PU bolt differences compared to standard 91/30's?
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Thread: PU bolt differences compared to standard 91/30's?

  1. #1
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    Default PU bolt differences compared to standard 91/30's?

    Okay, OTHER than the bolt handle..
    I think I see a different angle on the cocking piece "sear" face, where the sear blocks the bolt..
    My 44 Izhevsk looks like the flat on the cocker is angled slightly.
    I tried to take pics but can't capture what I'm seeing.
    I did compare a normal 91/30 bolt and it looks like a normal 90 degree flat angle to the sear face which is to say it looks parallel to the sear face.
    Is it me, or my rifle, or did they "doctor" the cocking piece sear/face interface on snipers?
    Last edited by chasdev; 05-17-2017 at 05:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    Judging from the trigger pulls on original matching PU snipers I've handled (3 Izhevsks and 2 Tulas), I don't believe anything special was done to PU sears/cocking pieces during manufacture.







  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ol' Relic View Post
    Judging from the trigger pulls on original matching PU snipers I've handled (3 Izhevsks and 2 Tulas), I don't believe anything special was done to PU sears/cocking pieces during manufacture.
    Well I'll defer to your greater experience on that, but without a doubt someone, at sometime did a little work on those SAMCO imported, ex-Yugoslavian Army, Soviet built, late war PUs. They have the nicest, lightest, sweet trigger pulls of any Mosin I've ever tried.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Montana Bearbait View Post
    Well I'll defer to your greater experience on that, but without a doubt someone, at sometime did a little work on those SAMCO imported, ex-Yugoslavian Army, Soviet built, late war PUs. They have the nicest, lightest, sweet trigger pulls of any Mosin I've ever tried.
    Yeah, I have never owned one of the Yugos, but from what I understand they are all reworked (and reworked well) triggerwise.







  6. #5
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    Chas,

    I took 3 M39 with great trigger pulls, swapped bolt groups around to see if pulls would change and I had 3 rifles with crappy pulls. Hmmmmmm, did that with my two PU snipers and same thing.

    I am not saying bolts were custom made to each rifle but I will say the geometry of the bolt groups parts changed trigger pulls in other rifles.

    Long ago I swapped sears around on those 3 M39 and same results , each rifles pull went sour.

    Specificiation / tolerances were "wide" , ie..all over the map so parts do fit universally but not fit perfectly.

  7. #6
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    I only have one Samco Yugo, and the trigger on it is superb. I have two Rguns snipers and they have nice triggers, but not like the Samco. I have not found the need to fine tune them. On most of my restored exsnipers, I have fitted Finn triggers and cleaned up the surfaces of the sears, as well as lightened the springs They have turned out well. The best thing is to learn your particular trigger and squeeze till it lets off. All my hunting rifles have light single stage triggers on them, and my milsurps have two stage triggers. I like both....

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    Quote Originally Posted by milprileb View Post
    Chas,

    I took 3 M39 with great trigger pulls, swapped bolt groups around to see if pulls would change and I had 3 rifles with crappy pulls. Hmmmmmm, did that with my two PU snipers and same thing.

    I am not saying bolts were custom made to each rifle but I will say the geometry of the bolt groups parts changed trigger pulls in other rifles.

    Long ago I swapped sears around on those 3 M39 and same results , each rifles pull went sour.

    Specificiation / tolerances were "wide" , ie..all over the map so parts do fit universally but not fit perfectly.

    Probably decades of wear in.
    Sent from my Nokia 1020 win 8.1 phone

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by milprileb View Post
    Chas,

    I took 3 M39 with great trigger pulls, swapped bolt groups around to see if pulls would change and I had 3 rifles with crappy pulls. Hmmmmmm, did that with my two PU snipers and same thing.

    I am not saying bolts were custom made to each rifle but I will say the geometry of the bolt groups parts changed trigger pulls in other rifles.

    Long ago I swapped sears around on those 3 M39 and same results , each rifles pull went sour.

    Specificiation / tolerances were "wide" , ie..all over the map so parts do fit universally but not fit perfectly.
    For those who missed his run down on Mosin bolt and Sears the first time around, here's the link to "an oldie but Goldie". http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...bolt-and-Sears help yourselves...

  10. #9
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    I'm concerned with the angle ground into/onto on the face of the cocking piece where the sear "catches" it and then "releases" it when the trigger is pulled.
    It has a distinct (but small) angle ground into that area so it (that flat interface area) is no longer parallel with the sear face, which reduces the contact area from all the way across each other to just one edge of the cocker face..
    Hard to imagine it being a mistake or a bubba job, that's pretty hard steel.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montana Bearbait View Post
    For those who missed his run down on Mosin bolt and Sears the first time around, here's the link to "an oldie but Goldie". http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...bolt-and-Sears help yourselves...

    Bearbait... Triggers go out of their way to distract me. Just recently I installed two JP reduced trigger spring sets into two identical Anderson AR lower receivers along with two Stag Lower parts kits. You think after all installation, pulls would be same or near same ? No way..one is a glorious 4 pound crisp pull that fires any ammo..Tula,Prvi,Fed, Wc, LC etc. Other identical lower with identical parts...trigger came out so light, it won't fire any ammo..had to stick the Stag hammer spring back in (keeping JP spring on trigger and disconnector) and got a 5 pound no creep pull that is better than most factory pulls by a long shot but hardly the glorious trigger pull of the other receiver/StagLPK and JP spring set. The rifle with 5 pound trigger shoots anything now but its pull really does not come close to the other receiver 's trigger pull.

    Trigger Pulls : Its Voo Doo., There is no set solution. Nothing is a "drop in " when it comes to trigger pulls IMHO.

  12. #11
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    now you know why they sell hard package "drop in"
    trigger "assemblies".
    tolerance stack-up means way too many variables
    for drop in parts to always work out the same.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chasdev View Post
    I'm concerned with the angle ground into/onto on the face of the cocking piece where the sear "catches" it and then "releases" it when the trigger is pulled.
    It has a distinct (but small) angle ground into that area so it (that flat interface area) is no longer parallel with the sear face, which reduces the contact area from all the way across each other to just one edge of the cocker face..
    Hard to imagine it being a mistake or a bubba job, that's pretty hard steel.
    http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...l-sniper/page3 I'm not sure I understand the problem you are having with your rifle. But on the off chance it helps look at the thread link I posted above, and check out the picture in post # 135. It is a great drawing of how the sear and cocking piece lug should align, by Master Mosin Mechanic marc_j


    milprileb, I suppose I should have bought a lottery ticket at the same time I installed a two stage m-39 trigger and sear in my "terrible Tula". Boy, did that ever work out well. It's now a very nice two-stage trigger. Easy, light, long pull first stage, then abruptly it gets very firm, then a small amount of rearward travel, and BOOM!

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montana Bearbait View Post
    http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...l-sniper/page3 I'm not sure I understand the problem you are having with your rifle. But on the off chance it helps look at the thread link I posted above, and check out the picture in post # 135. It is a great drawing of how the sear and cocking piece lug should align, by Master Mosin Mechanic marc_j


    milprileb, I suppose I should have bought a lottery ticket at the same time I installed a two stage m-39 trigger and sear in my "terrible Tula". Boy, did that ever work out well. It's now a very nice two-stage trigger. Easy, light, long pull first stage, then abruptly it gets very firm, then a small amount of rearward travel, and BOOM!
    I'm sorry I did not mean to express that I have a "problem"..I saw a difference in my PU cocking piece compared to the other's in my safe and posted a question.
    The excellent post you refer me to does not show the components from the correct angle to describe the interface angle between the two.
    It would need to be rotated 90 degrees in order to illuminate across the contact face/s of each component.

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    I certainly think that Soviet snipers and competition shooters pre and post-war knew and shared trigger group stoning and polishing and other accuracy tricks, but I don't think Tula or Izhevsk modified trigger components.

    Remember to seriously bump test any rifle you suspect of trigger group mods to avoid a tragedy. I have bought several rifles that had trigger mods that could have killed somebody, probably done by some dangerous Bubba grind long after the arsenal or issue. My understanding is that Red Army snipers stoned and polished components but did not grind away sears or other parts as this might be dangerous.

    Wartime triggers even on sniper rifles were quite heavy by our match standards but had to be used in conditions where a very light trigger might cause a friendly fire accident or negligent discharge when moving or climbing, particularly as I doubt anyone used the Mosin safety much in combat.

  16. #15
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    Yeah, it works fine, stiff as a board..just saw a different angle ground into the face and thought it might be a pattern, or not.

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