7.65 French Long Ammo - Page 2
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Thread: 7.65 French Long Ammo

  1. #46
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    I had also been struggling using 32 S&W dies for resizing both 7.65 french long and 30 mannlicher. I found that my 1935S liked the 110 grain carbine bullet better than the soft point lighter bullets and functioned fine with no pressure signs. I had been adjusting the 32S&W for a slight crimp and in addition to the longer carbine bullet that worked ok for me. However I recently upgraded my 30 carbine dies to carbide, so I had an old steel rcbs die left over. I cut 1/2" off of the die and cleaned up the bottom and the opening to remove burrs, and it works like a charm on both the mannlicher and the french long. I now have a post sized .302 ID, which allows me to expand as I wish and still have plenty of neck tension without having to crimp.

    Frank

  2. #47
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    I just bought a 1935A - My journey begins for ammo -

  3. #48

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    This thread has more info about reloading 7.65L in one place than anywhere on the web from what I can find.

    Question: The cheapest bullets right now appear to be 86gr, followed by 90, then the 85. Are any of you using 86 or 90 for the MAS-38? The load appears to be 3.5 grains of Unique with an 85gr bullet. I'm wondering if a 90gr bullet can reliability work with the MAS-38.

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  5. #49
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    My favorite 7.65L load right now is with the Sierra 85 grain bullet and Unique. Works well in both my 35A and MAS-38.

    I have been experimenting with heavier bullets (110 grain) in the 35A, but haven't finished testing yet. I think it will run in the MAS 38 as well, but not ready to say that just yet...

    Type 96 LMG

  6. #50
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    Some years ago, I bought an extra barrel for my M-35 and reamed out the chamber
    to take a shortened .30 carbine case. the case walls were too thick to expand when
    fired, so I had to ream the necks. Also, as previously noted the rims too large, so I
    had to reduce them. After running the cases thru a carbine die, I neck sized them
    with a .30 luger die, which makes a slightly bottle-necked case. It took a lot of work
    making each case, but over time I managed several hundred. Naturally, I try to
    account for each case and retrieve it afterward.

    The only problem that I've had with these rounds is with the magazine - because
    the cases are tapered, I can only get six rounds in. But thats plenty; if I have to
    engage in guereilla warfare, I'll just have to use something else.

    Another thought - The dimensions of the .32 longue are very similar to the 7.63
    Mannlicher, which was used by the Argentine Army for much of the last century.
    If some of this pistols are still in the hands of Argentine civilians - there may be
    someone there still making the ammo.

  7. #51

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    This is an old thread, and I've been off-line a long time, but I reloaded several hundred converted 32 S&W Long cases with 93 grain .3085 diameter bullets (for .30 Mauser) and Unique powder. This combination has worked very well. The MAS 1935A is a great old pistol and a pleasure to shoot.

  8. #52

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    Bringing this back to life to see if people are running into this issue:

    My reloads using Buffalo Brass which is cut down .32 S&W Long, work on the first reload no problems. But as I reload the brass subsequent times it becomes unreliable, getting worse with each reload.

    After a lot troubleshooting I've found 90% of the problem: The rims get dinged up by the extractor or part of the feed and extract process. As a result they do not seat well against the bolt face causing some rounds to jam on feed. This is using a MAS-38. I finally put it together when I had a piece of brass that wouldn't even fit in the shell holder. I polished the rims back down using a bench grinder and they work far better.

    I ground down rims and shot them yesterday but still had a few failures. I don't know if I left high spots or if the bullets were not seated perfectly as I've seen some rounds with a bit of a bulge on one side after seating.

    Anyone run into this before? If so anyone found a solution?

    One source told me that because the brass was formed by turning a bigger rim down the rim is soft due to not being work hardened as part of the forming process. Not sure if any truth to that.

  9. #53
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    I load for the M35A and S using cut down Starline 32H&R brass. Per email from Starline, their case head dimensions and strengths are the same as their 32 S&W. This is good basic brass for the MAS, and I've lost very few to case body splits or case head failures - mostly due to the oversized chamber on the 1935S. The case head seems hard enough when cut to MAS dimensions as I have loaded them hot in the past, and all of them reloaded several times. I've got about 125 brass which has lasted 5-8 reloads and looks to be in very good shape.

    I load with Lee 32ACP dies, a deeper bullet seating punch (easy to modify with a lathe), 71 grain ACP bullets swaged to 0.308" with a Lee sizing die, and ideally a nearly case full of 231 powder with about 1/8" of bullet in the case. The bullets hold in the case well and I have not had any bullet/case separations happen during the feeding cycle. I don't recall if I modified or replaced the case neck expander to fit these cases.

    I initially tried using 110 grain carbine bullets, but these bullets seemed overweight for these pistols and round. I had a higher than desired impact on the target, poor accuracy, and too rapid functioning of the pistol with low powder charges. Using these bullets was a dead end. I had the best luck with pulled 98 grain Federal LRN bullets from a box of 25 32 S&W ammo. I look for these bullets every now and then, but 71 grain ACP bullets work almost as well, cheaper, and look like arsenal ball ammo.

    I've tried using cut down 30 carbine brass - radially and axially, but that last 0.001-0.002" variance on the case diameter plays hell with a consistant bullet pull. The brass also look bad whereas cutdown 32 H&R brass looks like factory brass.

    I don't have my notebooks around, but the 71 grain bullets are moving only a bit faster than chronographed French ball bullets. Just as well as these are 50 year old springs in these guns. I get good cycling with a few odd FTEject happening. I'll reload the trashed brass (miscut 32 H&R, all the 30 carbine) I have until I lose it or it splits. This stuff has far more functioning problems than my good brass.

    For what it's worth, the chamber in my 1935S is horribly oversized while my 1935A chamber is normally sized. I tried cutting down 30 carbine brass to fit the chamber diameters -0.004", but the converted brass would not fit in the magazine. I will sleeve this barrel to use a 0.308" barrel stub and chamber it to more closely match the 1935S pistol. I had pics on hunt101.com, but it looks like the site was nuked.

    I read somewhere using 32ACP ammo in these guns is terribly hard on the extractors, and there are no more extractors out in the wild to replace your future broken one.

  10. #54
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    Buffalo Arms used to load this round - I wonder if they or some other firm would consider making a production run of cases if not compete rounds ?

  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elwood_Blues View Post
    I read somewhere using 32ACP ammo in these guns is terribly hard on the extractors, and there are no more extractors out in the wild to replace your future broken one.
    I found parts a little tough to find. I managed to grab myself a complete 35A slide about 6 months ago, so I hope to use that for future load testing so as not to abuse the original slide assembly on my 35A. This will allow me to further test the 110 FMJ loads that are showing potential.

    Have to say the best jacketed head I found so far has been the Sierra Match Master 85 grain. Shoots very well for me. I cast some .32 cal 83 grain heads, but haven't tried them yet.

    Type 96 LMG

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elwood_Blues View Post
    I tried cutting down 30 carbine brass to fit the chamber diameters -0.004", but the converted brass would not fit in the magazine.
    Have you tried swaging the .30 carbine brass to reduce it's overall diameter? Using an arbor press and swaging dies, this process has been used to make .35 Remington out of .308 Winchester cases, and 8mm Nambu from .40 S&W cases.

  13. #57
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    I have a 1935A that I used to reload for, but my RCBS reloading dies were stolen in my last move along with my other dies.
    I used .30 Luger and 7.65 Mauser bullets, and cases from Old Western Scrounger. They worked great. I had 100% reliability with my reloads, and it was a fun gun to shoot. The trigger is a bit odd as it pivots, but you get used to that. I used HP-38 powder with good results.

  14. #58
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    Sorry to hear that your dies were stolen. It is a pain to lose things in moves. Sometimes takes a while to discover the loss.

    HP-38 and it's twin, Win 231, are very useful in small cases and it meters better through my powder measure than Bullseye. This is my preferred powder for my .32 Unique Rr51. Recently got a good deal (closeout) on several boxes of Sierra 71 grain FMJ, so have not needed to cast any. My Lyman 311252 mold drops bullets at 78 grains.

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedward View Post
    Sorry to hear that your dies were stolen. It is a pain to lose things in moves. Sometimes takes a while to discover the loss.
    Yeah, ironically I was moving to the Denver suburbs, and didn't realize for several months that they were missing. To replace that RCBS die would be very expensive now, so that's why I haven't started reloading for that caliber again, but maybe someday. I like HP-38/W231 for this round as well as .380 ACP, and 9MM Makarov.

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Type 96 LMG View Post
    My favorite 7.65L load right now is with the Sierra 85 grain bullet and Unique. Works well in both my 35A and MAS-38.

    I have been experimenting with heavier bullets (110 grain) in the 35A, but haven't finished testing yet. I think it will run in the MAS 38 as well, but not ready to say that just yet...

    Type 96 LMG
    If you don't mind me asking, how much Unique do you use?
    VFW Life Member. DAV Life Member. Member, Marine Corps League.

    "The staff officers want to run a staff war when really this is a noncom's war . . . The colonels must march with their men, not circle overhead in helicopters while the poor wretches sweat it out in the hills. The rebel leader we are up against marches with his men, draws the same pay as they do eats the same rations."

    LtCol Marcel Bigeard

  17. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amtraker View Post
    If you don't mind me asking, how much Unique do you use?
    You weren't asking me but I was using 3.5gr Unique with Sierra's #8005 projectile (.308 85gr IIRC).

    I also have used 3.5gr N340 with the same results - they work fine as long as the rims aren't too chewed up or I'm using new brass.

    I still need to chrono both and a box of commercial 7.65 Longue I got in an auction with a 1935a. The ammo & box is probably worth almost have the gun - nice shiny brass stuff and not that military surplus you see that apparently doesn't always go bang.

    Anyway turning/polishing the rims is a real pain. I think I'm going to see if someone is game to make a custom die for me that will reform the rims. It'd also mean a custom shell holder that would hold the cartridge rim side up. Not sure if this is a thing or something I'm dreaming up that won't work (brass get stuck on the holder? No idea)... There's gotta be a better way that polishing each rim by hand slowly but if it comes to that I guess it'll be a twice a summer thing where I can just sit outside on a nice day with my mini grinder and polish rims off and on over a weekend because it's so slow and tedious.

  18. #62
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    I assume you are making your brass from .32 S&W Long cases. You could make a mandrill (piece of dowel sanded to fit inside the case) to hold the cases so they can be spun in a drill. Then it would be easy to turn down the rims with a file and deepen the extractor groove.

    If you have a drill press, you could make a more elaborate fixture that would allow quicker production.

    If I had to do this, I'd use my mini lathe. It is amazing how useful a mini lathe can be for a reloader.

    There is a sub page devoted to converting cases at: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

  19. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by pedward View Post
    I assume you are making your brass from .32 S&W Long cases. You could make a mandrill (piece of dowel sanded to fit inside the case) to hold the cases so they can be spun in a drill. Then it would be easy to turn down the rims with a file and deepen the extractor groove.

    If you have a drill press, you could make a more elaborate fixture that would allow quicker production.

    If I had to do this, I'd use my mini lathe. It is amazing how useful a mini lathe can be for a reloader.

    There is a sub page devoted to converting cases at: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/
    Thanks. It's not the groove but the diameter of the rim itself which is a problem as you use them over and over.

    I'm using Buffalo Arms cases. They are very well made, uniform and to spec, but the problem is as you use them the rims get chewed up and expanded to the point where they don't reliably feed. It took a lot of head scratching on why my reloads were getting worse every time I ran them through the process but then I had a piece of brass that wouldn't fit into the shell holder. I'm shooting them in a MAS-38 which may be rough on the rims. The theory why this is such a problem is that because Buffalo turns down the rims from 32 S&W the rims are soft as normal manufacturing would work harden the rim. So when you shoot them they quickly become badly marred.

    I also think the MAS 38 bolt is partially to blame just being an open-bolt fully supported bolt face (that is, the shell fits down into a depression in the face of the bolt which is true of the other subguns I'm familiar with like the Sten and UZI). There's just no room for a rim that is significantly larger than new so on feeding it doesn't sit flat against the face and ends up feeding incorrectly.

    What I'm doing now is using a mini grinder with a polishing wheel and turning each one by hand. I was thinking a shell holder that allowed me to put the shell rim-up and a die that formed to .333 would be perfect but probably what would happen is as soon as I returned the lever on the press the shell would be stuck up in the forming die.

    Long story short, lathe, drill press, or grinder like I'm using is probably the answer until/unless one of these obscure caliber manufacturers decides to tap into this tiny market and make true factory brass for the caliber, assuming that fixes the rim issue.

    E: I think you're right in that a lathe is ultimately the best solution and with one I could form the brass myself and not have to buy it. Entry price is what kept me from getting a lathe over this cheapo hobby 5" grinder but one day I'll probably just go with a lathe.

  20. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by HomerTHX1138 View Post
    Thanks. It's not the groove but the diameter of the rim itself which is a problem as you use them over and over.
    Problem diagnosis is at least half of the solution. A couple of ideas:

    1. Lee makes a bulge buster that sizes straight wall cases like 380 and 45 ACP.
    http://leeprecision.com/case-conditi...ge-buster-kit/
    You might ask if they would make a custom .333" die for you. Or, make one yourself. Or have a machinist make one for you.

    2. The brass alloy used to make cartridge cases can vary in hardness from one brand to the next. I have found R-P are softer than WW and the hardest are S&B. This may also vary by caliber.

    3. Look for and polish any sharp corners that might damage your cases on bolt, extractor or feed ramps.

  21. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by pedward View Post
    Problem diagnosis is at least half of the solution. A couple of ideas:

    1. Lee makes a bulge buster that sizes straight wall cases like 380 and 45 ACP.
    http://leeprecision.com/case-conditi...ge-buster-kit/
    You might ask if they would make a custom .333" die for you. Or, make one yourself. Or have a machinist make one for you.

    2. The brass alloy used to make cartridge cases can vary in hardness from one brand to the next. I have found R-P are softer than WW and the hardest are S&B. This may also vary by caliber.

    3. Look for and polish any sharp corners that might damage your cases on bolt, extractor or feed ramps.
    The rim is smaller in diameter than the case wall so I don't see how a pass-through die would work. The die set would need to feed the rim up into a die smaller than the case wall then retract it. I might see if someone can build something custom but I'm back to the problem of likely stuck cases if I'm running them up into a die without being held by the rim securely for retraction. Interesting dies though - I didn't know such a thing existed.

    Regarding brands Buffalo uses starline. But if I make my own I can start with harder brass so that's good to know. I'd probably also try using 30 carbine as the donor brass as the rim is a lot closer in size to the 7.65 L. The wall is tapered but but I think people are working with it now for the caliber.

    For #3 I've examined the bolt and swapped around extractors and extractor springs (went with a much lighter one) with no luck. I started looking at the other reloads I deal with and all the guns I have deform rims - it seems the MAS-38 is just very picky. But I wonder if factory made brass would hold up better. The theory that the rims are soft as they are not work hardened is just a theory after all.

    On another board there was a guy who had this same problem and basically gave up on the gun itself. It's a lot of money for a gun with these kinds of headaches. But I find the MAS-38 to be cool as hell and it's a blast to shoot as it has so little recoil and has this tight feel. It's like a sewing machine. Just trying to minimize the time investment to shoot it.

    Again, thanks for the ideas.

  22. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by HomerTHX1138 View Post
    The rim is smaller in diameter than the case wall so I don't see how a pass-through die would work.
    I checked several references for this cartridge and none show different diameters for rim and base. According to these references, these dimension should be .336" or .337". A chamber cast would provide you with critical dimensions. I would also suggest you slug the barrel so you have the groove dimensions. This will help in selecting bullets of the correct diameter.

    I made up a spreadsheet showing dimensions of possible donor cartridges. Happy to send it to you if you would send me an email by PM.

    The .30 Carbine would need to be swaged from .354 to .337, but might produce very durable brass.

    This must be a fun gun to shoot. When in RVN in 1971, I saw a few that had been captured.

  23. #67
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    The rim is 8,50mm (.335") while the base ahead of the groove is 8,53mm (.336").

    kelt
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cotes 765 long.jpg  


  24. #68

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    PM sent.

    This is what I've been using:



    But given all these different sources I just pulled the Gevelot commercial box I have and measured 2 cartridges:

    rim: .333 - .334
    base: .335
    COAL: 1.191

    If a die got the rim to .335 that'd be OK too - shot rims end up .338 and more with high spots. .335 -should- fix the issue at hand and sit flat against the bolt face.

    Better yet: Gevelot get back to making ammo.

  25. #69

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    here's the ammo

  26. #70
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    If anyone is interested I have the French military specification for this cartridge. It is in French of course but I can supply a pdf copy of it to anyone who would like it. PM me with your email address.
    The Wizard
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  27. #71
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    Hello All,

    I purchased a 1935A pistol yesterday so naturally now Iím on the hunt for some 7.65x20mm ammo. Thatís why Iím bumping this fairly vintage thread back to the top. If anyone has a line on either surplus or reloads Iíd appreciate hearing about it. There are some on GB but I was hoping to stay somewhere south of $4 a round!

    Any assistance appreciated.
    -gonzo

    ** ISO ac42 mag #4848b, PPK mag #285129K-2, P38 IV box **

    "The best we can hope for concerning the people at large is that they be properly armed." --Alexander Hamilton, Federalist No. 69.

  28. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by gonzogeezer View Post
    Hello All,

    I purchased a 1935A pistol yesterday so naturally now Iím on the hunt for some 7.65x20mm ammo. Thatís why Iím bumping this fairly vintage thread back to the top. If anyone has a line on either surplus or reloads Iíd appreciate hearing about it. There are some on GB but I was hoping to stay somewhere south of $4 a round!

    Any assistance appreciated.
    Answering my own post (I should have finished my research before posting). Buffalo Arms says they will be doing a run of reman ammo soon. I went ahead and backordered some.
    -gonzo

    ** ISO ac42 mag #4848b, PPK mag #285129K-2, P38 IV box **

    "The best we can hope for concerning the people at large is that they be properly armed." --Alexander Hamilton, Federalist No. 69.

  29. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by gonzogeezer View Post
    Answering my own post (I should have finished my research before posting). Buffalo Arms says they will be doing a run of reman ammo soon. I went ahead and backordered some.
    Safe to assume these will be cut/resized cases from something else?

  30. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by NIU2009 View Post
    Safe to assume these will be cut/resized cases from something else?
    Yes, .32 S&W Long.
    This post contains the Amish virus. Since the Amish have no electricity or computers, you are on the honor system. Please delete all your files. Thank you

  31. #75
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    Ian over at Forgotten Weapons was looking into getting some 7.65 case made. Never heard how far that project got.
    The Wizard
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  32. #76
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    I saw that video as well. Ian said he thought Starline might make some. Bertram has made them as well, Grafs has them for sale...pricey, thoí.
    -gonzo

    ** ISO ac42 mag #4848b, PPK mag #285129K-2, P38 IV box **

    "The best we can hope for concerning the people at large is that they be properly armed." --Alexander Hamilton, Federalist No. 69.

  33. #77
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    I just purchased a 1935S MAC pistol. Does anyone have accurate dimensions for the 7.65 Longue cartridge? I have a lathe and have made up a single piece of brass from a 32 H&R cartridge. I'm a little concerned about the rim thickness. Donnelly lists it as 0.046", which seems awfully thick. The only commercial source I have found is Bertram brass from Graf's, which is VERY expensive. They list Starline brass, but it is "out of stock". Anybody know of any other sources for brass?

  34. #78
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    There is a member here I think hughlong who has placed a large order with starline and has been looking for people to buy in I think just search starline and he will pop up I think his last post was yesterday.

  35. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz1255 View Post
    I just purchased a 1935S MAC pistol. Does anyone have accurate dimensions for the 7.65 Longue cartridge? I have a lathe and have made up a single piece of brass from a 32 H&R cartridge. I'm a little concerned about the rim thickness. Donnelly lists it as 0.046", which seems awfully thick. The only commercial source I have found is Bertram brass from Graf's, which is VERY expensive. They list Starline brass, but it is "out of stock". Anybody know of any other sources for brass?
    PM me and I'll send you so much information on the 7,65 mm Longue who won't know what to do with it.
    The Wizard
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    Necat Omnes! Deus Suos Agnoscet.
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    PM sent, Wizard!

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    Please contact the member via PM or on the WTS / WTT forum for pricing and where to send the funds to


    I know this is stuff people have been waiting for but we can not break the rules of the boards or this forum with pricing information as this could lead to other rules being broken by people saying, well you let this happen here or here and why you only enforce certain rules when it is convenient.

    Patrick
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    Last edited by 1886lebel; 08-05-2019 at 11:55 AM.

  38. #82
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    Starline shows the brass on their website under "What's New".

  39. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by butcharoot View Post
    Starline shows the brass on their website under "What's New".
    Shows back ordered, available 8/12.
    This post contains the Amish virus. Since the Amish have no electricity or computers, you are on the honor system. Please delete all your files. Thank you

  40. #84
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    Hello all. I ordered a box from Starline, and it arrived today. It is beautiful stuff, and is head stamped 7.65 FL with the two stars and line logo.

    Woo Hoo! No more machining .32 S&W Long, and hopefully more folks will develop loads and create demand for appropriate projectiles. I have been playing with various loads and bullets for fun, and still haven't been able to replicate the velocities quoted as normal for this round without case deformation. i will have to re-do some of those to see how this new commercial brass holds up - maybe I will start by sectioning one to compare with the wall thicknesses I got from machining Starline's .32 S&W Long.

    My findings so far boil down to several thousandths of an inch case head expansion with new brass at muzzle velocities around 1000 ft/s, with the first measurable stretching starting at about 850 ft/s. I am using a Nazi-stamped SACM 1935A, and got it to function properly at these velocities for a few different projectiles:

    Above 975 ft/s w/ 85 gn 0.312" gives full function
    Above 940 ft/s w/ 90 gn 0.309" gives full function
    Above 900 ft/s w/ 100 gn 0.312" gives full function

    These are all pretty soft shooting, though definitely spunkier than .32 ACP. I have tried Bullseye, Unique, Titegroup, HP38, and Blue Dot. Projectiles were all jacketed and 85, 90, or 100 gn from Hornady, Rainier, and Sierra in a couple of different basic diameters but also with some swaging to intermediate sizes . I have plotted velocities, charges, case stretching measured a couple of ways, etc. and gained a new appreciation for those persistent folks that develop ammunition! Lots of parameters to chase, to say the least.

    In due course I will get around to feeding my MAC 1935S some of the more promising loads, and as other projects allow, building at least one semi-auto MAS 38 from the collection of parts I have gathered before they dry up completely.

    Looking forward to hearing more about loading for this round, and the guns that use it.

  41. #85
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    Looking for Lee dies. If anyone has a set or knows where to get them, please pm me. Thanks, Dan
    "Shoot straight you bastards! Don't make a mess of it!"

    Lt. Harry "Breaker" Morant, February 27, 1902, Pretoria, South Africa.

  42. #86
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,940

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    Contact MrLupin on this forum. He has the contacts with Lee and has been selling the die sets for the 7.65 to people here.

  43. #87
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    S E AZ desert
    Posts
    524

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    About reloading dies:
    My new Starline cases are manufactured to use .311" or .312" bullets, a .309" bullet is a slip fit in a new case. For those planning to use .308/309" bullets the cases must be resized in order to hold the bullet. The Lee sizer die set is probably the easy (but not cheap) way to go for this.
    Since my groove diameter is .312, that is the size bullet I am using and the 32 ACP die set works well, only problem is the shell holder. Redding states that their #14 shell holder for the 22 Hornet also works for the 7.65 MAS; I am using an RCBS #12 SH for 22 Hornet with a modification- I added a bevel to the upper side that allows the case to seat low enough for the base to contact the shell holder for full support in resizing.
    Now if I can only find were that pic disappeared to...

  44. #88
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    S E AZ desert
    Posts
    524

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    Modified RCBS shell holder, I trimmed it w/ a lathe but it can also be dome w/ a dremel or small grind stone on a drill. The Redding may be perfect already but I have never seen one in the flesh.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sh 002.JPG  


  45. #89
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    140

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    I have found my RCBS dies and the box had a shellholder in it! Too bad I sold my 35a.

  46. #90
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    6

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoTimeLikeNow View Post
    Hello all. I ordered a box from Starline, and it arrived today. It is beautiful stuff, and is head stamped 7.65 FL with the two stars and line logo.

    Woo Hoo! No more machining .32 S&W Long, and hopefully more folks will develop loads and create demand for appropriate projectiles. I have been playing with various loads and bullets for fun, and still haven't been able to replicate the velocities quoted as normal for this round without case deformation. i will have to re-do some of those to see how this new commercial brass holds up - maybe I will start by sectioning one to compare with the wall thicknesses I got from machining Starline's .32 S&W Long.

    My findings so far boil down to several thousandths of an inch case head expansion with new brass at muzzle velocities around 1000 ft/s, with the first measurable stretching starting at about 850 ft/s. I am using a Nazi-stamped SACM 1935A, and got it to function properly at these velocities for a few different projectiles:

    Above 975 ft/s w/ 85 gn 0.312" gives full function
    Above 940 ft/s w/ 90 gn 0.309" gives full function
    Above 900 ft/s w/ 100 gn 0.312" gives full function

    These are all pretty soft shooting, though definitely spunkier than .32 ACP. I have tried Bullseye, Unique, Titegroup, HP38, and Blue Dot. Projectiles were all jacketed and 85, 90, or 100 gn from Hornady, Rainier, and Sierra in a couple of different basic diameters but also with some swaging to intermediate sizes . I have plotted velocities, charges, case stretching measured a couple of ways, etc. and gained a new appreciation for those persistent folks that develop ammunition! Lots of parameters to chase, to say the least.

    In due course I will get around to feeding my MAC 1935S some of the more promising loads, and as other projects allow, building at least one semi-auto MAS 38 from the collection of parts I have gathered before they dry up completely.

    Looking forward to hearing more about loading for this round, and the guns that use it.
    I have a pistol that was my moms. Startline Brass.
    I have a RCBS 98 SWC
    And Mihec 32 77 solid 63 HP have no cast with it yet but that is what it says
    Published Loads I have are:
    Cast 78 5 Grains of Blue Dot
    90 Cast 2.3 Bulleye
    86 JSP 3.7 Unique
    98 Cast 3.4 WW231
    90 FMJ 4.8 Blue Dot I think this is a miss print and is the Hornady 90 grain 30 Cal XTP .309" there is also a U-Tube of this.
    My questions are has anyone else loaded this cartridge with Cast? If so what were your Loads and OAL

    Bullet size? I have .309 and .311 Bullet Size Dies

    I have biotha RCBS and Lee Shell holders and was going to resize the new Starline Brass.

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