Type 99 (?) Find
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Thread: Type 99 (?) Find

  1. #1
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    Default Type 99 (?) Find

    I know nothing about Arisakas. Thought 200 wasn't bad. Tell me about this rifle...

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  2. #2
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    Any photos of the side of the receiver? That will help determine the series and whatnot. Based only what I see, I'm guessing it's either a late 5th series or early 6th series Nagoya, but it could be a few other arsenals too. It would be correct without the wings on the rear sight if that't the case. The dust cover also would have been eliminated by then.

    Is it matching? The safety, bolt handle, and firing pin will match the serial number. Not so sure on the front barrel band. My early 5th series does have a matching one, but I can't recall off the top of my head if that was eliminated later in the series.

    Are there any proof marks visible on the bottom of the stock between the buttplate and the lower tang? There should be a few.

    Are the screws still stacked? Type 99's had their screws staked in place to prevent disassembly. Usually they get buggered up if it's been taken apart. If they aren't you should see a small punch blocking the screw's movement.

    Even with the light surface rust $200 isn't a bad deal, especially if it's matching. The finish looks to be original in the photos I see. I've bought rifles like that that have cleaned up just fine if you use the lightest gauge steel/brass wool they make ("0000" I believe).

    Please post some more photos if you can so we can give you a better idea of the origin and overall completeness of your rifle! Looks like it's a good one in any case.

  3. #3
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    Thinking it was matching. When was this made, and is the bore chrome lined still this late?

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  5. #4
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    Very likely it could have been. I have a 5th series that isn't but I know other have some that are and even into the 6th series they can still be found chrome lined.

    As for a date of production, it's very hard to determine as the records were destroyed during and after the war. Some folks can give you a very rough estimate once we find out what series and arsenal it is for sure.

  6. #5
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    A good, clear picture of the left receiver rail will tell the series, serial number, and arsenal. (The serial numbers were 1 to 100,000, and were repeated in each series.)
    An overall picture of the rifle would be nice also.

    Dean (the other one)

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean View Post
    A good, clear picture of the left receiver rail will tell the series, serial number, and arsenal. (The serial numbers were 1 to 100,000, and were repeated in each series.)
    An overall picture of the rifle would be nice also.

    Dean (the other one)
    Serial numbers were 0-99,999 there were no 6 digit t99 rifles. If you have one I'd love to see it? And the chrome bore was in use until about 40k range in the 7th series with Nagoya. I've been looking for years for a later one and haven't found it yet.
    Preserving history. One rifle at a time.

  8. #7
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    Serial numbers were 0-99,999 there were no 6 digit t99 rifles.

    Thanks BE. I knew there were 100,000 per series, but didn't realize they started with zero.

    Dean (the other one)

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by lthilsdorf View Post
    Any photos of the side of the receiver? That will help determine the series and whatnot. Based only what I see, I'm guessing it's either a late 5th series or early 6th series Nagoya, but it could be a few other arsenals too. It would be correct without the wings on the rear sight if that't the case. The dust cover also would have been eliminated by then.

    Is it matching? The safety, bolt handle, and firing pin will match the serial number. Not so sure on the front barrel band. My early 5th series does have a matching one, but I can't recall off the top of my head if that was eliminated later in the series.

    Are there any proof marks visible on the bottom of the stock between the buttplate and the lower tang? There should be a few.

    Are the screws still stacked? Type 99's had their screws staked in place to prevent disassembly. Usually they get buggered up if it's been taken apart. If they aren't you should see a small punch blocking the screw's movement.

    Even with the light surface rust $200 isn't a bad deal, especially if it's matching. The finish looks to be original in the photos I see. I've bought rifles like that that have cleaned up just fine if you use the lightest gauge steel/brass wool they make ("0000" I believe).

    Please post some more photos if you can so we can give you a better idea of the origin and overall completeness of your rifle! Looks like it's a good one in any case.
    for the ONE MILLIONth time, use Brass/bronze wool from brownells to removed rust from bluing and your favorite oil how many F*cking times do you all need to be told not to use steel wool
    former member of the society of east german militaria collectors

  10. #9
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    Ballistol first. That won't damage the paint.

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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Jack View Post
    for the ONE MILLIONth time, use Brass/bronze wool from brownells to removed rust from bluing and your favorite oil how many F*cking times do you all need to be told not to use steel wool
    I must beg your pardon, but I've used the 0000 steel wool on at least 5 or 6 different rifles with surface rust from poor storage over the years and have NEVER had one where the finish was affected. I've used the bronze wool after having it recommended, I believe by you, and had the exact same results. So by all means I can go ahead and say both have worked for me to the same degree. To the OP, use whichever you feel comfortable with but I can say from personal experience the bronze works just as well as the steel so if you're not comfortable with using the 0000 steel wool, use the brass or bronze.

  12. #11
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    I've used 0000 steel wool with oil for a few years now with good results. My opinion is as good as yours and I don't care to be sworn at or TOLD what/ how to do unless I request..........dirt ( old as or cheap as---your choice)

  13. #12

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    You did all right especially with an original cleaning rod. The aircraft sights appear to be intact best I can tell from photo. My guess with the aircraft wings yours was made before the so called last ditch models and most likely has the chrome lined bore. If the mum has not been ground, 200 bucks is a steal.

  14. #13
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    0000 grade steel wool and W-D 40 or REM-OIL is all i have ever used on guns, original flint locks through any and all military guns to remove surface rust without any problem ever.

  15. #14
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    Don't mean to go off track on the wool issue.

    I've switched to bronze myself, i find it doesn't break down into smaller particles and it can be saturated in solvents without causing it to rust in the meantime.

    I've never had damage from steel wool though.

    While steel wool can easily scratch steel, It can't scratch hardened steel any better than a file can. Neither can it scratch bluing.

    Steel has a Moh's hardness of 4-4.5
    Steel wool is firmly in the 4 range.

    Bluing (Fe3O4) aka Magnetite has a Moh's hardness of 5.5-6.5 (brass and bronze have a hardness of 3)


    So steel wool can only polish bluing. It's more abrasive than bronze yes, but not critically detrimental if you're not using ir aggressively and un-lubed

  16. #15
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    The mum is ground, and the stock is spliced like a Finnish Mosin; the toe is a separate piece. It's still in "jail" and the pawnshop wouldn't let me take pictures of the serial number side. Which thing I can certainly understand; when I get it, any pics I post will have the serial obscured. I thought the bore was shot out til I remembered reading somewhere that Arisakas had Metford rifling. I *think* it has a chrome-lined bore. If I had to go on the hook, it and the carbine the pawnshop had were "Papaw's old guns" that the Not We next of kin just took to the pawn shop because they "buy old guns."
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  17. #16
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    "any pics I post will have the serial obscured."

    Maybe you didn't know, but the serial numbers on Japanese Type 99 rifles are repeated in each series and each arsenal, 0 to 99,999 (Thanks Big Ed). So you really are only obscuring where the rifle came in that series, and what features it may or may not have, appropriate to that series and serial number.

    I used to "X" out the last two or three digits of a serial number because I'd seen others do it. I've been on the Internet since 1998, and have yet to see someone accused of having a stolen gun because of the serial number.

    Dean (the other one)

  18. #17
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    Well, for now, I can't take pictures of the area around the serial number, as I still owe money on the gun.

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