Frequently Asked Questions / New Members Primer
First off welcome to the cetme board. You won’t find a friendlier place to learn about rifles anywhere on the internet! This post is to attempt to answer frequently asked questions by new members. If you have a question, please read the FAQ here first, it's quite likely you will find the answer here already.
This will be an ever-growing list. As we think of new frequently asked questions, I will add them to this post as time goes on.
First, let me start with the rules of the forum.
1. This is a friendly forum. Please try to keep it that way. Members try very to make this a welcome and civil place. Please respect that and be polite.
2. There are many members of all sex, races, colors, creeds, religions etc here. Please refrain from posting anything that might be offensive to the members here. Before you go posting pictures of half-naked women with guns, think about how the female members of the board might feel. Before posting negative comments about other countries, or NATO, or the UN etc please understand that we have members from different countries here.
3. If you have troubles, you can email any of the moderators at any time by finding a post from them and clicking on there name to send email.
FAQ for the CETME rifle
Question
What type of ammo does this rifle use? I’ve seen talk of 308 Winchester, and NATO 7.62 x 51mm, what is the difference, and why are the rifles marked .308?
Answer These rifles are military battle rifles. They have a fluted chamber, and were chambered for the NATO 7.62 x 51mm military round. The .308 Winchester is commercially produced ammo for hunting rifles. .308 generally tends to have much softer brass than military NATO ammo. The CETME, G3, and other fluted chamber weapons were designed to use brass of certain hardness so that the chamber would reliably extract the brass cartridge after firing. If you use 308 commercial ammo in your cetme rifle, you stand a great chance of getting case head separations, and bad performance out of your cetme, not to mention commercial 308 ammo generally tends to be of higher pressure than what your rifle was intended to shoot. Plus the bullets can be heavier and the cetme was designed to use a standard NATO 147 grain bullet. Stick with the NATO 7.62 x 51mm military surplus ammo, and you cannot go wrong.
Question Which H&K parts would fit on a Cetme Sporter?
Answer
yes on barrels, and barrel pins
no on trunnions
no on bolt carriers
no on locking pieces
no on bolt heads
no on bolt locking levers
yes of firing pin
yes on firing pin spring
yes on recoil spring
yes on butt stock housing with minor fitting
yes on butt stock with minor fitting
yes on grip frames
yes on complete trigger pack swaps
yes on rear sights when the entire sight base is swapped
yes on slim or wood hand guards
yes on wide hand guards with minor fitting
yes on triple frames
yes of flash hiders / muzzle brakes
yes on triple frame sling eyelet pin
yes on cocking handle, and spring
no on cocking sleeve
no on cocking tube
yes on triple frame end caps
no on recoil buffers unless you use hk butt stock housing, and hk butt stock
yes on pistol grips - slight inletting may be needed
yes on butt stock pins
no on butt pads unless you swap the stock with the pad as a set
no on hk 21 rubber butt pads unless you use the hk stock
this list is not complete - more to come as questions are asked.
Question Does anyone know what breaks/suppressors will fit the Sporter? And can you even remove the original break?
Answer The following answer is from a post by AZShooter
The pin is located at the 6 o'clock position (on the underside) of the brake. The brake is first screwed on (RH thread) and a hole of smaller diameter is drilled part way into the barrel. A pin is installed and the hole in the MB is backfilled and painted.
Simply begin grinding at the 6 o'clock position (I used a Dremel rotary file to begin, then finished with an abrasive wheel. You will notice that the metal filling in the hole is slightly different in color than the surrounding MB metal. Continue grinding until another color of metal appears in the center of the backfill metal - that's the pin. Try whacking the brake 180° to the pin with a dead blow hammer or plastic mallet. Inertia will back the pin out, where it can be pulled out with a pair of pliers.
Either drill a hole in the new brake, pin, backfill, & paint, or secure the new MB with hi-temp silver solder. Brownells sells an approved hi-temp silver solder to do this.
Question
Should I get one of those plastic buffers that slip inside the stock made by blackjack buffers, or buffer technologies?
Answer
Not unless you want to crack your wood stock, and damage the metal parts on your rifle. The cetme already has a buffer in the stock that works quite well. If this were needed, the engineers would have put an extra buffer in the rifle. These have been reported to destroy the butt stock, and metal parts of the rifle. Don’t buy one. The cetme has no recoil anyway, and you are not going to damage the rifle by firing it.
This is a picture of Youngblood’s rifle. Notice how the sleeves have become separated from the housing where the yellow arrows are
Question
What are the US made parts on the CETME, or G3 rifle?
Answer
cetme with wood
muzzle brake (don’t count this if they chopped the barrel so you cant install one)
cocking handle
receiver
pistol grip
hammer
trigger
sear
cetme with black plastic furniture
muzzle brake (see above)
cocking handle
receiver
pistol grip
butt stock
hand guard
hammer
trigger
sear
G3 from century arms
Muzzle brake (see above)
cocking handle
receiver
hand guard
pistol grip
butt stock
hammer
sear
(no trigger)
FMP G3 assembled by century arms
muzzle brake
cocking handle
forearm
pistol grip
butt stock
hammer
sear
You only need 7 us made parts of the list of 20
here is the list of 20 us made parts
(01) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings *
(02) Barrels *
(03) Barrel extensions
(04) Mounting blocks (trunnions) *
(05) Muzzle attachments (muzzle brakes)*
(06) Bolts *
(07) Bolt carriers *
(08 ) Operating rods (cocking handle) *
(09) Gas pistons
(10) Trigger housings *
(11) Triggers *
(12) Hammers *
(13) Sears *
(14) Disconnectors
(15) Butt stocks *
(16) Pistol grips *
(17) Forearms, hand guards *
(18 ) Magazine bodies *
(19) Followers *
(20) Floor plates *
items with stars apply to cetme and G3 rifles
Question
How do you change out the buffer internals
Answer
blue gascon wrote:
OK- so I'm one of the guys who took advantage of the group buy on the new Blackjack buffer. That means I discovered the same thing all the rest have- namely that the buffer is a BEAST to get apart! I tried a couple different things and all I managed to do was bend a variety of bar shaped pieces and snap off the end of a file. So I got to thinking about what the right solution would be. It's obvious that the factory designed the piece for disassembly with a special spanner wrench, and I sure dont have the toolmaking skills to duplicate that. But the idea of using a bar across the slot in the piece seemed like it should work, except that putting enough torque on a bar had managed to bend anything I tried so far.
So what is needed is a bar to span the slots, that doesn't require a foot of length to turn the back of the buffer. Here's what I came up with:
Download Attachment:
30.16 KB
It's a 5/8 castle nut. I used a piece from the end of a LARGE mending plate I had kicking around for the bar part. I pressed it into the castlations on the nut, then cut it off so it was only about 1/4 inch taller than the nut face. A bit of dressing it up with a file insured that it fit the slots in the back of the buffer and was flush with the sides of the nut.
I locked the plate of the buffer assembly in a bench vise, then set the new tool into the slots. This let me put a 7/8 deep well socket over the whole mess and use a 1/2 in. drive ratchet to turn the plug out of the back with darn near no effort at all!! Replaced the old rubber buffer and reassembled with the same tool. Job took about 3 minutes with the right tool. Hope some of you guys benefit from this.
Question
What are the Muzzle Threading Specs.
Answer
By El Chopo
CETME; H&K 15x1 RH Metric
FN metric pattern 9/16x24 LH English
FN inch pattern 9/16x24 RH English
AK 14x1 LH Metric
AR 1/2x28 RH English
Dies available thru Victor Machinery--1-800-723-5359
Http://www.victornet.com
Be sure to thread w/ a pilot in the muzzle to guide the die for a true threading.
http://www.victornet.com
First off welcome to the cetme board. You won’t find a friendlier place to learn about rifles anywhere on the internet! This post is to attempt to answer frequently asked questions by new members. If you have a question, please read the FAQ here first, it's quite likely you will find the answer here already.
This will be an ever-growing list. As we think of new frequently asked questions, I will add them to this post as time goes on.
First, let me start with the rules of the forum.
1. This is a friendly forum. Please try to keep it that way. Members try very to make this a welcome and civil place. Please respect that and be polite.
2. There are many members of all sex, races, colors, creeds, religions etc here. Please refrain from posting anything that might be offensive to the members here. Before you go posting pictures of half-naked women with guns, think about how the female members of the board might feel. Before posting negative comments about other countries, or NATO, or the UN etc please understand that we have members from different countries here.
3. If you have troubles, you can email any of the moderators at any time by finding a post from them and clicking on there name to send email.
FAQ for the CETME rifle
Question
What type of ammo does this rifle use? I’ve seen talk of 308 Winchester, and NATO 7.62 x 51mm, what is the difference, and why are the rifles marked .308?
Answer These rifles are military battle rifles. They have a fluted chamber, and were chambered for the NATO 7.62 x 51mm military round. The .308 Winchester is commercially produced ammo for hunting rifles. .308 generally tends to have much softer brass than military NATO ammo. The CETME, G3, and other fluted chamber weapons were designed to use brass of certain hardness so that the chamber would reliably extract the brass cartridge after firing. If you use 308 commercial ammo in your cetme rifle, you stand a great chance of getting case head separations, and bad performance out of your cetme, not to mention commercial 308 ammo generally tends to be of higher pressure than what your rifle was intended to shoot. Plus the bullets can be heavier and the cetme was designed to use a standard NATO 147 grain bullet. Stick with the NATO 7.62 x 51mm military surplus ammo, and you cannot go wrong.
Question Which H&K parts would fit on a Cetme Sporter?
Answer
yes on barrels, and barrel pins
no on trunnions
no on bolt carriers
no on locking pieces
no on bolt heads
no on bolt locking levers
yes of firing pin
yes on firing pin spring
yes on recoil spring
yes on butt stock housing with minor fitting
yes on butt stock with minor fitting
yes on grip frames
yes on complete trigger pack swaps
yes on rear sights when the entire sight base is swapped
yes on slim or wood hand guards
yes on wide hand guards with minor fitting
yes on triple frames
yes of flash hiders / muzzle brakes
yes on triple frame sling eyelet pin
yes on cocking handle, and spring
no on cocking sleeve
no on cocking tube
yes on triple frame end caps
no on recoil buffers unless you use hk butt stock housing, and hk butt stock
yes on pistol grips - slight inletting may be needed
yes on butt stock pins
no on butt pads unless you swap the stock with the pad as a set
no on hk 21 rubber butt pads unless you use the hk stock
this list is not complete - more to come as questions are asked.
Question Does anyone know what breaks/suppressors will fit the Sporter? And can you even remove the original break?
Answer The following answer is from a post by AZShooter
The pin is located at the 6 o'clock position (on the underside) of the brake. The brake is first screwed on (RH thread) and a hole of smaller diameter is drilled part way into the barrel. A pin is installed and the hole in the MB is backfilled and painted.
Simply begin grinding at the 6 o'clock position (I used a Dremel rotary file to begin, then finished with an abrasive wheel. You will notice that the metal filling in the hole is slightly different in color than the surrounding MB metal. Continue grinding until another color of metal appears in the center of the backfill metal - that's the pin. Try whacking the brake 180° to the pin with a dead blow hammer or plastic mallet. Inertia will back the pin out, where it can be pulled out with a pair of pliers.
Either drill a hole in the new brake, pin, backfill, & paint, or secure the new MB with hi-temp silver solder. Brownells sells an approved hi-temp silver solder to do this.
Question
Should I get one of those plastic buffers that slip inside the stock made by blackjack buffers, or buffer technologies?
Answer
Not unless you want to crack your wood stock, and damage the metal parts on your rifle. The cetme already has a buffer in the stock that works quite well. If this were needed, the engineers would have put an extra buffer in the rifle. These have been reported to destroy the butt stock, and metal parts of the rifle. Don’t buy one. The cetme has no recoil anyway, and you are not going to damage the rifle by firing it.
This is a picture of Youngblood’s rifle. Notice how the sleeves have become separated from the housing where the yellow arrows are
Question
What are the US made parts on the CETME, or G3 rifle?
Answer
cetme with wood
muzzle brake (don’t count this if they chopped the barrel so you cant install one)
cocking handle
receiver
pistol grip
hammer
trigger
sear
cetme with black plastic furniture
muzzle brake (see above)
cocking handle
receiver
pistol grip
butt stock
hand guard
hammer
trigger
sear
G3 from century arms
Muzzle brake (see above)
cocking handle
receiver
hand guard
pistol grip
butt stock
hammer
sear
(no trigger)
FMP G3 assembled by century arms
muzzle brake
cocking handle
forearm
pistol grip
butt stock
hammer
sear
You only need 7 us made parts of the list of 20
here is the list of 20 us made parts
(01) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings *
(02) Barrels *
(03) Barrel extensions
(04) Mounting blocks (trunnions) *
(05) Muzzle attachments (muzzle brakes)*
(06) Bolts *
(07) Bolt carriers *
(08 ) Operating rods (cocking handle) *
(09) Gas pistons
(10) Trigger housings *
(11) Triggers *
(12) Hammers *
(13) Sears *
(14) Disconnectors
(15) Butt stocks *
(16) Pistol grips *
(17) Forearms, hand guards *
(18 ) Magazine bodies *
(19) Followers *
(20) Floor plates *
items with stars apply to cetme and G3 rifles
Question
How do you change out the buffer internals
Answer
blue gascon wrote:
OK- so I'm one of the guys who took advantage of the group buy on the new Blackjack buffer. That means I discovered the same thing all the rest have- namely that the buffer is a BEAST to get apart! I tried a couple different things and all I managed to do was bend a variety of bar shaped pieces and snap off the end of a file. So I got to thinking about what the right solution would be. It's obvious that the factory designed the piece for disassembly with a special spanner wrench, and I sure dont have the toolmaking skills to duplicate that. But the idea of using a bar across the slot in the piece seemed like it should work, except that putting enough torque on a bar had managed to bend anything I tried so far.
So what is needed is a bar to span the slots, that doesn't require a foot of length to turn the back of the buffer. Here's what I came up with:
Download Attachment:
30.16 KB
It's a 5/8 castle nut. I used a piece from the end of a LARGE mending plate I had kicking around for the bar part. I pressed it into the castlations on the nut, then cut it off so it was only about 1/4 inch taller than the nut face. A bit of dressing it up with a file insured that it fit the slots in the back of the buffer and was flush with the sides of the nut.
I locked the plate of the buffer assembly in a bench vise, then set the new tool into the slots. This let me put a 7/8 deep well socket over the whole mess and use a 1/2 in. drive ratchet to turn the plug out of the back with darn near no effort at all!! Replaced the old rubber buffer and reassembled with the same tool. Job took about 3 minutes with the right tool. Hope some of you guys benefit from this.
Question
What are the Muzzle Threading Specs.
Answer
By El Chopo
CETME; H&K 15x1 RH Metric
FN metric pattern 9/16x24 LH English
FN inch pattern 9/16x24 RH English
AK 14x1 LH Metric
AR 1/2x28 RH English
Dies available thru Victor Machinery--1-800-723-5359
Http://www.victornet.com
Be sure to thread w/ a pilot in the muzzle to guide the die for a true threading.
http://www.victornet.com