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Mauser Carl Gustaf 96 Trigger tuning advice

2K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Leon 
#1 ·
How do,
Have a lot more pressure needed to release the firing pin on my 41 clone. Shot it at Camp Perry with a different bolt in 15 and that bolt released just a tad more then 3#. Vintage Sniper allows for not less than 2 &1/2 #s. I have 7+ on this bolt. Anyone successful on stoning these triggers?
Thanks
 
#2 ·
I used molybidium di sulfate on the touching surfaces that I just polished with polishing compounds not changing surfaces shapes. Many of my huskys.
felt much better..."never measured pounds"
just the change in my fingers pressure changed to suit me!
 
#3 ·
DK PHILLIPS has the right idea. The word here is to just polish the sear humps and also where they bear on the underside of the receiver. And a little moly grease on the surfaces can be a world of difference. When you start removing metal that's when things go south. The 1st and second stage humps and sear that holds back the cocking piece are normally case hardened. If and when you try to stone these surfaces and cut through the case hardening you are into a softer steel. The case hardening is to provide a long lasting wear surface. I have a small can of 3M Minnesota, Mining and Manufacturing moly assembly paste. I just use a Q-tip and dip it into the can and apply it to the trigger surfaces. Then work the bolt and trigger to burnish the paste into the metal surfaces. Think that little can maybe 4 ounces. I doubt that in my remaining life I will ever use it all up. Frank
 
#4 ·
I Agree: hardened surfaces need only polished ..
.Molyed saved me the need to go farther.
i found my two cans of moly army surplus in Oceania W.Va. Late 80's or early 1990's?
$1.00 a can near pound?
had gray looking greasedy thick won't come off of can't get it off almost any thing it touches.
.(it came in a big box of military grade "polishing wax", green can.)
i use it on friction as my first effort and action!
gave ED my friend first can only used up 1/2 can...... ><> Dan
 
#5 ·
Before monkeying with your trigger, try this. Strip the bolt and replace the firing pin rotated 180 degrees. There is a serial number on one of the flats, and this is normally facing up when the striker is installed.

Other than that, limit polishing to the sear lug on the cocking piece. I'd recommend getting a spare (or two) cocking piece to practice with. I use an old Buck knife honing kit with Washita stones; never a file.
 
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