M28/30 Front Sight
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Thread: M28/30 Front Sight

  1. #1
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    Default M28/30 Front Sight

    I acquired a 1938 Sako M28/30 today. The front aluminum barrel sleeve was missing. The seller found a replacement, but never installed it. The front sight assembly has to be removed to replace the sleeve. On a whim, I loosened the front sight set screw and the sight just slid off. The front sight is Sako marked on the muzzle side and finish is consistent with the barrel. I believe this is the original sight.

    When I replace the aluminum sleeve should I solder the front sight after reinstalling? If so, what is the best method and solder to use?

  2. #2
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    ​it should be soldered.
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  3. #3
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    I appreciate it. Do you have any recommendations on solder type and technique for a clean job?

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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bham_flyer View Post
    I appreciate it. Do you have any recommendations on solder type and technique for a clean job?
    Anything you do is going to alter the bluing if there is any.
    Use heat paste to try to stop as much as you can.

    Sorry, it's a difficult thing to try to describe by typing it out.
    Have any friends that are gunsmiths?
    They should have everything.

  6. #5
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    Thanks for your response. I have been researching it online this afternoon and I am concerned about the finish too. I can check with a gunsmith and see what he recommends. I may be able to minimize the effects with a lower temperature silver containing solder or solder paste. The heat paste is a good idea to stop heat transfer to surrounding areas.

    I wonder how it was removed without affecting the finish much.


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  7. #6
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    I would set back & think about this for awhile. Is it the original blue or has it been arsenal refurbished?

    CH has pointed out the original color of the front nose piece & the mid barrel band was case harden colors.
    If you have gone to the trouble of taking off the front sight now is the time to make it right.

    The front sight should be just sweated on.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bham_flyer View Post
    I appreciate it. Do you have any recommendations on solder type and technique for a clean job?
    I have the Finnish Army repair manual for 7.62 rifles. If you can spare a short wait I'll translate the procedure for you.

  9. #8
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    OK, I'll have a break and leave this job for Bugelson.

    Anyway, here's a motivational picture just to keep you going...


  10. #9
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    Antti, be my guest, the faster the better.

    I'm at the range at the moment so it'll take time until I can get to the translation.

  11. #10
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    Got to reply your email first.

  12. #11
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    I am in no rush and would like to see what the Finnish Army repair manual says for the sight installation.

    As far as bluing and finish, the bluing is thin and has gray look to so it might be original. The front sight is slightly darker and color is more consistent.

  13. #12
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  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CH View Post
    OK, I'll have a break and leave this job for Bugelson.

    Anyway, here's a motivational picture just to keep you going...


    That's a neat photo. I couldn't see it well on my iphone. I don't have a torch that big!


    Have any of you ever soldered with hot air. I received a Home Depot pre-black Friday email this morning showing a hot air gun that will heat to 1050F - this is considerably hotter than most solders I have been looking at. From a modern perspective, I was wondering if this is a better way to go to avoid the 2000+ F temperatures from a torch - to avoid affecting finish. I expect heat transfer will not be as good as a high temperature flame, but common silver "containing" low-temperature solders melt in the 400 - 500F range and Brownells Hi-Force 44 melts at around 650F.

  15. #14
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    You need a pin point flame, But you could preheat the front sight in a oven. Whatever you do the sight has to be true on the barrel. Wait on CH.
    The finish is original, I would bring back the case colors. Oh heck I forgot about Richard & our Peace Accord, Sorry.
    Last edited by DeanDallas; 11-23-2014 at 09:14 AM.

  16. #15
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    That's a nice looking rifle you have there.

  17. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanDallas View Post
    You need a pin point flame, But you could preheat the front sight in a oven. Whatever you do the sight has to be true on the barrel. Wait on CH.
    The finish is original, I would bring back the case colors. Oh heck I forgot about Richard & our Peace Accord, Sorry.
    Isn't there a set screw the Finns used on the front sight that will be used to make sure it is true to the barrel?

    I had a M39 with the sight off and that set screw put it right back in the correct spot, really no way to screw it up unless one was maybe crosseyed.

  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratman View Post
    Isn't there a set screw the Finns used on the front sight that will be used to make sure it is true to the barrel?

    I had a M39 with the sight off and that set screw put it right back in the correct spot, really no way to screw it up unless one was maybe crosseyed.
    Oh there is a way, just saying he needs to be careful if going back with fast setting solder. That group in the picture are not shooting craps.

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratman View Post
    Isn't there a set screw the Finns used on the front sight that will be used to make sure it is true to the barrel?

    I had a M39 with the sight off and that set screw put it right back in the correct spot, really no way to screw it up unless one was maybe crosseyed.
    There are surprisingly many m/28-30 and m/39 rifles that have the front sight not straight. I have two myself which don't have enough windage correction.

  20. #19
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    It has a set screw. I will wait for Bugelson's assistance before doing anything - thanks for the help.

  21. #20
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    OK, guidelines to the front sight removal.

    -Remove the windage adjustment screws and front sight blade.

    -Unscrew the set screw.

    -Heat the barrel muzzle end at length of 10-25cm with liquid gas flame. During this the barrel must be rotated all the time to make sure it doesn't heat up too much.

    -When solder (50/50 tin/lead) starts to melt the front sight is punched forward out of the barrel.


    To attach the front sight:


    -Remove blueing and impurities from the soldering points.

    -Apply hydrochloric acid diluted with zinc using brass brush or steel wool.

    -Plate the areas with solder 50/50. If necessary, apply more hydrochloric acid to ensure the solder spreads evenly.

    -Remove excess solder "tapping" the parts quickly.

    -Heat both the barrel and front sight body and set the body in place with a guiding tool (blueprint located at AV1) or bench vise. Soldering temperature must not be so high that steel surfaces in the white become blue.

    -Apply more solder via the upper hole of the front sight.

    -Punch the sight body gently with a hammer to ensure the solder holds.

    -Make sure the front and rear sights line up.

    -Cool the heated areas applying water sparingly.

    -Drill a set screw notch of 0.5-1.0mm to the barrel using a 3.6mm bit. Not to harm the threads on the front sight body, remember that the angle of the screw hole is 15 degrees.

    -Oil the barrel internally and externally with Shell Ensis Oil 152 or other gun oil accepted.



    Since the areas you have are already soldered I think it might be easier just to clean all the dirt/grease before removing the sight. When attaching you could just heat the areas and then press the sight in place without messing any HCl. I'm pretty sure the old solder holds and you wouldn't have to worry about ruining the blueing with HCl. If necessary, you could add more solder via the front sight blade hole.

    I fixed my shooter m/39's not straight front sight simply heating it and then turning. ALL THE COSMO WAS REMOVED before this. The old solder held just fine!

  22. #21
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    Antti, thanks for the job well done! Saved me from the work.

  23. #22
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    Thanks. That is great information. I will try to reapply with the old solder first as you have recommended. Do you use a propane (plumbing) torch for heating or something smaller like a butane torch?

  24. #23
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    That is a wonderful picture, and a very nice looking rifle especially the cartouche.

    My 28/30 "SY" marked Tikkakoski Oy pre-1936 barrel and only has 2 "D's" stamped on it without any date or serial number on top of it, but on the side there is a serial number, and the other side has a number lined out which does not agree with the first number?

    I haven't taken mine apart to see which arsenal it was built in from the receiver code on the tang.

  25. #24
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    Thanks Joe. I really like the rifle and stock. Mine has non-matching lined-out number on the side like yours.


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  26. #25
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    Some MN case color parts, this was for another project on a engraved model 44
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Case hardened parts Sept 202014 001.jpg  

    Case hardened parts Sept 202014 006.jpg  


  27. #26
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    I have used a coleman gas stove with unleaded gasoline(it was made to use that) to solder sights, silver solder is not necessary. I have used an acid based liquid flux but a paste flux will work as well, w/o a flux and the solder does not spread evenly - Be careful as the flux does indeed take off bluing, I have used paper tape/masking tape to save the bluing, let it air cool. Easy process.

    Pahtu.

  28. #27
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    Hi Guys. Really enjoy the site.
    A plain old home handy-mans propane torch will be more then adequate for the front sight job. bham_flyer stole my thunder by recommending Brownell's Hi Force 44 solder. Very good easy to use product. Just remember that the secret to a any good solder job is cleanliness is next to Godliness. Many folks error in the application of too much heat. 500' to 600' is not that hot as far as metal goes and will not harm your blue. Most solders today have a recommended flux to use for best results. Use flux liberally. Outline your intended solder area with soap stone and the solder will stay within the borders drawn. Keep a wet rag handy and don't burn yourself with the generated steam while cooling the sight.

    Remember, it can never be too clean to solder!
    Russ

  29. #28
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    I appreciate everyone taking the time and giving me advice on resoldering the sight. I will see if the old solder will hold per CH's recommendation first. If it doesn't I will be careful not to damage the blue with excess heat and flux.


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