screw for that one even though I see the hole for it (also how I came to think the brass piece wasn't in all the way).

    The body of the scope had dirt/crap inside that took a while to clean out carefully. The parallax adjustment lens? was still in place and was dirty. I cleaned it using Q-tips held by needle nose pliers. I don't have any of the long handle Q-tips. The rear lens was cleaned in a similar fashion. The front lens and magnifier were cleaned by hand as they were out of the scope. I was excited when I assembled the scope and found that not only did I put it together correctly the first time, but that the view was crystal clear.

    Now I'm just waiting for the base screws to show up. Hopefully they will be here any day now. That work will take some time to get done so I want to get started ASAP.

    Here are some pictures for everyone's reference:

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  17. #16
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    Nice scope. Good progress. This seller has been fine with me and also took my SVT scope partly apart.

  18. #17
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    If not crystal clear, it is clear enough! Well done.

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarksmanTim View Post
    Thank you gentlemen for the comments and also tips on the base installation. I ordered the screws today. Once they come in I will start to play around. With screws in hand I'll be able to get a better handle on fitment.

    Next weekend if the weather stays nice I'll be able to test fire the rifle finally. I put a micrometer in the muzzle and unfortunately my eyes let me down when I thought the bore looked good. Haha. It does have a great crown still, but the bore is worn, measuring .304 and .314. Hopefully my .312 hand loads will still work some magic. This sniper rifle definitely saw heavy amounts of firing but was maintained. The bore (and rifle) is clean, but worn.
    Fantastic project you have going there! Don't fret about the wear in the bore, I'd bet you it'll still shoot pretty darn good. My tired Tula does okay with 148gr Tulammo because the base of the bullet expands to the rifling when fired.

    On your base, I'd use the holes that line up, weld shut the holes on the base that don't. Then re-drill the holes so that they match the holes in the receiver.

  20. #19
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    Good job getting the scope back together; I would have been sweating bullets if I purchased a sniper scope and it showed up in pieces!
    Looking for PU scope number 10062. See post http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...light=pashutr3

  21. #20
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    me too
    Quote Originally Posted by PAshutr3 View Post
    Good job getting the scope back together; I would have been sweating bullets if I purchased a sniper scope and it showed up in pieces!

  22. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAshutr3 View Post
    Good job getting the scope back together; I would have been sweating bullets if I purchased a sniper scope and it showed up in pieces!
    Ras would get it back together if needed and cheaply.

  23. #22
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    Yesterday I had some time to tinker a little. I spent most of the time slowly grinding the inside of the base to get it to sit low enough to line up the holes on the horizontal axis. Next I barely reamed out 3 holes and was then able to thread in 4 of the screws. That leaves me with 2 holes that are way off. Those i will fill with weld and redrill. The others still need something done. Even though I didn't open the holes much, the chamfered edge is exposed and doesn't look good. Depending on how well the weld work goes, I may add some here too.

    The main point of this post is a question though. Now that the base is partially mounted I wanted to start test fitting the mount. How easy/hard should it slide on with the wedge in place? This picture shows how far it goes before getting tight. I'm sure I could tap it on with a hammer. It just seems it shouldn't be that tight. What is the point of the 2 screws if it's essentially a press fit? ha.

    Lastly, the scope mounts so the rear mount is against the windage/elevation turret block? That's how I see it in some pictures. Click image for larger version.

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  24. #23
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    On original Top mounts the scope mount will slide all the way on and the two screws were needed to tighten it in place. What you are experience is the mixing of reproduction parts with original war time parts. When these rifles were built there is a reason why the base and mount were numbered to each other. They were not meant to be interchangeable. So it is going to take some work on your part to make everything fit. Just make sure you don't change anything that is original. Only change the repro parts.

    It's looking good. Thanks for sharing. And yes, the mount slides on from the rear.

  25. #24
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    Even thou msniper recommended not to touch original parts IMO I think filing the wedge part would be the most optimal solution simply because if you start filing the base it might move your mount off axis either to the left or to the right. Unless you file off precisely same amount of metal from either side which would be extreme pain in the ass to do considering both sides are angled too. Now filing the straight inner side of the wedge (not the angled side that goes against the base) is whole different story. 10 min job and you have a perfect fit. After all that's what soviets did to fit them.
    Now this is the solution only if you have a mount/base width mismatch. If you have height issue meaning the triangular rail portion of the base is too high for the mount to slide on, simply file the very top of the base until the mount clears. Good luck

  26. #25
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    I got food poisoning over the weekend and am just today feeling fully recovered. Unfortunately I haven't worked on this since. Thank you for the guidance though. I will focus my attention on the repro base, which is what I originally planned anyway. It sounds like my goal should be to get it to fit by sliding on by hand, but leaving it as tight as possible.

  27. #26
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    Don't worry about the mount being tight when you slide it on the base. I doesn't have to be. It can be loose all you want. It's all about if your tension screws are long enough to screw in and push against the wedge thus making it tight.

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