Webley IV Extractor problem
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Thread: Webley IV Extractor problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Default Webley IV Extractor problem

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ID:	359217I just purchased a nice all matching 1943 #IV . The only problem is when fully openned the extractor does not retract. I also own a 1950 #IV and noticed that the1943 has a milled notch in the barrel frame at the pivit point where the extractor lever rotates. Is it possible the spring in the extractor lever has lost it's tension. When open I can use a eyeglass screw driver to push on the lever and the extractor will retract The picture's attached show the 1950 on the left and the 1943 on the right. Any input is welcome.

    Thanks,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    772

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    Skennerton's book ".380 no. 2 Revolver" at p.32, citing a 1931 "Instructions for Armourers" tells one how to deal with the Enfield 38 that does not snap back. Inasmuch as the Enfield extractor seems to be similar to the Webley, the advice may pertain to it as well. It reads, substituting words for descriptions in a diagram: " When worn at [the shoulder] the extractor lever should be filed back at [the leading edge] and the shoulder...adjusted to ensure contact at the outer edge [of the shoulder] and [the front of the frame]. The shoulder of the barrel...should then be adjusted back as necessary to obtain the full throw of the extractor." The right of the two revolvers you depict appears to have already had the armourer's treatment, since 1) the shoulder of the extractor has been rounded as it was filed down and 2) the shoulder of the barrel has been notched. Apparently these modifications didn't work. Success with the no.1 revolver can come from gently changing the angle of the extractor lever shoulder with an Arkansas stone, to accommodate wear that has taken place, but that would require you to start with another extractor that had not already been rounded off. Or try installing the extractor lever from the left revolver into the right one, and, if that works, get another extractor to put in as is. Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    Thanks Ward,

    I still have the 1950 but it's sold. I still could swap the parts to see if it works, but would need to put it back. If this solves the problem do you know where i might be able to purchase a new extractor lever.

    Thanks,

    Craig

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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    772

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    Apex lists extractors, but they're not new.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Posts
    177

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    First take the hinge apart and give everything a good cleaning. Dirt is often the culprit with Webleys or Webley like extractor problems. I have, however had a .455 that had worn in the same place you are indicating the groove. In that case your gunsmith can either fill in the worn groove or builld up the cam.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
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    15,474

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    Your number 501 appears to have had exactly the wrong thing done to make the extractor release, i.e. it is cut back. I have "fixed" several worn top break revolvers by upsetting a little metal in the area that is cut away, the reason being to press the release down a little farther so it will release.

    You may indeed have to have the worn groove built up to fix the problem. Even a new extractor cam won't fix it, IMO.
    03man - Don Voigt
    Author of "The Japanese T99 Arisaka Rifle" 2010 edition
    Co-author of "The Knee Mortars of Japan 1921-1945" 2011 edition
    Near Charlotte, NC

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    14,763

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    First of all, that ain't no "milled notch " in the frame, it's caused by wear and shouldn't be there.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    Thanks everyone for your input! I switched the extractor levers from the 1950 to the 1943 and still had the same problem. The 1950 version did have less wear or modification than the 1943 version but did not change the outcome. From the overall condition of the bore, cylinder and metal finish I don't believe the notch was worn by the extractor lever due to the small amount of pressure applied by the lever and the notch seems too perfect. But I also cannot disregard this idea. 03man's conclusion is pretty much what I am coming up with regardless if it was wear or a cut back. If I induce a very small shim between the notch and extractor lever it will retract. I plan to contact a member of our club that is a gunsmith tomorrow to see if he can built up the notch with metal. Still welcome anymore input.

    Thanks,

    Craig

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    224

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    ok, now this brings up a memory of an odd experience with mine. i took apart my mk v to detail clean it when i had first acquired it. when i reassembled it, my extractor would not work properly. trying to figure out what was wrong, i (at least) partially disassembled it again, looking for the culprit. when i put it back together again, it worked properly. this didnt totally register with me until i did it one other time. i figured out that, apparently, it may depend on the position of the upper 'receiver' while reassembling everything in order for the extractor spring to properly catch the end of the extractor.......uh.....i think? has anyone else had this happen? or were my mechanical inclinations just temporarily laying out by the pool and sipping a bloody mary? if what i think happened did happen, could that be happening here? its a simple fix...

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    50

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    I had the exact same experience as williepete with both my Webley IVs.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    14,763

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    The lip on the extractor lever should STOP at the front of the frame. If the frame is worn at that point (notch) the extractor lever will not move the extractor far enough to disengage.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    224

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    i see what you are saying, but thats not the problem with mine. mine has seen little use in a hundred years, and no parts are noticeably 'worn'. this had more to do with the tip of the extractor lever that contacts the pushrod in the cylinder being in the right place while reassembling. i think that once or twice it wasnt where it would catch, and it would move out of the way. all of that said, the suggestion was to simply check the position of the extractor lever relative to the cylinder extractor, assuming your problem isnt as suggested above with the channel being milled out or something where it wont work anyway........

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